Hike #1376: 11/26-11/29/20 Pittsburgh PA to Weirton WV with Jillane Becker
This would be one of the most substantial hikes of my life for a multitude of reasons, many of which we wouldn't know for quite a while.
I once again had some more time off because of the pandemic craziness. There were all of these "work from home days" and I'd already finished all of my online training, so I could take more time off. Plus, if I needed a vacation day at work, I really didn't take any for the past year because of the pandemic, so I had a lot of it banked.
She had done and 5 multi day/backpack trips and 5 day hikes with me to get us this far, and we were only about three days walking to finish walking across the entire state together. It seemed like we should really go out and finish it. There were a lot of good trails through the area, and the Panhandle Trail led from close enough to Pittsburgh all the way into Weirton West Virginia on the Ohio border.
It wasn't that long before we had done a hike that finished in Pittsburgh, and then I did my own hike without her on the Great Allegheny Passage. I felt bad doing that because I told her it was high on my priority list, but she wasn't interested and told me to do it with my friends. When I did, she said she wouldn't go to Pittsburgh again.Fortunately, that attitude did not linger, and we were out in Pittsburgh staying at the Hampton Inn and Suites just north of The Point where the Monongahela River and the Allegheny River join to form the Ohio River.
DAY 1
We got up for our first day out and wandered through the streets of Pittsburgh. People were still wearing masks and behaving quite fearfully. It's pretty much just in the city that people are like that. Outside of there things get to be a bit more normal.
We meandered through the city a bit and made our way to Point State Park and the forer site of Fort Duquesne. We checked out the waterfront a little, and then made our way onto the Fort Pitt Bridge up to and across the Fort Pitt Bridge, one of the signature yellow bowstring arch bridges over the twin rivers.
Penn Lincoln Parkway crosses the Fort Pitt Bridge from Great Allegheny Passage in Pittsburgh PA.
The bridge was opened in 1959, and is the first double decker bow string arch bridge, as well as the first computer designed bowstring arch. It replaced the earlier Point Bridge.
We continued off the bridge to the west, and then headed over to the Duquesne Incline. I had already ridden it before, but I didn't want that to deter Jillane from trying it. It's really an amazing piece of history.
The funicular incline was built in 1877 to carry freight and later passengers to the top of Mount Washington. It was originally steam-powered, 800 ft long and 400 ft high, with 30 degree angle.
The popularity of the incline grew through the course of the 19th century, and soon inclines were built up and down the slope.
We crossed the pedestrian bridge up to the base of the plane, which historically would have traveled a bit further down, and paid our fare to the top.
It was a really nice ride, and we got off at the top and checked out the museum as well as the amazing view of the confluence of the rivers.
At this point, the Emerald View Trail makes its way down slope a bit. I had followed some of this with the group over the previous Summer, but never followed it through. It would work out perfectly as part of our connection to the west.
We went down hill slightly, then switched back to the left. The views were even better with less leaves, but the steep drop offs that much more unnerving.
The trail weaved around the north to the west side, and came to a power line opening that offered a nice view of the West End Bridge, another bowstring arch structure, across the Ohio River. It was completed in 1932.
We continued to the south, and the trail joined a private driveway briefly before crossing Greenleaf Street. When we were here over the Summer, we turned right at this point and walked to the West End Bridge. This time, Jillane and I continued on along the trail to the north.
It was a miracle we made any good time on this, because these slopes are littered with all sorts of antique bottles. Two centuries of them being lobbed off the hillsides from promontory homes leaves them often somewhat exposed due to constant sliding of the soft land.
The trail continued to the south and climbed a bit more to an open rock wall created I believe by quarrying over the years. I could sit right on the ridge, and there was a view out to the West End Bridge, and ahead at the little community of West End. It is situated along a tributary known as Sawmill Run.
I ran up and along the rock face to get a better photo, and almost slipped. That was a dangerous spot; a wrong step would mean the end.
