Hike #908; Pawling/Wingdale to Sherman

Hike #908; Pawling/Wingdale NY to Sherman CT

1/9/16 Pawling/Wingdale NY to Sherman CT with James Quinn, Daniel Yu, Jennifer Berndt, Jenny Tull, Dan Asnis, Bijoy Mechery, Terri Allen, Edward DiSalvo, Doug DeGroff, Danielle King, Carolyn King, and Jim “Uncle Soup” Campbell

Hiking the AT north of Pawling NY

This next hike would be yet another big milestone for myself and the group. On this date we would add a sixth state to the list of ones we have collectively explored: Connecticut.
Of course, I could have reached Connecticut long ago had that been my priority. I could have been into Massachusetts or New Hampshire by now, but I was working on the NJ Perimeter series, and other things I deemed more interesting than trying to just follow the overly popular Appalachian Trail through.
I had been gradually working on connecting this direction. We had done a section on the AT between Pawling and Stormville in November, and a year prior to that we had done between Stormville and Fahnestock State Park. It was a while before that we had connected to Bear Mountain.
So, it’s been gradually getting done, but hikes strictly on the Appalachian Trail are not of much interest to me. This one was no exception.
For this hike, only about half of it was on the Appalachian Trail. I had decided we’d just make it over the Connecticut border, but that the rest of the hike would be exploring the vast Pawling Nature Reserve, a property of The Nature Conservancy. There are several loop trails, and I came up with an unconventional route I think looked like a winner.

Swamp River Boardwalk

We met at our end point, a parking area off of CT Rt 55 just over the state line. I had carpooled up with Dan from Riverdale area. From there, we shuttled in a few cars to our start point, the parking area for the Appalachian Trail along NY Rt 22 just north of Pawling, the spot where we picked up the Appalachian Trail on the previous hike.
Along the highway, there was a very old road sign erected by the New York/New Jersey Trail Conference stating that the Appalachian Trail crosses “near here”.
We walked to the AT just south of the parking, and headed southbound briefly to connect with where we had been, at the Appalachian Trail train station. We then walked together for a brief out and back to see the lovely Swamp River Boardwalk. I told everyone about the importance of fens and the filtration of wetlands seen so well here.

Appalachian Trail passing the old water tower

We continued on the boardwalk only to benches with “Maine” and “Georgia” written on them, where we had a good view of the wetlands, then turned back the way we came to cross Rt 22. Beyond, the trail went across open fields, which I always like. It gives the trail a lot more character.

Stile on the AT in Pawling Nature Reserve

After crossing Rt 22, the AT ascended slightly through fields, and then crossed over Hurd’s Corner Road, which was the older original route 22 alignment from many years ago. We crossed a stile there into pastures occupied by cows to the south of us.
Stiles are structures created that people can walk over, but that livestock can’t get across.
The trail was well delineated by use, so we simply followed it with occasional posts up through the fields. There was an historic old water tower that had been refurbished in more recent years just to the north of the trail as we went by.
The trail continued through mostly fields, over more stiles, and crossed a small creek.

AT in Pawling Nature Reserve

There were widespread views as we gained elevation in the fields, with Corbin Hill to the west.
We didn’t stay on the Appalachian Trail for too long. We followed it through the field sections, and then when we reached the first wooded section at the base of Hammersly Ridge, we connected to the Blue Trail of Pawling Nature Reserve, or one of them anyway, and turned to the left.
The other trails in Pawling Nature Reserve were marked with those horrible large plastic markers with arrows on them. Occasionally there would be paint blazes, with turn blazes at necessary points, but it was not utilized enough.

View toward Corbin Hill from the AT in Pawling Nature Reserve

The Nature Conservancy used some of these arrow markers in White Lake Natural Resource Area in New Jersey, where I used to live at one point, when I had marked all of the other trails correctly to standard.
I suppose as far as arrow markers are concerned, they are oriented in such a way that they can be turned whatever direction they need to be, but the truth is people tend to take turns more easily when they see a double blaze as opposed to arrows. If that weren’t enough, they also hammered many of the blazes completely into the trees, and they were dangling and falling off in many places.
Although I have been averse to The Nature Conservancy’s land management ethics at many places in New Jersey, I must say that Pawling Nature Reserve, aside from the trail blazing, was rather excellently maintained.

