Hike #587; Warren Highlands Part One, Phillipsburg to Merril Creek Trail Scouting
9/25/11 Phillipsburg to Merril Creek; Cross Warren Trail Scouting with Alexis Kniazew, Michele Valerio, Bill Hann, Craig Nunn, Tara Lynn Ramagnoli, George ? (TELL ME IF I GOT HIS NAME WRONG!), Cory Salveson, Jack Lowry, and Susan Duncan.
Wandering through the unmarked trails of some new county property on Scotts Mountain
My next hike would be a point to point between Phillipsburg and Merril Creek scouting the possible future connections of trails in the region. The "Warren Trail" as they were calling it was to connect Allamuchy Mountain State Park with Marble Mountain Preserve in Phillipsburg. I loved the idea from the beginning, but I also have my own ideas regarding what the project should be. For one, I was concerned with the identity taking away from the former Warren Railroad; in part, this trail was to follow the former Lehigh and Hudson River Railroad, and I am concerned about confusion as to which railroad was which, since of course they had connections. I figured that prefixing it to make it "Cross-Warren Trail" would be good, or "Warren Highlands", or the like.
Huge hill west of Roseberry Street
Bushwhacking the wilds of Phillipsburg NJ
After meeting in the morning at Merril Creek Reservoir's visitor's center, a place I had been coming to much of my life, and that I remember them building, we shuttled as few cars as possible down to Heckman Street in Phillipsburg. It was great to have with us Mr. Bill Hann who had a long history in politics with the town of Phillipsburg, Warren County Planning Board, and who is still part of the Board of Recreation. He would tell us past plans for the town along the way that were pretty interesting.
We walked from Heckman down to Roseberry Street and then turned right along a sidewalk through the apartment complex just north of the former Morris and Essex division railroad tracks. This led us out to Kneedler Ave. We cut between two buildings after a short walk on this road, and then out through a large open field and then across a somewhat used ball field. There was a steep slope beyond with high weeds. It was difficult to descend from the top of the hill because there was junk and washed out ground in addition to the vegetation, but we managed.
The historic Roseberry House
Along Warren Street by the Roseberry House
From the bottom, we made it back out to more mowed lawn, part of one of the Phillipsburg schools. We made our way through a locked but passable gate in a chain link fence, across the school property to the historic Roseberry House.
This old home was a Georgian Manor style, something very uncommon for the area. The house was constructed prior to the American Revolution, but there is a lot about it's past that is shrouded in mystery. The gentleman farmer who took over the property, while an upstanding citizen apparently was illiterate because the deed was signed with simply an "x". It is of course not likely that a poor farmer could have constructed this place himself. Local historians say the building was constructed prior to the Revolution, and that the place was left sort of unfinished for a while, then was sold at auction of something, which would be a reasonable assumption. The place was one of the applicants for funding to the Warren County Municipal Conservancy Trust Fund for the year, on which I am a committeeman. As of this writing I am not sure if they project will be funding or not because there were a total of twenty two applications, the most in the history of the program. I had recently toured the building, which was amazing.
Old stenciling on Roseberry House walls! Phillipsburg
When the walls inside were worked on, they revealed by removing old layers of paint that there was originally amazing stencil work. Since wallpapwer was expensive, stencil paint was done on the walls with all sorts of interesting patterns.
The building is on the historic register, and is owned by the board of education. It is hoped that it will have functions different than most museums because there are just too many of them to sustain in the area. They want this to be a more function community and learning center to be regularly utilized by the kids from the school right there. I think it's a great project.
A Ghetto Fire Pit! This is an old industrial spot off of Warren Street and Anderson Street
Abandoned industrial street off of Warren Street
Abandoned industrial site
I gave a little history of the area from the beginnings of the home, on to the history of the Morris and Essex Railroad. We then turned right on Warren Street, then left again onto the abandoned access road to a former industrial site. I can't remember what the place used to be although Bill told us. He also mentioned that the site was supposed to be turned into town houses, but of course it was not the time to be building such things.
We passed what I refer to as a "ghetto fire pit" made with old pieces of concrete, and rather than burning wood they appeared to have been burning Sterilite containers!
We came out onto Anderson Street and turned left.
Foot Bridge to Walters Park
Walters Park Foot Bridge
Walters Park
We went only a short distance, and then turned left again onto Wilson Street and passed the youth center. From here the road dead ended, and a foot bridge led across the former Morris and Essex tracks into Walters Park. Bill told us about a greenway he's planned; it was a bike path that would have connected the schools all through town land and across Phillipsburg that would have kept pedestrians off so many of the roads. I thought it was a grand idea, but he said the engineer would not sign off on it, so it never came to be. He did mention that the town still owned the space, and although the plan did not call for a connection to Walters Park, one could possibly happen. Such exciting prospects.
