Hike #692; Bear Mountain Vicinity

 Hike #692; Bear Mountain Vicinity

3/30/13 Bear Mountain Area loop with Brad Anesi, Frank Meloi, Edo ?, Teun Ott, Michele Valerio, Jay Shah, Irina Kulikovskaya, Malcolm Preese, Theodore Wright, Stephen Argentina, Sue Bickford Martin, Betty Demers, Jaque Melo, Malcolm Preese, Laney Sazenski, Bernie Fitzsimmons, Dave Schreier, Julia Vogalsang, Fernando ?, Kelly ?,  Dan ?, and Chris Herbig.

Group shot on Popolopen Torne

Our next hike would be another connecting with our recent trips to Harriman and Bear Mountain State Parks. This one would be almost totally in Bear Mountain State Park, covering around 3000 feet of elevation over the three major peaks on the west side of the Hudson, Bald Mountain, Bear Mountain, and Popolopen Torne.

My friend Brad Anesi contacted me and asked if I had anything scheduled, and made the suggestion of trying to do these peaks in a day, with the addition of Anthony's Nose on the east side as well. I loved the idea, and we had already discussed doing this hike the last time we had been up there together. I told Brad to write it up and try to come up with 15 miles, and we'll go for it utilizing trails we had not yet covered and as well as other interesting spots.

We met at Fort Montgomery on the north side of Popolopen Creek, north of Bear Mountain at a parking area. Frank, Edo, and I had run a bit behind, and when we arrived, Brad was already moving the group across the road bridge from the overflow parking down to Fort Montgomery. We parked quickly and made our way over.

We started walking pretty promptly, and headed down hill past Fort Montgomery site. There were clear areas with old foundation ruins below the highway. We went down hill on the Twin Forts Trail. Fort Montgomery and Fort Clinton were on each side of Popolopen Creek during the Revolution.

The trail descended and crossed Popolopen Creek on an impressive long pedestrian bridge. We had great views of the Bear Mountain Bridge as well as Anthony's Nose, the last peak Brad proposed we scale up there.

On the other side, we passed Fort Clinton site and passed beneath the Bear Mountain Bridge, but then backtracked because the trail gate was closed. We ascended to Bear Mountain Bridge on the bypass trail, then crossed the highway to enter the Bear Mountain Zoo through which the Appalachian Trail passes. When we arrived, to our surprise, the zoo was closed and we had to wait like fifteen minutes to move on. Everyone had to use the restrooms it seemed anyway, and so we would have had to wait regardless. When the clock struck 10, we didn't bother to wait around for permission and followed a paved trail parallel with the AT through the zoo, then joined the AT. There were a lot of raptors in the place, including a Bald Eagle. We then passed fox and coyotes, as well as a tired bear in his cave.

Along this section, we also passed the lowest point on the entire Appalachian Trail, marked with a sign denoting it. We made our way from there on to the other side of the zoo and left the AT. We followed another trail through an area of rock outcroppings and markers, with some views of the Hudson. There was a nice Walt Witman statue followed by a picnic area. We went slightly off trail, and then out onto the Rt 202/9W south. We would have to walk a stretch of highway to get south to the Cornell Mine Trail. This trail cut over by the road, then up through a scenic gorge with some nice cascades. It then climbed gradually heading south.

As we neared Bald Mountain the western end of Dunderberg Mountain, the climb became quite steep. Still, we kept moving along at a good clip. Before reaching the top, some of us opted to go off trail and look for the Cornell Mines. This was actually pretty easy to find because of the tailings. When we found the main opening, it looked like an adit that could be walked straight back. Although it was full of water, I walked right in. Before getting too far out, Brad told me that the book said it dropped off at a steep angle really quick. I then turned back.

We bushwhacked to the top of Bald Mountain directly above us from there, which wasn't that far. The view from here was fantastic, with a great panoramic vista including the Bear Mountain, it's namesake bridge, Anthony's Nose, Black Mountain, West Mountain, and plenty more. We of course could see up the Hudson as well. It was a nice spot for a break, though it was very cold at the top compared to the way up.

Frank, Edo, and I fell behind on the way down. Michele might have too actually. We headed west on Ramapo Dunderberg Trail I think it was, down hill to an old woods road. I didn't know, but Brad cut a corner with the group while we continued on the regular trail to the next peak, and turned right on 1777 Trail. We were a bit behind, but we caught up. 1777 Trail followed an old woods road, passed a shelter and an old dam site, and then split into two. We took 1777 East Trail which became the old road into Doodletown, the community that was destroyed after the opening of the park. There were signs that denoted which buildings were there. There was also a more than 200 year old Sugar Maple tree along the road that was quite impressive.

Brad reminded us that we probably didn't have enough time to see all the sights in Doodletown if we were to continue with the hike, so we hurried along through there, and made our way to the carousel at Bear Mountain Inn area, at the end of 1777E. Herbig and Dan cut out there, and the rest of us had a break. There was an expensive hot dog stand opened which some people got stuff at. We moved on from there to follow along the edge of Hessian Lake on the Major Welch Trail. I'd never done the Major Welch, the steep trail ascending the north side of Bear Mountain. It started climbing, and was quite nice. Along the way up, we bumped into Chris Ingui and the Jolly Rovers Trail Crew.

I'd been following the amazing work of the Jolly Rovers on line for a while, and I'd met Chris when I was working for the Northern Region Office for NJ State Parks, and he was an NYNJTC employee. It's always nice to see dedicated trail workers while out on a hike.