Blue Trail, Pawling Nature Reserve

The trails were kept open and structures were as good as anything I do through Metrotrails or the state. Some of it was over the top better.
I was particularly impressed as we reached Hurd’s Corner Road on the Blue Trail, that there was a nice puncheon, with cut scrap pieces to the right. It appeared as though they had milled the pieces necessary for this construction right on site! I was very impressed. The boards, as one can see in the photo, are not all perfectly even because they used raw material on site. A lot of credit is due there, and it goes to show that an organization is only as good as the Stewards running it.

Whoaaa dude surfer horse

We turned right on Hurd’s Corner Road, again the former Rt 22, and turned right.
Rather than loop and double back on the trails, I deemed the roads interesting enough to walk when I went over the maps, and by walking some of them we could reach the south side of Wingdale and visit Ben's Deli along the way, since there were no other food stops on this one.
We followed this road past a little horse farm, with one of those blonde surfer looking horses, a lovely little pond, and a brook, then reached the main Rt 22. From here, we simply crossed and continued on Old Rt 22 on the other side.

The Old Rt 22 on the west side was even less used than the section on the east side, so it made for a really nice walking route.
We emerged soon from the Old 22 route to the main new one, but didn’t have to walk the pavement for very long at all. A small side road went to the left, in front of an area of self storage buildings. We were able to just walk along the pleasant grass access road to the north, right into the town of Wingdale, where Ben’s Deli was just ahead on the left.
There was quite a bit more to the town than what we saw; we just got to a point where the town name was on one of those old metal signs, with two benches sat out.

Visiting Ben's Deli

We all went into Ben’s Deli for food and drinks. I love New York, because you can get beer and such at just about any little store. I didn’t really need anything though, because Jillane had given me a beer from her friend at work. It just ended up being the most carbonated thing I have ever had in my life. When it was actually potable it was good, and it had a picture of a kitty on it which made it all that much better.
I got myself a breakfast sandwich at the establishment, and was quite happy I did so. It was absolutely delicious. I walked back in to announce “Well that was terrific!” while James was checking out. Both he and the poor girl behind the counter thought I said “Horrific”, to which I had to explain. We hung out here for a while, for a good break before moving on.

Entance to Orange Trail in Pawling Nature Reserve from Wingdale

Just north of where we were (which we saw from the road driving there) was the old Wingdale State Hospital. I had hoped we’d end up walking closer to it, but it wasn’t the case. I’d like to go back and have a closer look.
Built in 1924 and originally intended as a jail, it was repurposed immediately as a state psychiatric hospital. It’s expansive grounds remind me of that of Greystone in NJ before it was demolished. Efforts to repurpose it were not fruitful, and now Olivet University has purchased the grounds and lands for potential use as a college. Many doubt that the site can be used because the buildings are full of asbestos. They certainly look strong.

Harlem Valley from Hammersly Ridge

We continued from the deli across the street to Furlong Road. At the intersection of Furlong and Sprague Road, the Orange Trail of Pawling Nature Reserve begins by going up steps and skirting a meadow as it heads up hill.
This is kind of a neat little connection to the town via trail, and there is no parking anywhere.
I thought this one was totally strange because it seemed as though the entire trail was raked or leaf blown. Not even the AT looked so over the top groomed. We followed the trail up hill to other trail intersections. A green trail led to the left, a main through route to the Appalachian Trail, but we turned right on the Orange Trail and continued up hill.

Harlem Valley from Hammersly Ridge

The Orange Trail climbed further, and just as it leveled off, another branch of it turned to the right. We followed this to the overlook of the Harlem Valley.
We could see the large white storage buildings far below, that we had just walked past maybe an hour earlier.
Beyond, I thought it was really cool how I could see the Swamp River snaking it’s way through the expansive wetlands.
We waited here for everyone to catch up, and got a group shot at the overlook. This would be the best one of the day, from atop the Hammersly Ridge.
We continued from here along the Orange Trail, now heading to the south.

View of Harlem Valley from Hammersly Ridge

We continued south on the Orange Trail until it intersected with the Green Trail we had seen a bit earlier. We then continued south on that, which took us to the Appalachian Trail near the very center of Pawling Nature Reserve.

Green Trail AT intersection with train schedule

Now, the Green Trail makes the most direct connection from the Appalachian Trail to Wingdale, and I found it quite interesting that the trail intersection included a train schedule for those wishing to use it! Ed joked that those coming from the south would probably sit at the trail intersection waiting for the train to pick them up there.
We turned left on the AT very briefly, then turned right again on the Red Trail. Immediately, it went onto a long wooden puncheon across a somewhat wet area.
One of the things that really surprised me about Pawling Nature Reserve was the sort of over use of puncheons. There were quite a lot there, but it’s good because they are protecting the environmental resource.

