Hike #567 Swatara East
7/3/11 Rt 735/Swatara Gap/Valley Area with Jason Kumpas, Amanda Murphy, Corrin Dylnicki, Eric Pace, Sharon Daley Kelley, and Amanda Rosenblatt.
The group coming across the historic Waterville Bridge in Swatara Gap
My next hike would be a point to point to connect some of the previous Appalachian Trail stuff we'd done with Swatara Gap were I'd begun a backpacking trip in St. Anthony's Wilderness. This was the most significant section to bridge the missing gap.
Box Turtle along the Appalachian Trail west of Rt 745, Blue Mountain PA
From Rt 745, we began following the southbound Appalachian Trail. I believe we ascended a little bit, but it wasn't much. This entire section was far easier than what we'd thought it would be. So much of the trail in PA ended up being small pointy rocks that were hard on the feet, but most of this was a bit wider with a good tread way and soft surface. Overall very relaxing. We saw a box turtle on the ridge along the way, which I found to be uncommon. They usually are lower elevation when I see them.
William Penn Shelter off of the AT
Along the way we made a left turn off of the AT onto a side trail which led to the William Penn Shelter. This was an interested two story shelter. Along the way we passed some sort of a privy or something, and at first we couldn't figure out what it was, thinking it was the shelter.
Along the Appalachian Trail west of William Penn Shelter.
We continued along the AT, and had a couple areas where the sharp rocks were around, but overall it wasn't bad and remained pleasant. There weren't many ripe blueberries around, but there were tons of black rasberries which tasted great.
Overlook along the AT west of William Penn Shelter
Overlook on Blue Mountain west of William Penn Shelter
Copperhead
Copperhead
Copperhead
Copperhead
It was a pretty uneventful section of trail, just relaxing mostly, until we came to our first real overlook. There was a great view to the south where we saw some of the secondary ridges forming. I think the one e could see most prominantly was Little Mountain.
I stepped out onto the rocks and started taking pictures, when Corrin pointed out to me that there was a snake right where I was putting my foot. Sure enough, there was a good sized Copperhead sitting right there basking in a crack. It began moving off, and when the others caught up a second one was noticed, all coiled next to the other one. Quite surprising.
View from Blue Mountain along the AT
Copperhead between the rocks at the view point
The Copperheads had quite brilliant color to them. Just a bit unnerving to think I nearly stepped on them. That would have been bad.
Along the AT east of Swatara Gap
Jason K is Sexsi.
We continued following the AT southbound, which remained pretty easy. As we walked, Eric and Amanda got quite a bit behind. I told everyone the story of how Skyler Jermyn and I had hid in the Mountain Laurels years ago and hid, then let Eric pass us and continued behind him.
We were originally planning on jumping out and scaring them, but then we decided to try the hiding thing.
AT rocky section east of Swatara Gap
Hiding to let the group pass us
Hiding to let the group pass us
They all walked behind us, looking all around, but didn't see us at all. When they were out of sight, we continued on along the trail ahead. We kept them at such a distance that we could barely see them. We finally caught up when they stopped for too long a period and played it off like we were behind them the whole time. So funny.
Along the AT nearing Swatara Gap
Along the AT nearing Swatara Gap
The trail had a few slight ups and downs, but soon we were pretty much just heading down. The trail remained pleasant, and lost elevation pretty slowly. Just before making a sharp right turn off of the ridge we passed a nice, somewhat obscure view toward the lower Swatara Valley and Interstate 81.
As we descended, there were all sorts of beautiful ferns around us.
View of Interstate 81 just above Swatara Gap
Nearing the Interstate 81 underpass
The trail continued to lose elevation, and on the way down we crossed over a gravel road that appeared to be kept maintained. I guess this might have been what was referred to as "Old State Road", now part of a state park trail. We crossed and continued on the AT heading down to the Interstate 81 underpass.
Graffiti under the Interstate 81 bridge
Interstate 81 underpass
Interstate 81 underpass
When we passed under Interstate 81 below the giant towering bridges, we found an interesting graffiti of a rude hiker guy which made us chuckle. We all decided to take a break in the shade under the bridge, which was quite nice. The spot offered a view of the bridges and down to the creek, although it wasn't as nice as a natural view.
Historic Waterville Bridge, Swatara Gap
Historic Watervile Bridge, Swatara Gap
View downstream on the Swatara Creek from Waterville Bridge
Taking a dip in Swatara Creek below Waterville Bridge
Historic Waterville Bridge
After our break, we descended to another abandoned road, probably the real route of Old State Road, and turned right. We followed this road along the Swatara Creek to where the Appalachian Trail turned off of it to the left. It crossed the historic Waterville Bridge. This bridge is one of only three like it in the state of Pennsylavania. It is known as a lenticular truss bridge, and was once in a namesake location in Lycoming County. Apparently the bridge was in danger of being demolished, when it was proposed to be used as an Appalachian Trail bridge to cross the Swatara Creek. It was then brought to it's current location and rehabilitated for pedestrian only traffic.