We hurried on up the mountain, passing one fantastic view to the north up the Hudson along the way. The trail crossed over Perkins Memorial Drive and continued to climb to the top. It's almost disheartening to see a paved road after such a strenuous climb. The climb on Major Welch wasn't terribly steep, but it reminded me slightly of the climp up the east side of Slide Mountain in the Catskills. The approach to that mountain to the west is quite easy compared to the east face, south bound Long Path, and this was similar save for the road. It still breeds a slight disappointment when getting to the road, just as the Slide Mountain climb is disappointing when arrive and see all the people at the top who didn't experience the hell that was the east side.

Where the trail crests the mountain, it becomes like a city park with turnpiking work, heavily traveled. Honestly, Bear Mountain needed it. It's beaten down terribly by people wandering everywhere, and a well established turnpike trail keeps people in one spot and protects the more wild ambiance the area should have. The stone steps the AT use to the top are of course similar. Their width and construction were necessary in order to maintain the surroundings. I applaud the work immensely.

We visited the top of Bear Mountain, just a rock sticking up in the woods, then made our way to the overlook where everyone was sitting near the currently closed Perkins tower. We had a nice break and took some pictures before descending.

Brad took us on a blue blazed AT side path heading down, joined the AT, then descended on the nice stone steps down the southwest side. Narrower than the steps on the east side, it's really a nice route. The trail then turns left on abandoned Popolopen Drive. This earlier road that used to ascend Bear Mountain was abandoned probably around 1958 when the Palisades Interstate Parkway was completed.

We followed the joint AT/Popolopen Drive down hill to Perkins Memorial Drive, but then continued straight across to continue following the old road abandonment. It was pretty badly deteriorated at first, but then became very obviously the old highway. It was also quite obvious that really no one even walked it any more.

The road descended gradually on a nice shelf, and turned to the north a bit. Very nice stonework lined the sides and held up giant rocks from falling over the way. When we neared the current Palisades Parkway, Ted noticed a big rock laying on it's side to the left of us. It was full of reflective sorts of marbles that warned of dangerous curves ahead, probably from the original highway's construction. It was cool to see it still there.

The old highway soon came out into an open area, and we slid down hill to the Palisades Parkway, and when safe dashed across. It wasn't very far into the woods on the other side to Popolopen Gorge Trail, Timp Torne Trail, and I think 1779 Trail all co-aligned. We turned right on them above the Popolopen Creek by quite a bit.

The trail was soon aligned with a serious pipeline expansion project. It was pretty much a road. We could see old blazes below us at times, and how the original trail would have been a nice narrow foot path. It was sort of saddening to know that we wouldn't be able to see what the path used to be entirely.

The path turned left and right, away from the new pipeline at times, then right back to it.  I'd imagine over time some of these now redundant corners will be eliminated. Eventually, the trail turned off to the left and descended to the creek side, finally leaving the new pipeline. Popolopen Gorge was quite beautiful. We got to a foot bridge where both Timp Torne and 1779 Trails turned left, and we had to make a decision. I was pretty sure we wouldn't have time to do both Anthony's Nose and Popolopen Torne, the remaining peaks, and we took a vote on which ones we should try to do. Everyone said Popolopen Torne, so we crossed the bridge and began to ascend. After we crossed Mine Road, the ascent became very steep. 1779 Trail made it's way along the south side of Popolopen Creek, while Timp Torne Trail climbed to the top.

At times, there were hand holds necessary to get over some of the steeper parts. I loved this climb probably most of all of them. PT is really an interesting crag, with limited trees, and even from a distance it just stands out compared to other nearby peaks. The view of the Bear Mountain Bridge from the top is quite stunning, and one can tell that the trail doesn't get a fraction of the use that it's neighbors do. We took another break at the top, where there was some sort of army memorial set up by the kids at West Point just to the north.

We made our way down on the north side, then wrapped back around the Torne to the south to re-cross Mine Road and descend to Popolopen Gorge. We had the choice of going left on 1779 Trail, or turning right and then over Popolopen Creek, backtracking our original route (across a somewhat new bridge that replaced one that had just been destroyed) and rejoining Popolopen Gorge Trail. We turned left and continued on that trail all the way back to Fort Montgomery.

The creek was outstanding, with some nice seasonal swimming spots I can't wait to get back to. There was an outstanding old dam, and a site where a bridge used to cross the gorge below. There was also a deep swimming hole known as "Hell Hole". We just kept moving along this time. When we arrived at Rt 9W just below where the cars were, Brad was ready to continue across Bear Mountain Bridge and climb Anthony's Nose anyway. I was trying to convince myself to do it, but Frank and Edo wanted to get back. I did want to get home to Jillane as well, and so that convinced me not to make the steep climb up Anthony's Nose.

Brad hurried off across, and I think Julia went with him, followed by Jaque. Just as they were heading off, I could see the click in Jay, and he dashed off to join them in the final climb. They made their way up Anthony's Nose on the former abandoned Appalachian Trail route, very steeply, took in the sunset, and climbed back down the current AT route, and were finished by 9:30 pm. It was a good thing Jay went because he was the only one with a camera to mark the occasion.

It was nice to be done, even without the last ascent, this hike was a butt kicker...but I loved it, and needed it. I can't wait to get back up there and do the Anthony's Nose climb with Brad and the others, and explore more of the area. There's really so much to see!