Red Trail in Pawling Nature Reserve

As we followed the Red Trail, there was a nice seasonal view out into Deuel Hollow to the west. We continued to lose elevation gradually heading south, and at one point when Jen was ahead she lost the trail. It just goes to show that the red arrow markers did not do the job as well as the double turn blazes most are accustomed to following.
We continued on the Red Trail to the Yellow Trail (I wish these trails had real names rather than generic colors) and turned to the left. This took us across a nice little bridge over a tributary to Deuel Hollow Brook. We re grouped once more near a cliff with a lovely little waterfall.

Little falls in Deuel Hollow

There was a tiny bit of snow and ice on the ground in the area, so we had to be careful near the cliff edge. Otherwise walking was pretty easy, and overall relaxing. From the falls, we continued on the Yellow Trail gradually down hill to a parking area on Duell Hollow Road. Just below the trail, along Deuel Hollow Brook, there was an old masonry foundation and circular section that was probably once either a silo or a water tower.
I did not realize that Duell Hollow Road would be a dirt road, so I was quite happy when we reached it and started following it to the west. I figured this would be a good route to make a longer loop for Pawling Nature Reserve than just zig zagging on the other trails.

Quaker Lake Road.

The road changed names along the way to Quaker Lake Road, and only passed one residence as I recall. There were very few cars the entire time, so it was like being on a multi use trail.
There were a few more buildings, a couple of them that looked abandoned, as we headed toward Quaker Lake. The area around the lake was certainly not abandoned, just closed up for the Winter.
There were boats and a little boat house, and a parking area, all private. It was quite a lovely little spot, with rock outcroppings along the edge of Quaker Lake. There was a thin layer of ice covering much of the lake, making it look very still and serene.

Quaker Lake

We continued along the road, which followed much of the shore of the lake heading southwest. At the end, it made a sharp bend, then headed slightly up hill past another lake spillway, this one for the smaller French Lake.

French Lake was more someone’s estate than a camp type surrounding, but was still very lovely. We continued on the road as it became paved, but then very shortly after we found the start of the Red Trail for Pawling Nature Reserve, so we turned right into the woods.

This one also had no parking, so they must intend for people to walk the road I imagine.

Red Trail in Pawling Nature Reserve

The Red Trail was something I’d never seen before anywhere. There was a puncheon right from the start, and it continued up hill as far as the eye could see. This apparently is to alleviate erosion on the mossy hillside. The entire thing was like steps up the hill. Quite amazing. We followed Red Trail to where the Blue Trail broke off to the left. It too had a section of puncheons that soon ended. Red Trail continued on them further up hill.

Haphazard bridge in Pawling Nature Reserve off official trail

The Blue Trail was quite nice and relaxing. It made it’s way mostly through woods, weaving around and passing through some old stone walls that were parts of pastures, on what would be the south side of Hammersly Ridge. We continued on the trail until it came out to the fields, which were just south of the ones we followed on the Appalachian Trail earlier. Rather than continue on the Blue Trail, my intent was to follow the fields back to exactly where we left the AT, as not to miss a section of it. We headed down hill, left the trail, although Ed spotted another blaze in an overgrown mess further down from the trail (must have been an older route of it), and to a field edge. There was a small trail to access a deer stand, and then I spotted a haphazard foot bridge made of two planks and plywood over a stream below. We had to fight through some briars, but got to the bridge and crossed.

Doug's new home

We were able to follow the fields on the other side with no problems at all and return to the AT, right where we left off. We then turned right to follow the trail northbound, with a climb up Hammersly Ridge.
This and the previous climb were the worst of the day, other than that most of it was actually very easy. Along the way, Doug found a little shelter someone had made just off the trail.
Even the Appalachian Trail section within Pawling Nature Reserve had tons of puncheons. We passed by springs and wetlands, gently weaving through some nice second growth mixed hardwood forest.

Appalachian Trail in Pawling Nature Reserve

We kept a pretty stable level of elevation it seemed, but I was very impressed passing though at how so many of the more than century old stone rows were still built on incredible slopes. The AT followed some short sections of former farm lanes through some of these woods.

Amazing old stone rows on the AT

There weren’t many signs of human occupation of any kind other than the stone rows through these sections. Naturally, when something is found out in the wilds, it seems so much more amazing.