Old State Road continued ahead, now part of Bear Hole Trail, while we crossed the Waterville Bridge. The water had a nice calm section on the east side, so I decided to take the opportunity for a swim. Pretty soon almost everyone was in the pleasant water with me.
We goofed off for a bit, swam, and I climbed up the trusses to the Waterville Bridge. The opposite side of the bridge intersected an old railroad bed, now the Swatara Rail Trail. It continued to the south to the town of Lickdale, and to the northeast to the town of Pine Grove. The Appalachian Trai continued ahead to go through Swatara State Park and then to St. Anthony's Wilderness. We all turned right off of the AT to follow the railroad route, which at this time was actually a former paved road route as well. We had to walk along lined pavement not open to traffic.
Abandoned road in Swatara State Park
Abandoned highway, Swtara State Park
Abandoned highway, Swatara State Park
Apparently the railroad had been abandoned much longer than the system of roads here, and it had long been built over the railroad bed at the point of the gap. We continued on this until the two diverged. At that time, I followed the railroad right of way while everyone else pretty much stayed on the road, which was probably smarter since so much of the rail bed was badly overgrown.
Along the way, there were some kids swimming off to the right in Swatara Creek. They were jumping off of a tree into the water which looked great, so I went over to try. It was indeed great, and I too jumped out of the tree into the water before moving on.
Swatara Rail Trail
Flowas yo.
Swatara Rail Trail north of Swatara Gap
Swatara Creek in Swatara State Park
Swatara Rail Trail
Swatara Rail Trail north of Swatara Gap
View of Blue Mountain, where we were earlier in the day, from Swatara Rail Trail
Old church nearing Suedburg PA
Luna Moth along Swatara Rail Trail in Suedburg
Former trestle site in Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
After the abandoned highway section sort of ended, the railroad right of way got a lot wider. It was much easier to walk. It made it's way back and forth away from the waters of the Swatara Creek, following a straighter route through the flood plain.
Twice I stopped again to jump into the refreshing waters. I thought the entire time, especially on the rail trail section, how relaxing this hike was. I never felt like I was really exercising all that hard, just having a wonderful, calm, relaxing day.
The trail took us close to the creek, and then away where we had a nice view out to Blue Mountain, where we could see the ridge we had just hiked on. I always love vistas like this where I can feel the sense of accomplishment for how far I've already walked.
The trail continued on with fields off to the right side, and then soon made a connection to Rt 443 to the left. We stayed on the rail bed to soon find why it did so; there was a missing trestle over a tributary to the Swatara Creek. This didn't bother us at all, because were were all able to walk down across the creek with no problem. Eric headed down to the road to cross on the road bridge. When we were down by the creek we could see Eric parallel with us. It worked out because it gave him the chance to catch up.
We continued from here, and it wasn't long before we reached the village of Suedburg. This town was nearly a ghost town. There was one church we passed by near the former trestle site, and then a few houses near the corner of Rt 443 and Swopes Valley Road, but overall there wasn't much to it. There were two obviously abandoned houses within proximity to the railroad bed on Swopes Valley Road. One was almost completely done for. The entire side of the house facing the road was removed and we could see how the floors were bowing downward. It wouldn't be long before it collapsed.
The second building was much more substantial, and definitely salvagable. It was large and had two stories and a basement. Corrin and I were the only ones to go in. The doors were locked, except the basement entrance. We went in through there and made our way up the stairs (which were missing two steps) to the main part of the house. The bottom floor had junk all over, but nothing to show that it had been occupied even recently. I assumed that this must have been some sort of general store because I saw what appeared to be one of those freezer displays with the sliding doors.
The second floor had two accesses, mirror image stair cases facing opposite sides of the house, north and south. I went up one and came down the other. The upper level, which probably at one time was several separated rooms, was now just a completely opened and gutted space. Windows were all smashed out allowing rain to come in. I worry that if that's allowed to keep going the place will certainly be done for.
Since it was right along the railroad bed, this was probably a place that once had rail service to it. I'd bet there was once a station here.
We left the building, and turned right off of the rail bed onto Swopes Valley Road to the bridge over the Swatara Creek. We finished here, as we parked at a lot across from the former Old State Road/Bear Hole Trail.
Abandoned building, Suedburg PA
We closed out the day by feasting on Taco Bell. The only thing un-relaxing about this day was the drive.
The group coming across the historic Waterville Bridge in Swatara Gap
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