He also told us of how the kids had cut a hole in the chain link fences on the foot bridge over the tracks to sit down, and that they'd drink, and if the police showed up they'd just drop the beer through the hole in the fence and then head the opposite direction on the foot bridge. Someone actually sued the town for the hole in the fence, because a kid fell through. Ridicules.
We crossed Walters Park after a short break, and then descended a hill to Richard Road and turned right.
Reflections on Center Street, P Burg
Old railroad spur line bridge on Center Street
We followed Richard Road shortly to Center Street and turned right. We passed by a building, took a mirror picture, and then continued to where I saw a paved path descended from Walters Park. I did not know there was a connection or I'd not have made my way down to the road so soon.
We continued to pass beneath the former Central Railroad of NJ beneath a culvert, and then there was a deck style girder bridge over head which I'd forgotten existed. This was an abandoned spur line from the other tracks to an industry to our right.
Spur line bridge over Center Street, P Burg
South Main Street trestle on former Lehigh Valley Railroad
South Main Street trestle on former Lehigh Valley Railroad
View from the South Main Street Trestle
View from the South Main Street Trestle
We went under the bridge and then turned left to climb to the abandoned right of way of the Lehigh Valley Railroad, which paralleled the CNJ line although it was a competitor. When we got to the top, we took a brief side trip and back tracked over to the deck girder trestle over Center Street to check it out. It was totally overgrown and fenced on the other side, but pretty cool looking.
We then turned around and began following the former Lehigh Valley right of way west. The right of way was getting more and more overgrown ever time I was up it. This time it had been a few years since I was here. It was still passable, but not nearly as much as it was a decade earlier the first time I walked it.
We followed the rail bed out to the old deck girder bridge over South Main Street and crossed. There were good views of Phillipsburg in both directions from atop the bridge. The last time I'd crossed this was on a Morris Canal hike in the Autumn of 2007 as I recall, quite some time ago as well. We crossed carefully, as the ties were looking to be in very bad condition, worse than I'd remembered.
South Main Street trestle on former Lehigh Valley Railroad
Former Lehigh Valley Railroad bed in Phillipsburg
McKean Street bridge I think, former LV railroad
After we were all across, we continued on the rail bed ahead. It was somewhat overgrown, but all managable. We continued on and then crossed over I think it was McKean Street on another tie bridge in bad shape. From there, the right of way cleared off and we were easily able to walk it. I think the next road we crossed was Stockton Street at grade.
We continued along the right of way until we neared Delaware River Park. When we reached an ATV trail I had been looking for, we turned left off of the rail bed.
Lehigh Valley Railroad's Mt. Parnassus Cut, P Burg
Climbing Mt. Parnassus from the cut
Top of Mt. Parnassus looking to Easton PA
View from Mt. Parnassus toward Morgan Hill PA
On Mt. Parnassus
Mt. Parnassus
View of the former Morris Canal boat basin and top of Inclined Plane 11W from Mt. Parnassus
Cory being crazy on Mt. Parnassus
The path led into the woods adjacent to Delaware River Park, and then to the base of the rocky outcropping known as Mt. Parnassus. The Lehigh Valley Railroad had blasted through this rock more than a century prior to construct a connection to rail yards and the former Bel Del tracks. We turned slightly left and got on this old connecting line, where the rails were still in place in an eerie scene.
We made our way through the Mt. Parnassus Cut, and then to the trail that led to the top of Parnassus itself. This trail was insanely steep from the bottom, but then leveled off a bit. We all managed to climb up, which got a bit rocky again near the top. Once up there, we had a great view of Morgan Hill to the south, the Delaware, the former Morris Canal route heading south, Rt 78, and then continuing around we could see more of the Morris Canal historic route and the Delaware, as well as Easton and the tops of the Delaware bridges.
After a break to admire the views here, we made our way slightly down hill on the trail to another great view, this time over the former Morris Canal boat basin, later a land fill, and now Delaware River Park and a skate park. I gave a history talk about the canals, and Craig told us a bit about the Erie Canal as well. Cory climbed out onto a small tree that hung over a fifty plus foot drop, which looked rather scary.
