Hike #562; Clarks Valley to Oregon Road (Lancaster Area) Backpack
6/6/11 to 6/13/11 Clark's Valley to Oregon Pike (Lancaster area) with Jillane Becker
Two backpackers in Stony Valley
DAY 1
It had been nearly a year since Jillane and I had last gone backpacking. We had fantastic memories of the incredible trip we took from Centralia to Lehighton PA. I knew it would be extremely difficult to come up with something that would be quite so good. Further, I would rather try to do something very different than attempt to repeat something in the same exact way.
I looked at several different routes from NY to PA, and nearly last minute came up with one between Harrisburg, St. Anthony's Wilderness, Hershey, and Lancaster. This changed even more the night before, with a route starting in Clark's Valley at the southern Appalachian Trail road crossing site at St. Anthony's Wilderness.
Getting ready in Clark's Valley
Clark's Creek
Clark's Valley PA
After dropping off our cats for Jillane's sister Jamie to watch for the week, we travelled to Clark's Valley PA where the Appalachian Trail crosses Rt 325, at an expanse of woods.
There were a few other backpackers around, passing through or finishing up on their own trips. They all have their community thing, but little did they know that we were about to embark on something completely different than anything they were doing.
Appalachian Trail through hikers are really cool, but they all have their own stories about the same places. I've always enjoyed backpacking through more odd areas, even going back years (some of my earliest trips in 1998-2001).
The place we started was lovely, with the Clark's Creek flowing in a Hemlock grove that was cool and shady.
And we're off, Clark's Valley PA
Clark's Creek along the AT
We were soon off; we left the parking lot and crossed the Clark's Creek on a bridge on the Appalachian Trail. We weren't on the trail for long at all before turning off to the right on a blue blazed side trail following an old woods road.
Blue blazed side trail from the AT in Clark's Valley
Mating butterflies. Hot.
The woods road took us along Clark Creek for a bit, and then gradually ascended slightly to the south along the rim of Third Mountain, known as Stony Mountain further down. As we walked, we observed mating butterflies in a bush.
Mating butterflies.
Logging area in Clark's Valley
Blue blazed route on a woods road through Clark's Valley
Woods road in Clark's Valley
View from blue blazed woods road in Clark's Valley
View from blue blazed woods road in Clark's Valley.
The woods road continued to ascend gradually along the edge of Third Mountain. The vegetation changed from Hemlocks to mixed hardwoods. We soon came to an open area, probably from recent logging, where all sorts of younger trees were taking over. Unfortunately a lot of them were Tree of Heaven/Ailanthus Altissima.
The woods road continued, and offered some limited views north to Peter's Mountain, the next ridge in the line where the logging had occurred. We passed through a couple of these for about a mile from the AT, and then made a left hand turn on a pink blazed trail.
Pink trail up Third Mountain
Giant tree on the Pink Trail heading up Third Mountain
Mountain Laurels in bloom on the Pink Trail.
Ascending Third Mountain on Pink Trail
Pink Trail on Third Mountain
Limited view from pink trail
Along Pink Trail
Pink trail which follows an old logging route.
The pink trail ascended quite steeply up the ridge. It passed through some really interesting, constantly changing woods. Some areas were very young forest, densely growing together, while other areas were second growth containing mountain laurel, and other sections were slightly larger with good shade. As we reached the top there were limited views off to Peter's Mountain again. The trail seemed to follow an old logging road. We couldn't tell this was what we were on because it was so badly deteriorated and/or washed out until we got further up the ridge where vegetation was more sparse.
The top of Third Mountain at Water Tank Trail
Water Tank Trail on the north side of Third Mountain
When we came to the crest of Third Mountain, the trail joined the blue blazed Water Tank Trail, a steep cross mountain trail named for a water tank that used to exist on the railroad line that passed through Stony Valley to the south. We followed the Water Tank Trail on somewhat level terrain atop the ridge which was pleasant, out to a ridge top fire road.