An old dam ruin we found on the AT

We came at one point to within sight of a house below the trail, which was approaching the crossing of dirt based Leather Hill Road, a nice winding roadway. In this area, we found an old masonry dam purged out. Maybe it was a farm pond, maybe for a small mill, but I couldn’t find any remnant of where there would have been a waterwheel, unless it was an overshot using a trough.
I chatted with Danielle for a while in this section about all sorts of stuff, including deer management and coyotes, and she mentioned that her boyfriend was out hunting coyotes recently. I didn’t put it together until much later, but she was referring to one of the state park police officers I work with, who told me his girlfriend might like to join the hikes, so I gave him my card on the First Day Hike, 1/1/16. Small world!
Leather Hill Road had only one residence in view, with a couple of farm out buildings. We continued from here up over another hillside, with just a brief ascent, then descended to Wiley Shelter.
The shelter was an older one, built in 1940 by the Tramp and Trail Club. This was an early club that was active in places like Harriman State Park, which I read a lot about in the NYNJTC guide to that park.

Wiley Shelter

At this point, we were within two miles of the end, and it was quite early. We had made very good time all day, despite the two more substantial climbs and stopping for Brunch in Wingdale.
The shelter area had tent platforms, a privy, and one of those mini library things where people can take or leave books. The only one that I had any interest in was “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn”, which my grandfather read to me when I was little. I left a religious pamphlets I think Jen grabbed in Wingdale inside it.
We hung out a while longer, but it started getting cold. It was one of those days, where I was sweating profusely when going up hills, but freezing cold when we stopped. Just one of those sort of middle temperatures. For a while I’d wished I’d brought a lighter jacket, but then I got really cold and was thankful for the heavier one.

AT crossing Deuel Hollow Brook

We headed down hill from the shelter on a few switchbacks, passed a water pump with warnings of coliform, then crossed Duell HollowRoad.We ascended for a bit over a knoll, then descended and crossed Deuel Hollow Brook. I chatted with Uncle Soup as we began to close in on the end.
This was the farthest Uncle Soup had ever come for one of my hikes, which is pretty interesting considering this is one of the farthest I had ever come for these hikes!
We talked a bit about the Metrotrails non profit status, and what I want it to be.
Uncle Soup mentioned that he’s become sort of addicted to these hikes. He’s been coming out quite a lot lately, more so than in previous years, although he’s been coming out rather consistently since his first hike with us in January of 2007.

The group at the NY/CT line on the AT

After crossing Deuel Hollow Brook, we ascended slightly and crossed Hoyt Road. The trail turned to the right here and followed the road for a short time, then turned left into the woods. Even before getting to the woods, smart ass Ed was shouting out of the woods “I’M IN CONNECTICUT!”. Ed is always great to have around, ball busting and bring us more laughs.
Dan was still behind a bit, and the rest of us gathered at the state line to wait a bit, and get a photo. We were almost to the cars at this point.
This was quite another milestone for me; we had reached the sixth state, and this was also the farthest east point we had ever reached on any of my hikes.

NY/CT line on Rt 55 near the parking lot

We walked on through woods, weaving around a bit, and then got to the parking lot. Very little of the hike was actually in Connecticut, but I now have several more planned that will be entirely within that state.
The area we were in was known as “The Oblong”, where boundaries were in dispute for a long time between the two states. This also nearly finishes the NY section of the Appalachian Trail for me. There is a rerouted section on Bear Mountain I have not hiked since it was moved, and there is a shrot section after the Connecticut line that goes back into NY, then returns to Connecticut again. Once those sections are out of the way I’ll be finished.
We finished very very early, and I’d still get home before 7:30 pm, which is unheard of for a hike of this distance. Part of me wanted to continue on another two miles to get to the Herrick Trail intersection, which is part of one of the upcoming hikes I plan to do, but now that we’d gotten to the cars, I was good to be finished.
I walked from the parking lot a down to Rt 55, and turned left briefly to reach the state line on the road. I wanted some photos of the state line markers there as well. It was only just starting to set in, how this fits into all of the distance I’d done. I told myself I’d now walked continuously between Baltimore MD and Sherman, CT, and mostly not on the AT.

Fini

This was just another positive hike to add to the growing list for 2016. Every year seems to promise to be the best we’ve ever had as a group, and this one is certainly setting up for that. There are so many exciting things coming up, and we’re only just starting.