Hike #820; Phillipsburg to Merrill Creek

Hike #820; Phillipsburg to Merril Creek

1/1/15 Phillipsburg to Merril Creek Reservoir with Matthew Davis, Gregg Hudis, Jennifer Berndt, Michele Valerio, Paul Ferlazzo, Doug DeGroff, David "Captain Soup" Campbell, Erin Brandt, Manny Coelho, Amin Gangji, Alykhan Ganghi, Mike Daly, Ed DiSalvo, Gail Ingham, Amy Gilbert, Erik Rautenberg, Cynthia Patron, Tracey Comune,  William "Guillermo" Fabel, Larry Philips, John Kirk, Tamara Sapilak, and Ken Lidman.

The group in Mount Parnassus Cut

Our next hike would be a point to point between Phillipsburg NJ and Merril Creek Reservoir, and our annual "First Day Hike" hosted in partnership with the state of NJ.

I've been often asked lately why I "celebrate" New Years Day, or why I dislike Christmas and other holidays so much but not some others like New Years. I feel that the answer is quite simple: It is a holiday without obligation.

Everyone has the choice to or not to make a resolution. There is no pressure, and if someone asks "What is your New Years Resolution", and you have none, all the better because it means you are content enough with how your life is. Certainly, everyone has something they'd like to amend in their own lives. I have plenty. New Years is just a reminder that we can make a commitment to ourselves if we wish, to better our own lives. If not that, at least it's an excuse to have a nice party without obligation to buy or receive gifts or eat too much food.

In recent years, the hike has focused on areas around Spruce Run Recreation Area, and parcels assigned to it. I've used the Highlands Trail the past two years, heading both north and southbound from the recreation area, but this time I decided to use the Warren Highlands Trail, on which much state park land assigned to my Superintendent is also used.

Like last year, the state allowed me use of their fifteen passenger van from Liberty State Park. It's really cool that I can get paid to lead a hike like I always do anyway, and even have use of these great resources that make managing it so much better. Everyone commented on how I need that van for all of my hikes. I was able to head to Liberty State Park to pick the van up the week before, leave it at John Trontis's house nearby, and then pick it up for the hike. I'd also get to return the van the following week.

I met most of the group at Merril Creek Reservoir in the morning. We shuttled to our start point, the boat launch in Phillipsburg off of Union Square in the van, Matt's car, and one of the newcomer's cars. Larry and Ken met us there.

Once we were all together, we could move on with my planned route. I wanted to showcase not only the Warren Highlands Trail, but what it might be in the near future. There are proposals to turn one of the old rail trestles into a pedestrian bridge, which would become it's route, and more plans for the Morris Canal Greenway. I wanted to illustrate how some of these trails could come together as they are developed at the start, then head to the Warren Highlands Trail as it currently exists.

The hike had a strangeness about it to me. There were familiar places that had changed, much of which was through my own efforts. There was so much of my personal history embedded in the route, and still some new stuff. Even the group was comprised of ten newcomers and 13 who are already a part of my group. Things are always changing, but they're still the same places and I'm still doing the same things. Sometimes I wonder if it will be "the next generation", how many will come back and become some major part of the group, who will be regional people only, etc. Five of these were friends who have now been coming out for years, some were more recent members. It's really interesting to inject all of these people I've known into new situations with new people.

Along the Delaware

I started the group off by following the Delaware River downstream, below the Northampton Street Free Bridge. A trail is proposed to connect this point with the Morris Canal Arch, a stone archway situated at the base of Morris Canal Incined Plane #11 West, now owned by DEP. This would be the first bit of state land I'd utilize for the hike.

I had walked this section with the Mayor, Wyant of Phillipsburg, to talk about the proposed trail to the canal with the Municipal and Charitable Conservancy Trust Fund Commissioners. Hopefully we'll be able to develop the trail sooner than later, but it will be hard to keep sustainable. The river goes into flood level there, and will wash out the paths without doubt. Informal paths are now followed along the river from the boat launch. We made our way down to the canal arch and climbed to the top.

Canal arch at the base of Plane 11

I guided everyone to the top and gave a brief history of the Morris Canal, and talked about how the Delaware Canal, Lehigh Canal, and Morris Canal all came together at this point, and how a wooden dam in the Delaware provided needed slack water to pull boats over.

