Hike #592, Merril Creek and Harmony
10/22/11 Merril Creek/Harmony Loop with Al MacLennan, Jason Itell, Larry Butler, Jim Schlenker, David Alexander and his mom Vivian Lee Alexander, and ?
Access road along the pipe line on our way up Scotts Mountain
My next hike would be another loop in Warren County, this time not only to scout a bit more of the "Cross Warren Trail" as I like to call it, but also to showcase the Van Nest-Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead which is a proposed living historical farm on state property in Harmony Township.
I would meet in the morning at the Merril Creek visitor's center to begin the hike. We had three newcomers this time. David was a naturalist at Essex County Parks, and he brought his mom. Jim also had a friend along for the beginning of the hike who went on to do only the perimeter of the reservoir on his own.
Merril Creek Reservoir from the visitor's center
Merril Creek Reservoir
Merril Creek Reservoir
View from the main dam toward Stewartsville
View from the main dam
Lows Hollow from the main dam
Lows Hollow from the main dam
We first headed along the paved path with the light bollards to the visitor's center. Unfortunately, the place was closed down, didn't open till ten. We were forty five minutes too early. We wandered from here off the edge of the parking lot and down hill on the rugged perimeter trail descending to the foot bridge into the boat launch parking lot. We crossed, and from here the perimeter trail followed the edge of the reservoir on a gravel access road.
We made our way through meadows and woods, then across the first dike, through more woods, and then out onto the main dam.
From the main dame we could see somewhat of a view toward Stewartsville, as well as into Lows Hollow below. We crossed the main dam and then continued to the right onto a foot path following the shore. Jim's friend was falling a bit behind, so when we got to the point where we were going to cut away from the reservoir we waited up at a park bench. Jason and Larry were having an amusing heated debate about obesity and body mass index which was worth a few laughs.
We parted ways and began following the mowed trail out into the meadow and to the parking area for the trail system on Fox Farm Road. From here, we turned right and followed Fox Farm Road for a short distance.
Pipeline view, Harmony Twp.
Pipeline view
Pipeline view
Pipeline view
Pipeline view
We soon came to a pipeline right of way which crossed the road. There was a hunter preparing his stuff to leave, having just come out of the woods. I was apprehensive about walking by him at first, but eventually just wandered by and said hello on the way. The county knew I was doing this scouting hike anyway, but regardless there were plenty of people out there that had no clue, and may not necessarily be trail advocates. I wanted to watch myself.
We followed the pipeline right of way along the edge of a somewhat overgrown field on a vaguely cleared path to the right of it. This took us up to the crest of a hill where soon a view appeared out over Harmony Township, and far out into Pennsylvania. As we continued to descend, we could see more of Blue Mountain and the Northampton PA countryside pretty clearly.
The pipeline left the edge of the field and started descending rather steeply through the woods. We cut into the woods to the right for a bit because it was easier walking without tripping in the sometimes dense vegetation growing on the ground of the pipeline. I zig zagged back and forth to try to stay out of sight from any homes that we might be visible to.
The actual proposed trail route actually did not follow this pipeline, but rather comes onto the Merril Creek property by way of a dead end private road called Kline Lane. Research had showed that there was an easement or something across it. I looked at the map that was provided to me by county planner Dave Dech and knew this probably wouldn't fly with land owners having hikers coming down their lane, and so I proposed we follow close to the pipe line as to avoid the houses, and come out further along Kline Lane, and so this is what we scouted this time.
We descended and soon reached Kline Lane. There was a house just up the road to the north, but we turned left, to the south. There was some sort of horse farm or something on the left, but there was no home in sight, so we continued on out to Decker Road and turned right down hill.
Old woods road on Green Acres Land, Harmony Twp.
Decker Road changed names to Wester Road I guess, at a stop sign where a few private dead end lanes seemed to come together near a congregated section of homes. A few guys were out wandering around there places from back yard to back yard, and a dog, probably some sort of collie/sheltie type of thing started running around us playing.