We continued along the trail as it shifted from south to east, and there were some views through the trees including an abandoned railroad girder bridge over the Sawmill Run, formerly of the Pennsylvania and West Virginia Railway, now abandoned.
There was a sign along the path denoting the site of acid mine drainage.
The area today known as Mt Washington was originally known as Coal Hill, and was the birthplace of the bituminous coal industry. We made our way around to the east and came down to Shaler Street. Another trail had gone left, and the Emerald View Trail continued across I guess, but we turned to the right on Shaler Street.We crossed a bridge over Rt 19/Sawmill Run Blvd, and had a view to the east of a trestle on the former Wabash-Pittsburgh Terminal Railroad, and then we turned right on Wabash Street.
We followed the road to the end, and then there was a pedestrian bridge over the Saw Mill Creek that had signs for customers only, and fence work made to keep most anyone but pedestrian out. We crossed it anyway. Almost overhead was the abandoned trestle we had seen earlier from the former West Virginia and Pennsylvania Railway.
We continued west on Woodville Ave, and then reached the intersection with Greentree Road. There was something on google maps called China Street with basically nothing but some foundations or something, so we went to check it out.My plan was to go from here onto a road called Kearns Street, which becomes abandoned and is now a trail, and then head out ot the Wabash part of Pittsburgh to stay the night in one of the hotels in that area, but I noticed that the railraod track seems to disappear in that area. I assumed there would be a tunnel up in that area. Despite having some reservations about trying to use this, it turned out to be an interesting route we couldn't ignore.
At the end of the "China Street", there was a set of concrete steps. The google maps made it look like it was only a tiny distance to the tracks from here, but it was incredibly steep with a whole lot of abandoned concrete steps.
The steps used to climb up the slope and cross over the Wabash-Pittsburgh Terminal Railway on a foot bridge that is now long gone, and then climb up probably to Journal Street, but possibly also to Junius Street which used to be a through route but no longer is today.
Climbing these steps was no easy task. Some sections were very easy and in good shape, but others were missing the walkway sections entirely. We had to walk on the narrow footings for each area of steps. Because I saw the fate of some of the other steps, those with nothing beneath them left me inclined to stand only atop the footings anyway. They could likely break at any time.All of these stair systems are locally known as "City Stairs". There wasn't good public transportation between top and bottom of these hills except along the big rivers where the funiculars were, and so the stairways were used by workers in order to get to the mills where they were employed.
Near the top, when we got to the same level as the tracks, there was a fallen telegraph pole with some good intact insulators on them. I think I grabbed at least one. I also went to the top of the old bridge abutment where it would have gone over the tracks, and I could see the walkway complete with a metal hand railing still in existence on the other side.
We had a break here at the top, and then began following the tracks to the west.
My suspicion about their being a tunnel was correct. We soon came upon the Greentree Tunnel, built in 1903 for the Wabash-Pittsburgh Terminal Rail. At 4,225 feet long, this active tunnel was longer than the Oxford Tunnel, which is usually my personal gauge for a really damn long tunnel.
This one was of course not full of water, but it was active. There was plenty of room to get to the side if a train had come, but still I wanted to get through pretty quickly.
The tunnel had stalagmites of mud on the floor, which was pretty cool.
The other side is the approach to the Rook Yard in Greentree. The yard is named for Charles Alexander Rook, who was publisher of the Pittsburgh Dispatch Newspaper. He helped to ease the lobbying of the Pennsylvania Railroad against the Jay Gould railroad plan, which materialized as the Wabash-Pittsburgh Terminal Railroad.
A little ways out the west portal, we were able to bushwhack up to the right ot get out to Mansfield Drive, which was close enough to the Doubletree by Hilton.
We made our way uphill a bit and to the hotel and booked a room for the night.
I seem to recall we ordered pizza or something while we were there. There was no hotel restaurant, and with the pandemic crap ramping back up again, it was probably not going to be open if there was one.
DAY 2
I woke up early as I always do on these long trips, but unfortunately on this one there was no continental breakfast. All of these places at this time opt out and probably save a ton of money by simply offering a really crummy bag deal. The paper bag is sealed and would usually have an apple, a pastry, maybe a fruit bar or something, and some sort of juice container.