Historic view of Plane 11

I'd gone over this history so many times, but each time there is always someone new who knows little or nothing about it. Sometimes I forget how all of these places I know like the back of my hand are completely new to people I hike with. It makes me realize I do need to keep doing variations on stuff closer to home, because truly there is so much more that even I haven't seen locally to make it worth my while to do more.

Inclined Plane 11 West

We made our way down along the water, which was flowing under the canal arch, and followed along the former route of Plane 11. I climbed down on the rungs of the ladder and concrete structures that were built after the abandonment of the canal. No one followed me on that of course. I pointed out where the canal would have gone under the old Bel Del Railroad, and I couldn't quite find the tops of the footings. Matt was looking around too. It was great to have him back out with us again; he can answer so many questions and engage members of the group in historical topics in much the way I do, and in such a large group I don't get a chance to talk to everyone as much.

Top of plane 11 and the Bel Del Railroad underpass to the right.

We made our way through the hole in the fence into the riverside park, onto the paved pathway where the canal used to go. I pointed out where the toll collector's office would have been, and the canal basin. We weaved around on the paved path, leaving the canal, and I led everyone into the cut where the connection was made through Mount Parnassus between the former Lehigh Valley Railroad and the Belvidere and Delaware.

Mt. Parnassus Cut

We walked the old tracks a short distance to where the "path" led up hill to the top of Mount Parnassus. I gave people the option of going up or not. It's a steep climb. I explained how I felt the promontory with it's outstanding view should be open to public for it's scenery and interpretive value. Bill Hann, fellow commissioner with Matt and I, has said in the past how he agrees it should be something. My feeling is a set of stairs, probably metal in construction, could reach to the top. Better security at the site would be needed to manage it for pollution and graffiti. Most of the group followed me up, and we took in the great view.

View from Mount Parnassus

I pointed out to everyone that historic photos of the Morris Canal Basin were taken from this site, and many of the old industries in the area. I didn't have any of the photos with me, but I reminded them to remember whenever they saw them (In the past, we brought the Morris Canal book up with us).

Historic view from Mount Parnassus, after abandonment of the canal basin.

I gave everyone the option of going down the way they'd came, or down the "crazy way". In retrospect, perhaps the way we went down was the easier of the two ways, because the dead leaves on the slope the way we came up can make it particularly treacherous. I showed half the group down the steep way, where we swing onto a tree branch to guide us down the rocks. Once at the bottom, I could see Larry's orange hat coming toward us across the field. He had run late and I gave him directions on how to catch up with us. We continued into the Parnassus Cut and got our group shot before moving on.

I brought everyone back out to the former canal basin at the skate park, and we made our way through a cut in the fence to the former Lehigh Valley Railroad right of way. I opted not to show them the signal bridge since this was a "state" hike, and undoubtedly someone would not be able to resist the urge to climb on top of the thing (it probably would have been me). We turned right to follow the old LV right of way, and I explained how this might become part of the greenway, and in the future part of the Warren Highlands Trail if the pedestrian bridge were to cross on the former Lehigh Valley Railroad bridge.

We turned off the the rail bed soon, and made our way onto Main Street. I brought everyone out to cross the South Main Street Bridge over the former Central Railroad of NJ and the former Morris and Essex Division of the Lackawanna Railroad at Union Station. I stopped at Union Station, spoke briefly about the Transportation Heritage Center that was sort of defunct, and told them the great work Ken and Anne Miller are doing to restore the station, and the other group on the Interlocking Tower to the east of us. We continued down the main street back toward Union Square, and stopped at the former Bel Del station, which has a store in it, to get food and drinks. Sadly, this was closed when we arrived, so we continued on.

My next plan was to share some history and perspective by utilizing the two bridges we could legally cross the Delaware on. We first crossed the Northampton Street Free Bridge (I checked with the guard first to make sure the 22 bridge was again open to pedestrians after recent work closures). We could see the canal arch and rail bridges to the left, and across the bridge we could see the newer bridge carrying Rt 22. On the other side, we followed the trail through Columbus Park along the river, passed the playground and amphitheater, and then passed beneath Rt 22 before ascending to the bridge.