We made our way down here rather steeply from here, and the dog stayed right with us.
Wester Road made a ninety degree angle turn and headed down hill further. It was in this area that new Green Acres property was on the left side of the road. A house on the corner where I thought the land was to be had a no trespassing sign at the bottom of their lawn, where it looked to be a woods road. I didn't try to go in there, and continued down hill. An old overgrown field was closer to the bottom, and that would be too tough to go through, so instead we turned into the woods to bushwhack for a bit. We made our way through some thick stuff, but then found a path. The dog stayed with us for some time. The path turned right, and although somewhat overgrown it led us out to a former field, where a travelling route was seen ahead. Fortunately, I spotted a woods road off to the left more. It was clear and wide, and made for very easy walking. This was where I wanted to be, a further section of the old woods road we had followed the last time I scouted this property.
The dog turned around somewhere in here, and ran back on the woods road in the opposite direction we were heading.
Building near Harkers Hollow
We made our way along the woods road for a while. Someone had been keeping it somewhat open because several logs were cut off of the path. There were still a few blow downs, but overall this would make the perfect trail infrastructure. Along the left side of the road was one of the largest and widest stone rows I'd seen.
The woods road had a few side paths, and I watched my GPS on my phone closely to figure out the way. There was one woods road that went down hill, and I though it might get to where I wanted to go more quickly, so we tried it out. It led down to the Harkers Hollow Golf Course, so we had to walk back up to the other path and continue up hill a bit.
We came to yet another old road that went down hill. Again, we tried to descend, but it led back out to the golf course shortly. This one however led to an above ground reservoir of some sort. There was a low building with a roof filled with water, and one large above ground tank with a ladder going up the side. I didn't feel like climbing it really, so we all turned around and headed back up the hill to the main woods road route I was familiar with.
New Green Acres Land near Harkers Hollow
We made our way further along the road, and we missed where I actually wanted to turn off. Since I'd already made two bad turns, when I got to the correct one I assumed I was wrong and continued. We ended up having to turn around and backtrack, then head down hill. We came out onto a driveway at a small farm type of property. We started walking down the driveway to where two sections of it converged. There was a guy coming by in a truck at this point. I walked down to let him know what we were doing.
He was a nice guy, smoking a cigarette, and laid back. I told him I was the Chairman of the Warren County Board of Recreation, and that I was scouting out the future route of the Cross Warren Trail but had come out a few hundred feet into the wrong spot. He laughed and said there were quite a few times he'd come out of the woods into the wrong spot too, which relieved me a bit. I told him a bit about the trail we envisioned, and I was again relieved that he was not against it. He even suggested a road close to the golf course would be good if we could get the permission for it.
Before we parted ways, I introduced myself, and he introduced himself as Mr. Donnelly. I was stunned for a second, and immediately remembered that my friend Don Donnelly who I worked at Hunterdon with for some time was from the area, and that his parents still lived there. I asked him if he was related to Don, and said "That's my son!". I immediately said "Don is a great guy!". I went on to tell him how he was the best employee we had at Hunterdon Parks while I worked there, and that I had nominated him for employee of the year (which he got). He told me "Don't give him too big a head, I gotta deal with him!". We chatted a bit more, and he told me he would tell Don he met me.
Brook in Harkers Hollow
The rest of us headed down hill to Uniontown Road and turned right. We followed this across the pretty little brook near the Farmers' Fair Grounds, and then made our way out to Rt 519 and turned right.
We walked past the Harkers Hollow Golf Course building and then continued to make a good lunch stop at the Harmony Spirits Deli and Liquor store. As I walked inside, I found that the place was now run by a guy I had known who used to work at Warren County liquors!
View across Harkers Hollow Golf Course
Nobody else really seemed interested in getting anything except ice cream bars. They sat out next to the store where there was a view of the mountain we'd just come off of beyond the golf course. I chatted with the guy who was running the place, and it turned out my brother Tea Biscuit had just been in there exchanging light beer for something better!