I thought to walk down the end of the parking area and bushwhack to the next little business lot, but it was too steep and full of thorns, so we headed down the road. I took a shortcut on the switchback of it a bit and Jillane went around.We then headed to the west on Mansfield Drive. We followed this to Noblestown Road where there was an old bank repurposed as something else, and the entrance to the Chartier's Cemetery of East Carnegie.
The entrance gate stone work read that it was established in 1861, but we observed grave stones older than that. Either the cemetery is actually an older burying ground before 1861, or some of the older graves were relocated. I couldn't initially find anything on it.
We walked to the top of the hill in the cemetery. I got to the very height of the land and got a nice view out to the west. We followed the cemetery roads to the east and then descended back toward Noblestown Road to cut out to the road again.
We ended up in a bit of a situation here because there was no way out of the corner of the fence. There was a fence that wasn't all that high, but it was a pain to get over with the full size packs. I didn't have the tent with me because we'd be doing hotel nights, but I still had a pretty full load in my regular backpacking pack.
We got over it eventually, and then continued on along Noblestown Road downhill and into the middle of the town of Carnegie PA, incorporated in 1894.
This town was once home to coal mines and steel workers. It was named for Andrew Carnegie after he donated one of his famed libraries to the town.
The town was really pretty cool; it had plenty of historic old buildings sometimes adorned with old painted advertisements
It had an old church, formerly a Presbyterian Church, and now the Attawheed Islamic Center.
We walked down Main Street through the town, then reached the Chartiers Creek bridge, which had tracks along it that we walked up to Mansfield Street, and then back down the other side back to Main I think it was. We then continued west a bit more and I think it was the Carnegie Mini Mart for drinks and snacks before moving on.
Across Main Street was the old Pennsylvania Railroad Panhandle Line, and this would be the subject of our hiking for the remainder of Pennsylvania.
The Panhandle line opened between Pittsburgh PA and Steubensville Ohio in 1865. It later became part of the Pennsylvania Railroad system with double track. Although it was a very busy line, it was scaled back and abandoned in segments. It was abandoned to Burgettstown in 1991, and to points east of there in 1995. There is still the segment just to the west of Carnegie to Walker's Mill with rails still in place, but that reportedly has not seen any traffic since 2017. The first section of trail opened up on the line in 2000.
I had thought that we might not get on it for the first bit, and have to follow parallel roads, but we were able to get on it pretty well.
The first bit was clear and easy. We followed it parallel with Main Street and across the intersection with Prestley Street where an abandoned spur came in from a business on the left, across Main Street and Robinson Run on a bridge on the other side. A utility pipe crossed an an adjacent separate bridge.
We continued as the line turned away from Main Street, and there were good ATV paths along the right side of it for walking. We then moved on ahead and passed beneath the Raymond B. Shafer Highway bridges. There was a memorial off the tracks to the right for someone named Tyler.
We crossed Robinson Run again just ahead, and there was a chain link fence blocking the railroad. It was cut open which made it easy for us to just walk on through.
We passed through some woods on a shelf, went under a bridge beneath Noblestown Road, and then crossed Dorrington Road in Ewingsville PA
We moved ahead past former industrial spur sites and reached yet another bridge over the Robinson Run. This one was a bit more difficult to go through. There were holes in the chain link fences that blocked either side, but they were a little harder to notice without being right up at them.A little ways ahead of that last crossing it got very badly overgrown. We had to bully through the weeds on the tracks worse than anywhere before, and they went up onto a bit of a fill. I recall we got off of the tracks altogether at one point and had to parallel.
There was a giant rock outcrop to the left of the tracks as we reached Walkers Mill area. A house was on the right that had extended its yard up over the tracks, so we had to dip down there anyway. Near the rock outcrop, the railroad bed became the driveway to the private home, which might have had something to do with an adjacent hunting club. I wanted to get out of there rather quickly.