Rt 22/Bushkill Street Bridge

There are a lot of stories I try to impart when it comes to interpretation at that bridge. The Northampton Street bridge has the older history, being the site of the second bridge to cross the Delaware, the covered one, and how the trollies crossed it. One of the first things is that 22 is actually "Bushkill Street Bridge". While on it, I point out how it lines up with Bushkill Street, and there's a weird turn now for the higher Rt 22.

Construction of Bushkill Street Bridge

The roads were at lower level until the Flood of 1955. The Free Bridge was purged in the center, and although the "Bushkill Street Bridge" remained out of water, the road approaches on either side were completely submerged, making the bridge useless for emergency or any other purpose.

Commissioner Bill Hann explained to me that he was the last person to drive across it, and that his car barely made it through, with water coming in as he drove.

1955 Flood

We continued onto the bridge, which is always interesting to me. The walkway coming from the PA side is insanely narrow, and it doesn't even look like anything one would consider legal to cross because of it's width there. I had everyone get together at the first good vantage point where we could see where we were going: Marble Hill. I then went on to tell the story of Getter's Island.

Getters Island, Weygadts Gap, and Marble Hill

Getter was a man tried and sentenced to death for murdering his wife and throwing her into a nearby quarry when she became pregnant. He was a playboy of sorts, and was forced into marriage due to pregnancy. The high profile case was such that the island in the Delaware was chosen as the location for his public hanging. The bridge to the south and walkways along both sides of the Delaware was like a natural amphitheater. On first attempt, the rope broke, and much time was taken to gather a replacement. It took some time for Getter to die, and so the island was re-named for him. In later years, a failed steamboat experiment on the Delaware involved the explosion of the machine's boiler, and bodies of lifeless victims of the accident were thrown onto the island and adjacent river. The island has a bloody history indeed.

We crossed the bridge and descended to the road walk section of the Warren Highlands Trail. We followed it to the north along North Main Street/River Road, and I had everyone stop when we got to the giant pipe. I figured I'd give everyone the option of either going through or walking around. Surprisingly, everyone was down for going through the thing, so we continued on. Everyone seemed to love it.

The long tall pipe emerged along the Delaware, and we turned right to follow the river  up stream. Only the dogs brought by the newcomers had any apprehension about the pipe. We made our way to the more level open area with the giant Silver Maples, and then turned right to cross the former Bel Del tracks. We then got on the Warren Highlands Trail ascending Marble Hill.

We continued gradually up hill, and turned right on the orange blazed Iron Mine Trail. We followed this past the Fulmer mining ruins, and then reached the Fulmer Mine itself to take a break. I still can't believe I'm responsible for the development of this property. People are going there following routes I chose and marked, and in many cases cut and cleared.

View on Marble Hill

We continued from here along the trail to where it re joins the Warren Highlands Trail. I brought everyone back a short distance to the overlook before continuing on the trail east. We passed by the yellow trail (and of course Assouptions were made, with Captain Soup going ahead the wrong way/best way according to him). We passed the Lopatcong Connector Trail and got on the section of path I cut myself over a few months. I need to get back in there and cut more of it back open, but at least it was rather easy to follow.

The trail passed the giant trees and emerged on the woods road section leading to the power line cut where we re grouped again. One of our newcomers opted to cut out early, and apparently went down the wrong path to Marble Hill Road. We continued on along the trail, first on the woods road, then up on the foot path I'd cut to reach the old logging road which connects the top of the fields with Marble Hill Road. We re-grouped again at the top of the field with the views of Lopatcong and Harmony Township.

View in fields; Marble Hill

We had another nice break, a longer one so people could eat their lunches and such. We then made our way along the trail through fields down to Kelly Lane. I pointed out the old farm areas, and where the school house used to be, then descended to where the trail turns off of the road and along the fields to more woods. I had recently found out I need to move that section slightly, which I'll get to. Apparently the property corner, which is questionable anyway because it's only a PK nail in the old road, puts the trail a few feet onto private land. I'll have to get volunteers together to move some rocks in order to amend it. Anyway, we cut through the woods and emerged at Belvidere Road between the two houses. We turned left on the road section to the Geiger Tract, where Captain Soup again blew past the turn. We cut into the fields and followed the trail route along the side, then out through woods and across a stream to reach the Farmers Fairgrounds property.