I got myself an italian sub sandwich and some Cream O Land chocolate milk. I was so happy to see they carried it by the quart, and commented that the Lehigh Valley Chocolate milk wasn't what it used to be, and now that was one of the brands I drank. A customer in there chimed in and said "Yeah! It's not as good any more!". I ended up in a chocolate milk discussion about how Cream O Land has sugar instead of High Fructose Corn Syrup and it's great, but when they changed Lehigh Valley, it wasn't as good. It now carried this "Tru Moo" label that so many other brands were part of, and I never liked those either.
View from Harmony elementary school toward Wind Gap
I stopped and talked to a guy that came by asking about a balloon festival going on. I did not know about one, but when he mentioned a pumpkin chucking thing, I remembered seeing signs on the road. I looked at his phone, found directions, and then guided him to the event he was looking for on Millbrook Road, near Broadway. We would actually see several balloons near the end of the hike later, in Merril Creek. After the hike I would also see the set up on my drive home.
We made our way from here on up Rt 519, using the frontage road briefly before cresting the hill in Harmony. There was a nice view out toward Wind Gap and the Blue Mountain from the crest of it. We then headed slightly down hill on the other side continuing ahead on 519.
Yard Sale along Rt 519
As we continued along, we came across a yard sale on the right side of the road. Of course, we had to take the time to stop and look around. Jason checked out some sort of weird grill, and I don't think anyone got anything there except for me. I picked out a cat photo album to give to Jillane, and although Jason spent a good amount of time looking at silverware and such, I don't think he bought any. Everyone else took advantage of the couches that read "free" on them next to the road for a comfortable break.
Harmony Church view toward Wind Gap
Harmony Church
Harmony Church cemetery
We continued down the road and soon came to the historic old Harmony Church. The church sat at a lovely spot with a nice view out toward Wind Gap and the Blue Mountain again. I had recently just done a tour of the place with Warren County's Municipal and Charitable Trust Fund Grant Committee, and it was impressive. The original church I think was 1803, but it burned down. The current one read "rebuilt" in the 1880s. During the tour, I was told a lot more data which was very interesting.
Looking at the front of the building, one would think the entire church was circa 1880s, but the front was an addition. I think I was told the main church structure was 1840s at the latest. The front section of it was an addition. It's obvious then looking at the outside because the tall windows are in sync with one another except for the ones in the front, which are unevenly spaced. Also, I was told the original sanctuary was at the level of the community room now on the bottom floor. The floor was added, which took height away from the sanctuary itself, and the front addition added a balcony. I was very impressed with the history.
One of the outstanding aspects was the story of the first minister. He was laid to rest in the cemetery in a spaced plot, but when the church wanted to build an addition, they had nowhere to go. Since there was space around the first minister's grave, they just built the addition over the grave! The guys at the congregation told me they could take me in to see it if I wanted to, but during the tour I didn't have the time. I was hoping someone would be around to show us when we walked by this time, but it didn't work out.
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Re enactors at Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
From the church, we continued walking along Rt 519. Along the way, I was walking on the pavement near Jason who was walking along the curb. He nearly stepped on a dead dog and went "Whoa!". I asked him if he could see the collar, to which he answered he just didn't want to be close to it any longer. After the others went by it, they told us that it was not a dog after all, but rather a dead Coyote! Wish I'd taken a better look.
We soon reached the Van Nest-Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead. There were cones in the road to slow traffic down and draw attention to the event. We entered the event, and there was a good showing. It might have been better had it not been a somewhat cloudy day, but it was still nice.
This property was state park land, ironically under the jurisdiction of Spruce Run where I was now employed. I don't think anyone working there even knew anything was going on for this event. Not surprising, the park is in terrible shape. Volunteers kept this farmstead looking incredible. The property was preserved by a dedicated group of Harmony Twp. historians and others locally, and they had received money from Warren Co's Municipal and Charitable Conservancy Trust Fund as well. The farmstead consists of the homestead, a sort of spring kitchen, a large unique barn, a smaller barn, and two very small barns close to the highway. Their current project was to move the two small barns away from Rt 519 because one was in the right of way of the highway. We had at this time voted to fund it partially.