We walked the road out to Walkers Mill Road, beyond which the Panhandle Trail officially starts.
Walkers Mill apparently was once a station stop, but I have no photos to show what it might have looked like.
There were a lot of people on this trail right away. The line had been double tracked, and the one track bed was now the crushed stone surface trail, but the other part was just a mowed grassy area. We crossed Robinson Run again on a bridge ahead, and then some former quarries lined the right side, in nice mowed areas with picnic benches. One of them had a great seating area and an impressive fire pit. There were stones from quarry blasts I assume that had names etched in them and dates including from 1928.
The Robinson Run was beside the south side of the rail bed and had some lovely spots with rocky cliffs.
There were other trails south of the railroad bed that ran parallel with the Robinson Run on the other side, and foot bridge across near an access point. We crossed Robinson Run again near the town of Rennerdale, and then again a short distance after that. We then left the park area, and the Robinson Run again in a more sparsely wooded area. This was once the area of a former Nike Missile base, and I understand there is now a road across in the area called Nike Site Road.
The rail bed turned into where both track beds were now trail. There was a new development going in to the left, and a paved side trail under development up to it.
The rail bed went into a cut ahead of here. On this line, there were several tunnels, but many of them were eliminated.
- Tunnel No. 7 at Bowerston
- Tunnel No. 6 at Fairplay
- Tunnel No. 5 at Broadacre
- Tunnel No. 4 at Reeds Mill
There has been some question as to which tunnels were daylighted or how they were eliminated. Apparently tunnels 4 through 7 were in Ohio, but the others were in Pennsylvania. I know where some of them, but not all of them were.
Primrose Station |
Those tunnels in Ohio were bypassed but still exist, but it makes sense that the same would have been done in Pennsylvania. What I read about it was that they were daylighted, but I'm not so sure. After posted the photos from this trip on the Metrotrails facebook page, Mark Petrishen sent me messages saying he felt the Pennsylvania tunnels might still exist. He may just be right. This spot could possibly have been one, but it wasn't all that deep.
The next little settlement was Gregg Station. Barely a couple of houses, and a grade crossing at Gregg Station Road. There was a spot near here for a former overpass, only abutments remaining.
We passed some sheep grazing, an abandoned house in a field, and what looked like a bituminous coal operation now overgrown to our left. We crossed Robinson Run yet again, and then reached the town of Oakdale. Oakdale was once home to a major TNT factory during World War I. The Aetna Chemical Plant in Oakdale exploded in 1918 and killed at least two hundred workers.
We took a little break at a pavilion sort of thing without a roof along the Robinson Run. Halecon Brewing was across the street, and so while Jillane took a break, I went over to see what kind of stuff they offered. It was actually all low ABV stuff so I wasn't interested in getting anything and headed back out.
The Robinson Run was much smaller in this area as we headed west, and it ran close to the north side of the rail bed. It crossed under us to the south side, then back to the north side again at Noblestown, almost the same town as Oakdale as it was almost seamless.
Next, we entered the settlement of Sturgeon. After we crossed Station Road, we headed west and walked into the sunset. We crossed Laurel Hill Road before reaching the town of McDonald where we would be staying the night. Somewhere in this area, the trail became paved.
At the parking lot was a replica of the Wilson Hill Covered Bridge, which the trail goes through, but the bridge doesn't span anything at all.
The original Wilson Mill bridge, a Kingpost truss built in 1889, was moved from the Wilson family farm in 1978 when the area was to be flooded for Cross Creek Lake. The bridge was vandalized and fire damaged in 2002, and was dismantled. It was considered too far gone to restore, so this replica was built in McDonald.
The station used to stand in this area, but is of course now long gone.
We walked to the right down McDonald Street into town, which was originally called Havelock Village.
Early in the trip, even when we were leaving Pittsburgh, I had to try to figure out how to book a room for the night in McDonald. Literally the only lodging available anywhere on the entire Panhandle Trail was the Caldwell House bed and breakfast.