Cory being crazy on Mt. Parnassus
We climbed down from Parnassus by way of my favorite alternate route, which can look rather scary at first, but is actually easier than the way we went up. Only one spot where it is necessary to either slowly come down holding rocks, or by grabbing the branch of a tree took any real amount of time.
Atop the Morris Canal Arch, western terminus in Phillipsburg
Along the Delaware in Phillipsburg, future trail route
Former Lehigh and Hudson River Railroad bridge over the Delaware
Washed out edge of the Delaware in Phillipsburg
View of the LHR bridge, P Burg
View of the Northampton Street Free Bridge
Delaware view
Once we were all down, we made our way through an opening in the chain link fence around Delaware River Park and then along a paved path toward the top of former Inclined Plane #11 West of the Morris Canal. As we walked by the skate park section, one of the kids said hello to Bill. It turned out he was friends with his grandson.
We soon reached the top of the inclined plane and Craig got some pictures of signs. We made our way through the fence line, but then left the canal and made our way up an embankment to the former Lehigh Valley Railroad bed again. I showed everyone the signal bridge I've always loved to climb, but didn't bother to do it this time. I told them about how my buddy Ron had died at the bridge, and some of the history of the takeover by Conrail and why the railroad alignments were the way they are today. We then took a path out and across the active former CNJ tracks to the paved path down to the former Bel Del Tracks by the river.
We said hi to a guy working the railroad excursion line there. We had seen the steam locomotive go by from Mt. Parnassus and from our way down, but it wasn't going to be back for a while, so we didn't hang around to wait. We crossed the tracks and descended to the former Morris Canal arch, the western terminus of the Morris Canal. I told everyone how the canal worked and how they would have gotten boats from the Delaware and Lehigh Canals across the river by way of a line across, in slack water that was created by a wooden dam. There were a couple kids sitting out on the thing, and they seemed slightly annoyed that we were out there but too bad.
The river was still very high from the recent flooding. The canal going toward the former inclined plane was full of water, which only happens when it's really high. Still, it wasn't too high to keep us from walking along the river instead of along the tracks back out to Union Square. We headed down along the path way along the river, which kept us barely out of the water. It was a nice walk with some good views of the bridges for former Lehigh and Hudson River Railroad, as well as the Northampton Street Free Bridge as we neared it. We climbed to Union Square by way of the wooden stair case to the river.
Once in Union Square, Bill chatted with the proprietor of a bar business there he knew. We then headed over to the convenience store and pizza place where many of us enjoyed a slice of pizza as well as some nice cold drinks. I had one of my favorite Arizona RX Energy iced teas.
From here, we walked to cross the Northampton Street Free Bridge. Once on the other side, we made a right and then took steps to the trail below in Columbus Park. We followed the river north on the Easton site until we passed under the Rt 22, or actually the Bushkill Street Bridge.
Rt 22, or Bushkill Street Bridge from Easton PA
View of Getters Island from the toll bridge, Easton
Old road route up hill along North Main Street, P Burg
Inside the giant drainage tunnel, P Burg
Along the Delaware in P Burg
We crossed back into NJ along Rt 22. On the bridge, I told everyone the story about Getters Island; about the man who murdered his wife and was hanged on that island, and about the first steam boat in the Delaware that had exploded along it's side.
Once on the NJ side, we passed the guard shack, and then descended from the highway to the former alignment of Rt 22 from before the Flood of 55. Bill told us he had gone to Stroudsburg to help out during the flooding, and that in the morning he got up there with no problem, but that on his way back he had to drive through water to get back across the bridge! He told us the water was half way up his doors, I think he said it was a Lincoln, but that he made it through, and was the last car before it was closed off.
During that flood, both sides of the bridge had their approach under water, but the bridge was not. That is why today if you look at the alignment going into PA from NJ, you can see how the Bushkill Street alignment was supposed to work.
As we descended the guards from the building next to the bridge came out and watched us. They watched closely as we continued on our way for some time until we were gone.
Once we reached North Main Street, Bill called his wife to pick him up as his feet were hurting, but had had a good time so far.
The rest of us continued on along the street, and it became Rt 621. We then reached my favorite drainage pipe under the road and the industrial site out to the Delaware. Craig opted not to go through, but instead followed the road up to the base of Marble Mountain. The rest of us went through, but had a tough time. Since the storm, half of the entrance had been washed in. What was easy to stand up in before, it was now necessary to crawl barely on our hands and knees! I crawled without a light for some time and got past huge piles of sticks and debris. Then Michele passed a light to me, and I used it to get to a huge pile nearly blocking the entire passage. I was able to pull some branches out and squeeze by close to the wall, and then it opened up to normal height at the round section of the pipe. I motioned for everyone to come through, and they did. We were then able to walk the rest of the way through with ease.