I started out by going into the main homestead building. They were very friendly inside, and had displays of crafts and a spinning wheel, and they had the fire place burning. The guy inside showed me how the local Grange had donated ten grand to the building, which was great.
I made my way from here out to the Spring Kitchen area next. Girls inside were cooking up something that smelled pretty good. This building was supposed to be the next to be completely restored.
I then went to the tents to the left of the building, where re-enactors were working on stuff. There were four dressed up in period clothing, and I even recognized one from another local event, but I can't remember which one.
I worked my way back, and there was a gentleman making popcorn the old fashioned style, and putting on a pretty good show of it. I knew I recognized him right away but I couldn't place his face.
We watched his presentation, and I think most of us tried some of the popcorn which was pretty tasty. I got into a discussion with him, and before going I asked him where I knew him from. It turned out it was Mr. Bullivant, who I'd known for years. I had been good friends with his daughters Abbie and Amanda since high school, and more recently re-met and became friends with his youngest, Miranda.
We chatted for some time more, about my grandfather, because the Bullivants once lived across the street from him in Hampton, and lots more. I found out a couple more interesting things as well, including the fact that Mr. Bullivant was the first maintenance Supervisor at Spruce Run, and he had hired my current supervisor, and that he was the president of the Millbrook group that did the Millbrook Village events up at the Delaware Water Gap only a short distance from my current home! He offered to do a tour if I got a group together, which I might take him up on!
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
My group had dispersed somewhat, making their way over to the scenic little pond to the south, through buildings, and other spots. I also saw one of the members of the Municipal and Charitable committee and talked a bit, and at that time a guy came up to me and told us a history talk on barns was about to start at the main barn further back.
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead
I tried to round the group up and let them know we would be making our way back to the main barn. I also took the opportunity to tell them about the site, and what the plans were regarding trying to move buildings out of the highway right of way, and such.
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead barn
In the barn at Hoff Vanetta
Barn, Hoff Vanetta
Barn at Hoff Vanetta
Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead barn
We made our way back to the large barn, which I had also toured before. A great job was done at replacing the awful old wood that couldn't be saved, but they went as far as to cutting these pieces at points and attaching new wood only where absolutely necessary. They pretty much replaced the lumber on one side, and repaired a deteriorating foundation that was causing the building to collapse.
When we walked in, the history talk was already going on and there were more people there than they had anticipated, because the hay bails laid out were already taken as seats and many people were across the center of the barn standing.
The guy talked about Pennsylvania style barns, and the different types. He showed pictures of a lot of somewhat local ones and explained what each kind were called. He also mentioned the one we were in was one of the nicest he'd seen of it's kind. My understanding was that this barn was very unique, and I wanted to hear more about it, but everyone wanted to continue walking because this history lesson would probably go on for another hour or so. We checked out the little cellar sections and then were on our way. I would have liked to hear it all, but the others were right, because we had a ways to go.
Walking a stone row on state park land, Hoff Vanetta Farm
We made our way back along the edge of the fields behind the farmstead. One guy standing out in front of the big barn smoking a cigarette gave us a peculiar look.
We made our way gradually up hill along the edge of the corn, then cut through a tree line separating this field from another further up. We followed the edge of this field out to a woods line, and cut onto a stone row. We walked along the top of it out to another field and skirted the edge of it as well.
Hoff Vanetta Farmstead from the woods
There was a nice, different view of the Hoff-Vanetta Farmstead from this perspective, and I thought how most people don't have the opportunity to see it from this angle.
What we were walking was what I envisioned to be a connector trail between the new Cross Warren Trail and the Hoff Vanetta Farmstead, much like the connector trails that go between main trail systems in Mercer and Morris Counties (like Fosterfields Living Historic Farm).