We followed the edges of the fields out to Strykers Road, and then the group continued on even though I asked them to wait up there. Captain Soup again blew past a turn because it's not blazed yet in that section (LOL)! We turned right on Rt 519 for a short time, then went up the side road parallel with the Harkers Hollow golf course to reach the state land.

We had to climb over lots of rounds of wood blocking the state property; the golf course has an encroachment issue on the land there, and we have to work that out before I can formally develop the trail through that tract. This issue is one of the reasons why the trail has not been completed as of yet. We steeply ascended on the woods road, then turned hard right on another woods road. This led us to private land, which is still owned by the Shandor Family. We turned left on another route, then left again to ascend on a steep hill that goes up a little ridge with seasonal views both north and south.

Bob Shandor Chair

Bob Shandor's chair sits at the top of the precipice as a memorial to him. His ashes were spread at this point after his untimely death in 2008.

Shandor was my predecessor in the Warren County Board of Recreation Commission. He was known as a ball of fire who would give the Freeholders hell for open space policies.

I began attending public meetings while in High School, starting my involvement in local politics with Board of Education Meetings. I was Vice President of my Senior Class and learned to question any authority I disagreed with. My alternative ideas were considered controversial and were not welcomed by staff (I suggested once that the Football team not get their uniforms dry cleaned after every meet, and put that money toward other programs, practice in regular clothes. It was met immediately with opposition). I continued with community involvement with Washington Historical Society and START (Save The Area's Regional Theater).

My first Warren County meeting I attended was "Warren County Smart Growth" at Pequest Trout Hatchery. It was a public meeting meant to address concerns regarding the Highlands Legislation and "Building In Existing Centers". The presentation was as such that there was no public outcry. Certainly, they made everything sound good, and tried not to cause any concern. I was amazed how the public had no questions about colors shown on maps. Red was "planning area", green was "preservation area", and yellow was "transition area". My only question at that meeting was in regards to this yellow transition area, which was quite large (note that these areas are NOT the same as the Highlands planning and preservation areas currently on DEP sites). They explained that this was in transition from preservation area to planning area. This was cause for concern. All of a sudden, everyone's concerns grew. I had invited my old friend Lennie Hengst to the meeting, a very outspoken and passionate individual, and he happily took up much of the meeting's time when he was allowed to talk.

Where Lennie came across as a sort of scattered and over the top Warren County farm boy, Bob Shandor waited and listened. He spoke eloquently but with authority. I don't remember what he said, what he demanded, the terminology and government lingo were still too alien to me. All I know was that he made sense and uncovered what those who conducted the meeting didn't want to delve into. My grandfather was a good friend to him; I also remember going out in the field with him on several of the properties. He sent my grandfather quite a lot of survey work over the years. I remember answering the phone as a child at my grandfather's home office, and Shandor was a common name. My grandfather said my mom and aunts always liked him because he looked like Elvis Presley.

Shandor fought for open space regulation, and as I recall public rights to lands put into farmland preservation. During a Freeholder meeting in late 2008, all fired up and battling with the Freeholders again, Bob Shandor suffered a fatal heart attack. He has become somewhat of a local legend. I was appointed as his replacement in the Warren County Board of Recreation Commission as his successor in late 2009.

In the days prior to this trip, Matt Davis, Bill Hann, and I had a meeting with Bob Shandor Jr. about the property on which Shandor Sr.'s chair sits. I would like to use that tract as the Warren Highlands Trail. It simplifies the clearing work necessary, and puts the trail in a much more attractive location. We discussed putting the trail in, opening up an overlook where Shandor's Chair is, putting in a memorial, and naming it for the late Commissioner.

Bob Jr. told us that his father, at about age 13, ran up this mountain with a group of his friends to that very spot. He announced to his friends that he would one day own this tract, and he did. The property is now in the name of his widow, and we are going to work on plans to put the trail through this piece.

View on future Warren Highlands Trail

We took a break at the Shandor Trail before moving on. The woods road is very nice through there, weaving around a rock outcrop, and continuing out to the fields in what was known as the Stecker Tract. Stecker was one of Shandor's hunting buddies who owned the land, and he suggested the land be put in preservation because it fit in with the greenway.