On the other side, Jack and Susie were calling trying to meet up. I told them to meet us at the base of Marble Mountain and gave them directions, and the rest of us continued on along the river to the right. My phone was nearly dead already, but fortunately just about everyone had google maps application on their phones by this time, and it came in very handy.
Giant hollow tree along the Delaware
Big hollow tree along the Delaware
We were running low on time, so I opted to skip the Pump House property and walk along the river. We came to the giant hollow tree I had found while hiking with Cathy years before, and got some pictures in it. We then climbed up to the railroad tracks and Rt 621 where we met back up with Craig. We turned right and soon came to the trail head for Marble Mountain, and within a couple minutes Jack and Susie showed up and joined with Zip Line (Flip Flop) and a guitar.
We began ascending Marble Mountain following the old woods road that gradually made it's way up.
Spider on Marble Mountain
Spider on Marble Mountain
Fulmer iron mine, Marble Mountain
Mushrooms on Marble Mountain
Mushrooms on Marble Mountain
On the way up, we came across a giant yellow spider that had built it's web over the trail. We made our way around it, but not until we started at it's pretty patterns for a good while.
We continued until we got to the Marble Hill/Fulmer Mine where we took another break. We of course went inside and had a look around before moving on.
From here, we followed the trail, which began to level off a bit more from this point, and passed by a few other mine pits and some colorful mushrooms. The trail led us for quite a ways, which was great, but it eventually just started heading down hill which we did not want to do. I knew it would eventually come back up, but that would mean going down and coming back up Marble Mountain, so we began to bushwhack. We could see the clearing above us where I usually walk through, but I don't believe we have the rights to use that property for the new trail, so we continued on. Everyone helped out a lot with their GPS units here. We got split up now and then, but kept getting back together. It was pretty brutal throughout the section, but it got better and we arrived on another old woods road. We were able to follow it for a bit, and then reach a utility right of way which would take us to the top.
Utility line on Marble Mountain
Once we reached the top, there was a farm off to the right, and the utility line continued straight ahead. There was a large earth mover parked on the right of way, so I went in and tried to start it, but there were no keys, so we continued on.
View on the south side of Marble Hill
View on the south side of Marble Hill
View on the south side of Marble Hill
Stone wall access to a utility line on Marble Hill
View on the south side of Marble Hill
Buckley Hill abandoned cul de sac
Buckley Hill view
The view opened up a bit more over the farm, looking toward Phillipsburg, and we could see beyond to Morgan Hill. It was a good perspective that showed us where we'd come from. We could even hear the sound of the locomotive whistle in the distance from this point.
We continued to descend on the right of way, and then over a pile of stones out to a cul de sac. I had come here with Cathy many years before, but had never followed the utility right of way up hill beyond the water tower that was now to our right. We saw this area when it was just being constructed, and the cul de sac we were now approaching had just been constructed. The area now appeared to have been abandoned for several years. Large weeds grow up along the edge of the curbs that had been placed. I thought for sure this place was gone to development when we'd first visited, but everything seems to have halted. I'm not sure what the road was called, but it's directly across from Buckley Hill Road down below.
We headed down hill with more views beyond to Scotts Mountain, the next one we would ascend in order to reach Merril Creek Reservoir. At the bottom, Craig decided he wanted to head back to his car because we weren't sure how long this section of exploring would take. Tara Lynn, Cory and George (???) all opted to cut out too due to the uncertainty ahead.
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
County land in Harmony Twp
Those of us remaining turned left on Belvidere Road, which had a nice paved path on the northbound side of it. We didn't have to go all that far along this road before reaching a field that was county property, targeted for this particular trail. It was to the right shortly after passing Belview Road. We cut into the fields and headed across, skirting the north edge of the fields. There were some wet areas, and after reaching the middle we had to cut through a line of trees that had a stream in between, but we made it through alright. We then followed yet another field edge full of soy beans out to Strykers Road across from the Warren County Farmers Fair Grounds. We were going to go through it, as the trail had the right to go through, but the antique fair was going on and I didn't know if they changed admission, so we opted to just walk north for a bit, and then turn right onto Rt 519 for a bit. We talked to a land owner that said they were asking him for permission for the trail to go through his land as well.
We turned left off of 519 onto Fairview, a road that paralleled the Harker's Hollow golf course.