This wall took us out to a tree line that was much wider than anything previously. This is because there was a stream going through it.
Fields in Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
View from the pipeline, Harmony
Jason and I took the lead through the woods. It was probably the worst bushwhacking we had to do of the day. We made our way across several springs and a stream. We found a pretty good route by going around the root system sat vertically from a fallen tree, and then out to an old farm road. The others made their way through a much tougher route.
Once we were all together, we headed down hill on the woods road slightly to make our way into another field. The edge was clear enough, and it was full of dried up corn like the first ones we'd walked through from the farmstead.
We eventually came to the right of way of the giant pipe that comes out of the Merril Creek Reservoir to the Delaware River (the first right of way we followed down was actually a gas line). We joked about how "splendid" the route we were following was compared to the previous bushwhacking as we walked the pipe line up hill.
It didn't look bad at first, but the pipeline was quite steep. ATVs had been using it to some extent, because there was a beaten down bath through the high weeds all the way up. The view continued to get better as we ascended. Wind Gap again came into view, and turned soon into a 180 degree panorama where we could see the Delaware Water Gap, and out toward Little Gap and what might have been Lehigh Gap. It was fantastic.
The slope on the pipeline became dramatically steeper as we neared Ridge Road. The ATV path continued to ascend until it got too seep for an ATV to traverse, at which point it turned right into the woods away from the pipeline. We followed it, and it was nice and clear. I was concerned it would come out in someone's yard, but we got lucky. It made it's way directly onto Ridge Road before the next house, and at the border of state park land! This would indeed be a perfect trail route. The ATV path continued on the other side, but we opted instead to follow Ridge Road back to the pipeline again.
"Splendid" says Larry at the viewpoint
Splendid view from the pipeline
View to the south along the pipeline
Path up a knoll on the pipeline
When we reached the pipeline, there was a terrific view from the road into the valley. On the other side, a paved road followed the edge of the pipeline with a gate on it. It did not say "no trespassing" and there were state park signs nearby on the same side of the road, so we followed it onward.
We soon came to a giant earthen mound, obviously man made. There was a garage door into it, as well as a regular walking door, and a grassy path leading to the top of the mound. I couldn't place what this thing was, but I assumed it was an access to the giant buried pipe. Al and I made our way up to the top of the mound first, and we found an amazing view, more to the south than the previous ones.
Nice view from a giant mound on the pipeline
Harmony view
Harmony view
Following the pipe line east of Ridge Road
East of Ridge Road
I checked out the view from all of the different angles, and then headed back down. A small path led in a different direction to follow the pipe line further on. We went over a slight hill and then came to yet another spot with a fantastic view ahead of the pipe line. The autumn foliage was fantastic from this perspective, and the slight curves made by the pipe line actually added to the look. The path along the pipe line was clear and would make a perfect trail.
We followed the right of way through a few more fields and a section of woods, then another field.
Pipeline view in harmony township
We soon came out of the field section to Harmony Brass Castle Road. The path continued on the other side down hill. It was quite a hill to go down and climb back up. Jason and Larry went way ahead at this point. I waited behind for the others, and then we all descended the hill side when there were no cars coming.
Pipe line from Harmony Brass Castle Road
Creek crosing on the pipeline
Creek crosing on the pipeline
We made our way down, but when we reached the bottom we found that there was a substantial little creek we would have to cross. Jason and Larry had already made their way down stream slightly and found their own ways across. Larry used a log across the stream and had no problem. Jason I think got a wet foot during the crossing. I just walked through it. I think pretty much everyone else ended up getting one or both feet wet. David was throwing some rocks into the creek to see if he could make himself a dry crossing. I helped his mom cross on some of the rocks just downstream and she did not get her feet wet, but David, Al, and Jim all get pretty wet.