Delaware Water Gap from Scotts Mountain on Warren Highlands Trail

The trail is a farm road route out along the fields, first to the right, then round a corner to the center of a field section. It cuts across the middle of the field with a view to the northwest of Blue Mountain in PA, and farmland in the foreground. It continues to follow another tree line, and then reaches an illegal hawk banding station.

The station is a wooden blind with a pole that is set up in front of it several feet away. The equipment I have seen installed, with chords reaching to the bottom of the building. There are no deals in place with the state of NJ, owners of this property, to maintain such a station, and all the equipment is consistent with what I've read about the process on line. I've researched work going on there, and all I found was something stating "off Fox Farm Road", which could be the Hawk Watch at Merril Creek.

Wind Gap from Warren Highlands Trail

The building and adjacent fields have the most outstanding view of the hike, the Delaware Water Gap and Kittatinny Ridge in clear, open view. It's always quite a site to see, and the property isn't even marked with state signs here so people would know they can go and see it. The property was posted, but within a week of the signs being put up, someone tore them all down. I predict we will have a problem with the trail going through here in the future.

We passed another view of Wind Gap further down the ridge before the farm road turns right out to Fox Farm Road. From here, the trail continues on Fox Farm Road out to Merril Creek Reservoir. There is a side road off of this which the Shandors maintain a sixty foot right of way on. We might be able to one day use this, but as of now it will just be the road. We turned right into the nature preserve and re-grouped at the parking lot. I met a few more people here and gave them Metrotrails business cards to join future hikes.

We followed the connector trail to the Perimeter Trail, the future Warren Highlands Trail route, and followed it to the north along the shore. The trail picks up an old road route, then heads across the third dam area. This is where one day I hope the Harmony Trail I proposed will break off. We crossed a parking lot with restrooms and took another break, then passed more views of Wind Gap from the higher elevation before crossing the spillway and another levee. We saw a lovely Bald Eagle from this vantage point as we continued along the trail beside the narrow finger of the reservoir where Merril Creek flows in.

Merril Creek Perimeter Trail

This is one of my favorite parts of the reservoir's preserve. The narrow foot path makes it's way along the shore, then picks up the old road route for a bit of time, from before the reservoir was completed. It turns away on a nice side hill footpath as the reservoir becomes the pleasant stony creek, and then crosses it on a little footbridge. I re-grouped everyone there, and some other public asked me about how to get back to the parking area. When I told them "I think use the yellow trail", they seemed a little irked that I didn't know exactly the route they wanted to take. I realized I was wearing my state jacket with the emblems on it, and they thought I worked there. I explained to them that I didn't know for sure, that was not the route I was taking. They made it back alright.

We continued on the shore line, with some great views of the reservoir from the meadow on the end of the inlet side.

Sunset at Merril Creek

We continued on the perimeter trail past the old lime kiln and ruins of the Cather Farm, where there are barn foundations, a dry former pond, and the old house foundation with spring house. The trail follows a nice boardwalk through this section. We continued along the shore line trail until we reached the Visitor's Center by the parking lot. It wasn't dark yet, and we'd made it back before they shut the gates (I'd arranged to have them re opened if they had to shut them on us previously).

I wish I'd not the responsibility of driving the van back to John T's house, and shuttling cars. A lot of the group went over to Gregg's house, but I just couldn't stay awake and started feeling sick. I'd only eaten some pizza.

The night before I'd attended a New Year's party at the Cordts' residence, and I hadn't gotten more than an hour of sleep. I felt very good the entire day until the end. I needed rest badly.

Somehow, I still managed to get to work the next day, and picked up the van from John's house. Of course, my Supervisor was not happy that I got paid to lead a hike without his knowing (he was absent and it was instead approved by the Superintendent). I couldn't wait to get out of there and home to rest more.

The way I was feeling got me really thinking that I should start eating better, trying to be healthier. My diet is terrible, and my doctor had just told me he wanted me to go on medication for high cholesterol. Ironically, I not only replaced Bob Shandor after his heart attack on Board of Recreation, I was also the replacement for Bill Pachanski at Spruce Run Recreation Area who suffered a similar fate. Maybe that should be my resolution.

Either way, 2015 started off on the right track, and promises to be an awesome year.