Bridge in Harkers Hollow Golf Course
For a short distance, we followed the path for the golf carts in Harkers Hollow to get off of the roads. Jack played and I sang a bit as we walked the road section.
Once we got to the end of the Fairview road, there were a lot of signs that read "private property" and homes. We cut off to the left along the top of the golf course near where people were playing, and I found a woods road going in to the right heading up hill, just what we wanted it to do!
Making our way up Scotts Mountain on an old woods road
Woods road heading up Scotts Mountain
View through the forest at Scotts Mountain
The woods road was quite steep, but it turned off to the left after a fork and was leading us luckily to where we wanted to go exactly. Looking at the GPS was amazing to see how the infrastructure of the trail we were planning was already in place throughout this area!
The woods road eventually began to lose elevation which was a concern, but then a lightly treaded ATV path went off to the right and headed back up hill, then continued further in the direction we wanted to go. This was perfect.
Jack serenaded us with yet another great original diddy called "We're In the Traveller's Club" after a new favorite cheap booze.
Still, the path eventually led up to fields that were accessible off of Fox Farm and Decker Roads. This wasn't public land, so I continued to bushwhack off through the woods. The others went up into the fields, which in part might be county but I wasn't sure.
I eventually headed up to meet them, and Jack and I found an old farm road just into the woods from the field which looked good to walk. We coerced Susie and Alexis to join us on that and we continued heading north.
Fields near Wester Road
Fields heading up Scotts Mountain
Fields near Wester Road
The old road came out of the woods to a narrow section between homes and fields. I think we were off of county land by now, but we opted to just go straight out to Wester Road instead of trying to fight our way down hill and then back up. This was much easier. The swath of field between houses was mowed off nicely, but the next section had grown over with golden flowers and a few abrasive plants. We managed to bushwhack through and make our way out to Wester Road where we turned right.
Sign denoting the way to Merril Creek Reservoir on Fox Farm Road
Nice scene along Fox Farm Road
Trail at Merril Creek Reservoir from Fox Farm Road
We turned right and soon reached the intersection of Fox Farm Road where we all took a much needed break. It was a brutal climb and bushwhack for a bit of time. There were some young girls at a house near the corner that were looking over at us like we were crazy. Jack continued to play entertaining guitar stuff. There were kids on bikes that passed us in this area that we had seen much earlier and a lot further away who also must have been wondering how we got to this point.
We followed Fox Farm Road down hill, and then up hill again until we got to the property of Merril Creek Reservoir. The original plan was to follow through woods for this section as well, but at this point none of us were feeling up to it. We made our way to the entrance parking area, and then onto the trail which led us to a bench at a fork. We took a break and then turned onto the right fork of the Perimeter Trail which would lead us back to the visitor's center.
Merril Creek Perimeter Trail
Merril Creek Reservoir
View from the main dam of Merril Creek Reservoir with hot air balloons in sight
We followed the well cleared trail for a bit. My only problem with this preserve is the blazing, how it's not done right and they hammer the blazes all the way into the trees. Some of them were terribly grown into the trees already.
We stopped for a break at a really nice spot with a sandy beach, and I decided to take a swim. It was a really humid day; it had started to cool off in the previous couple of weeks but it was feeling like August again. My shirt was so wet with sweat I could barely get it off. I took a brief swim which was excellent. Flip Flop was running around like a lunatic.
Weird cloud plume across Merril Creek Reservoir from the power plant
The main dam at Merril Creek Reservoir
Main dam at Merril Creek Reservoir
We made our way back onto the trail, which soon came out at the main dam of the reservior. From here on to the boat launch it would follow the access road. We could see four hot air balloons flying in the distance from the main dam as we crossed. On the far side I passed by a young couple who were familiar with some of my trail work on the Taylor Steelworkers Historic Greenway, and the Columbia Trail, so it was cool to chat with people enjoying the fruits of my labors. I told them about my friend Bill Honachefsky and how they should talk to him if they see him around.
We continued off of the dam and through the woods, and chatted about how wonderful Taco Bell is, and another young couple joined in with the conversation about the Chicken Flatbread sandwiches. I knew I had to get some afterwards.
We continued out across the next dike, and then through the immature young woods before the boat launch. The first young couple we met jogged by us and said goodbye. We then crossed the boat launch and the foot bridge on the other side for the last little ascent before reaching our cars and the end of the hike.
And so ended another interesting day, although somewhat more strenuous than anticipated.
Sunset over Merril Creek Reservoir
Jack, Susie and I had some fantastic Taco Bell.
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