Fire road on top of Third Mountain
Descending Water Tank Trail
Cascades on Water Tank Trail
The Water Tank Trail seemed pleasant at first with it's gradual ascend down the south side of Third Mountain, but this was soon to become a difficult steep mess. There was a creek that flowed from springs down this part of the mountain, and it often eroded the trail to where it was nearly impassible.
Descending on Water Tank Trail, south side of Third Mountain
Water Tank Trail on the south side of Third Mountain
Water Tank Trail, on an old stone wall type of fill.
Water Tank Trail
Cascades along Water Tank Trail
Some sort of grave along Water Tank Trail
We descended along the trail over loose rocks that would just roll out from under our feet. We had taken a break at the top of Third Mountain thinking that the rest of the way would be easy and we could spend our extra time looking for a camp site, but it was not to be.
Springs were on both the left and right of us, which was really interesting because we were descending on a trail on a sort of hump between two creeks only about fifty feet apart. We soon crossed one and descended on the left of the main creek, which cascaded rather nicely to our right. As we continued on the descent got a bit easier. The trail seemed to descend via an old woods road that was atop a small stone wall. It was getting rather eroded, but it reminded us quite a lot of the Yellow Springs Trail further east of this spot, also in St. Anthony's Wilderness down the same ridge. I don't think this one would have been a gravity railroad tramway like that one was though. Another trail joined in from the left, and more vegetation appeared as we neared the bottom. We had to walk in or right next to the creek in this area, and then turned away as the ground began to level off. We passed some sort of a weird grave in this section directly along the trail. We continued on around a huge section of blow downs, and then passed through an evergreen grove before coming out on the Stony Valley Rail Trail.
Stony Valley Rail Trail
Stony Creek swimming hole
Just to the left down Stony Valley Rail Trail, there was a sign that read "Water Tank Trail" on the opposite side of the right of way. I followed this down to Stony Creek to find the most incredible deep pool of water along the creek. I excitedly called Jillane over, and we picked out an excellent camp site on the opposite side of the creek, sort of out of view behind some Rhododendrons.
We set up our tent and finished out our first day by taking a refreshing dip in the freezing waters of the Stony Creek before turning in for the night.
Our wonderful Stony Valley campsite next to a beautiful deep, cold swimming hole.
We were lucky not to have any rain over night, and I woke early to have a look around. I wanted to see if there was an easy way to get around a corner and shorten our route with a bushwhack.
Our camp site in Stony Valley
Stony Creek in the morning
Stony Creek
Stony Creek
I waded back across the Stony Creek at the shallow area just down stream from our camp site, and made my way out to the Stony Valley Rail Trail. There was a light mist over the Stony Creek which looked awesome. I knew after a bit that this area would probably be popular with fishermen, so I hurried along down the rail trail heading east.
Stony Valley Rail Trail where it's possible to see where the ties once sat.
It was really interesting to see on the trail the difference in color in the surfacing. I could easily see where the railroad ties once sat for so many years, though they've been gone probably for decades.
Section of old growth trees in Stony Valley
I walked pretty fast on along the trail, and there was a really nice area with what appeared to be some old growth forest to the right along the creek, with beautiful mossy carpeting the ground below it.
I hurried along and soon came to where the Horseshoe Trail joined the Stony Valley Rail Trail.
Kurtz's Bridge on the Horseshoe Trail
Stony Creek from Kurtz's Bridge
I turned right and descended on the Horseshoe Trail, which followed a wide logging road at this point, to Kurtz's Bridge, a nice little vehicular bridge over Stony Creek. I crossed and looked to see if there was a connection between here and where we had camped, but there was not. The road ascended Second Mountain from here gradually. It then headed back to the rail trail the mile back to the camp site to let Jillane know that would be the route we would have to take.
Our camp site along Stony Creek
Along Stony Creek, taken by a fisherman
Picture by a fisherman along Stony Creek
I woke Jillane up, and we were able to pack the tent up and most of our stuff with just enough time before two fishermen showed up at the hole. We had to wade back across the creek, and chatted with them about some local history. They told us that we might hear jets going by loudly from nearby Fort Indiantown Gap military reservation. They had arrived at the site via bicycle. It was funny because I sort of joked that fishermen would come in by bicycle the night before.