Like most rail lines, there was a slow decline to this point, and by the 50s most of the coal had been worked out. The line remained in service until 1984.
A little past the McDonald Viaduct was the all new Southern Beltway Bridges, a new major limited access highway. It was not yet open, but it did open soon after we passed over it. For one day, just after completion, it was open for walking and biking. Unfortunately we didn't get to head out to do it, although I figured out a loop that would have worked for it.
Bulger Station |
Just past this site was an old railroad marker and picnic bench denoting the two counties and entering West Virginia.
This was a pretty special moment. We just finished walking the entire length of Pennsylvania, and both of us had done it (actually Jillane is missing like two miles within Pittsburgh, but we'll get to that).
Although we made it to this point, we weren't done for the day. We had to figure out where we were going to stay for the night, so we had to continue into West Virginia.
This wasn't four first time touching West Virginia. We had reached it on our Cumberland backpack, but only did a tiny bit there. It didn't really link to a trail that led us anywhere into that state at that point.
I was glad that the West Virginia side was not paved like Pennsylvania. It felt more rustic. They did have one of those stupid signs telling us to wear a mask outside, but no one in this area ever followed that for sure.
We wallked on through the little village of Colliers along the creek, crossed the creek and road, and headed west.
A road called Thompson Hill Road used to continue through to the north and to the Holiday Inn of Weirton, but I was worried about getting through in the dark, and also didn't want to head uphill. If we continued to the west, we would be able to get to downtown Weirton where google maps showed that there was a motel.
We passed beneath Colliers Way which would have been our road connection, and just went west.
The sound of the creek was really nice passing through here, and the light of the moon provided enough to cast a shadow. There was an abandoned spur bridge over the creek to the left we saw before we got to the last trail parking on the entire trail westbound. Eventually it'll continue through as this is part of the Great American Rail Trail, but it's a ways off before completion.We continued on under a large signal bridge with "Panhandle Trail" hanging on a sign from it. The trail did continue beyond to the west of this point, but even google maps did not show it going through.
I wans't going to worry about that at this point. We would get through one way or another.We continued on the trail ahead, beneath Rt 22 and its exit lanes, with Harmon Creek on our right, and the light of homes and businesses along the way making it lit up enough to see.
There was a sign for the end of the trail, and some sort of a fence, but we went right on through. This led us out to the active railroad yard, with some ambient light shining all around.
There was a nice new blue through truss bridge over the creek to the right, just along the edge of the rail yard. It looked like if we could just get across that, we would be in the town of Weirton.
There was a building to the left with bright lights and definitely cars parked, so we had to hurry over as not to be seen. It was dark, but still we wanted to get out of there.
We followed the tracks beyond the bridge out to Cove Road in Weirton, and it was a relief.
We made our way to a road to the right called Freedom Way, but the motel that was showing on Google Maps was closed indefinitely. In fact, Jillane went in, and it looked like it had been taken over by homeless people, and was a complete wreck.
We should have gone on up Thompson Hill like I was originally planning, because then at least we'd have something to jump off from, and maybe walk the next day, but it was too late to go back to that at this point. We had come too far beyond it.
I checked google street view, and it looked like there was no walkway over the Rt 22 bridge over the Ohio River. It was narrow and busy, and it would have been pretty dangerous for us to attempt to walk any of that.
The only other option, which we also should have taken, was the still active Panhandle Railroad bridge. It doesn't see that much traffic, but we didn't know it at the time.
Weirton was once a major industrial city. It started out with modest roots in the 1700 as Holliday's Cove. It was the site of Fort in 1774 constructed by soldiers from Pittsburgh's Fort Pitt. The area grew with an iron furnace early on, and more industry to follow culminating in the Weirton Steel Company. By 1940, it was the largest unincorporated city in America.
The Weir Cove area and other communities merged to form the City of Weirton soon after.
Jillane wandered around and checked out some abandoned buildings, and then we both got some Burger King which was right on the corner.
We got a taxi back to Pittsburgh and spent one more night out there to finish off the trip.
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