We made our way back to the pipe line from here and continued up hill. As we reached the crest of the hill near a fenced in area with a small building, we could see a mail delivery vehicle pull over at the pipe line crossing. I wondered if he might have called police because we looked suspicious or something.
Pipe line looking toward Harmony Brass Castle Road
Merril Creek Reservoir with a fake owl
Merril Creek Reservoir
Once at the top, the pipeline seemed to end. The mowed portion of it was not needed because the pipe tunneled under ground. We continued to bushwhack up hill through woods, and passed one more exposed small pipe. We then continued to bushwhack up hill and slightly to the right. We soon came out to the paved access road that went to the pipe line. We turned left on it and headed slightly up hill until we could see Fox Farm Road. From there, there was a rough path leading up to the road to the right, with a set of steps up to the guard rail. We walked up those, past some sort of water outlet onto Fox Farm Road. Across the street directly was a tiny foot bridge over another small spring. We walked this way and it led out to another sort of water pipe thing. We bushwhacked from here out to the third dam, another small dike. I started to climb up it when I saw people off to the left, so instead walked along side it. This led us out to the Hawk Watch area.
Once there, Jason, Larry, and I made our way down the paved handicap accessible fishing pier. As we neared it, I saw what appeared to be an owl roosting on a guard rail on a pump house pier I think it is. We quietly made our way out onto the fishing pier, and started taking pictures, only to realize it was actually a fake owl.
We headed back up the the Hawk Watch feeling rather silly.
Accessible fishing pier, Merril Creek Reservoir
Merril Creek Reservoir
At the Hawk Watch, there were several people watching the birds around the area. There was a Bald Eagle out on one of the trees back toward the dike we had just came up by. We had actually seen a Bald Eagle on the dam earlier in the morning as well, perhaps the same one.
In the other direction, one of the birders had his scope pointed at a Belted King Fisher roosting on a box close to the water. That was actually really cool to see as well. The guy there told us he had also seen a Golden Eagle earlier in the day.
We made our way down from the Hawk Watch area across I believe the spillway area, and then up along the trail across one last dike. The trail then turned onto a foot path which led to the former alignment of Fox Farm Road from before the construction of Merril Creek Reservoir. It followed this for a bit, and then another foot path through Black Spruce forest, and along lovely water's edge areas.
Merril Creek Reservoir near Fox Farm Road
We continued along the trail, and there were still dead trees sticking up out of the water from when it was first flooded back in the mid eighties. We continued past the reservoir and along the edge of Merril Creek itself, then crossed the wooden foot bridge. I checked the bridge over to see if I could find where I'd carved my name in it many many years before. No sign though. We then made our way to the next trail intersection and followed the waterfront trail to the right.
Merril Creek Reservoir with Chestnut Trees lining the path
The trail stayed pretty near the waterfront for a while, and then turned left after the inlet section. It was weird to see the trees along this meadow area had grown so large. I remembered them being like saplings. I hadn't noticed really before, but these were Chestnut trees. They must have been the Chinese variety that were immune to the blight that killed off all of the American Chestnuts.
Merril Creek Reservoir
The trail turned to the left away from the meadow and through a long section of woods. It soon became an old woods road and was quite easy compared to what we had previously gone through. When we reached a side trail to the right which led to the wildlife observation blind, Jason, Larry, David, and I went down to have a look. When we got there, Jason decided he had to climb up on top of it. Larry almost immediately followed.
Bird Blind, Merril Creek Reservoir
We then made our way back to the main trail and continued to the ruins of the Cather Farm. The old lime kiln was still in pretty good shape, and we could still clearly see the barn foundations. We continued across the section of nice boardwalk and then passed the foundation of the farm house itself.
Boardwalk near the Cather Farm, Merril Creek
From this point it wasn't long before the trail began to turn back into the inlet where the visitor center sits. It didn't take long at all from here to reach the parking lot again, and the easy paved path from the visitor's center to there.
Everyone handled the hike very well, and we were finished well before dark.
Merril Creek nature preserve
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