The one fishermam took a picture of us at Jillane's request. He admitted he didn't know what he was doing with the camera, which was apparent. When I saw the two pictures he took, neither were centered or even very focused. When he asked how it was I replied "oh it's great!". As we walked away he said to his other old friend "I'm a natural!" with great gusto.
Along Stony Valley Rail Trail
We turned right on the Stony Valley Rail Trail and followed it the mile to the Horseshoe Trail and again crossed Stony Creek on Kurtz's Bridge.
Horseshoe Trail in the Stony Valley
Horseshoe Trail in Stony Valley
View up Second Mountain from Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail on north rim of Second Mountain
Horseshoe Trail along Second Mountain
The trail turned to the right and began to ascend slightly skirting the north side of Second Mountain. This was still a somewhat active logging road which changed a bit in it's appearance as we walked it. It was about a three mile stretch which seemed to go on forever. Along the way we passed by recently logged areas which afforded views up to the Second Mountain ridge above us, and occasional views back toward Third Mountain to the north. For a while the woods road paralleled a strange fence line on our left. When there's a long boring section even a fence seems like something to get excited about.
Horseshoe Trail on Second Mountain
Horseshoe Trail ascending Second Mountain
Ascending Second Mountain on Horseshoe Trail
Eventually, the woods road came to an abrupt dead end. From here, we cut on a foot path through some thick young forest to the left which led us to the Buckeye Pipeline. The Horseshoe Trail followed this to the left to ascend Second Mountain. The ascent was gradual on the pipeline, and it was much more shaded than I had anticipated it would be, and lined with lovely ferns. We had some slight views off of the left side toward Stony Valley and Third Mountain.
View from the Horseshoe Trail on Buckeye Pipeline
As we continued up, we had a bit of a view to the northwest from the pipeline, and we could see it ascending Third Mountain across the valley.
Resting atop Second Mountain on the Horeshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail and a view from Buckeye Pipeline to the south
Descending Second Mountain on Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail on Second Mountain
Horseshoe Trail on south side of Second Mountain
We soon reached the top of Second Mountain. The map said there was a view here, but it wasn't much of anything really. Maybe a seasonal view, which we didn't get. There were some rock outcroppings to the left of the trail where we stopped to have some snacks.
From here, we descended on the trail, still on the Buckeye Pipeline to where it joined up with what appeared to be another utility right of way that turned left. We followed this, which soon became just another woods road. For quite a while, the Horseshoe Trail followed pleasant woods roads with gradual ups and downs along a shelf of the south side of Second Mountain.
Along the Horseshoe Trail, Second Mountain
Along Horseshoe Trail, Second Mountain
When we came to a sign board I figured we must be getting close to the road, but it wasn't to be. We continued on, and saw a giant black snake basking in the sun on the woods road.
Black Snake on Horseshoe Trail, Second Mt.
Horseshoe Trail descending Second Mountain
The woods roads started becoming smaller and lesser used as we continued. They soon began to peter out, and just as we passed what seemed like it may have been an old homestead site, we turned onto a foot path. It led to another woods road, more obscure, then to another foot path.
Horseshoe Trail on Second Mountain
The foot path led us up hill for a bit, and then came to a large rock where we found a trail register. We took a break and signed the book. We found an entry a few days prior to ours and they saw the same black snake it would seem.
Horseshoe Trail at a trail register descending Second Mountain.
Horseshoe Trail on south edge of Second Mountain
Horseshoe Trail descending Second Mountain
Horseshoe Trail on a woods road below Second Mountain
Strangely growing tree along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail in the valley between Blue and Second Mountains
We continued along the trail, which was now a more traditional nice foot path for a bit. It eventually led to more woods roads and continued to snake around following them. We were already running low on water. Fortunately, our friend "Action Adam" Stevens lent us a water purifier so I treated water from a spring to drink for a bit. I refilled all of the bottles and then caught back up with Jillane.
The trail soon came to an area where we could see ATVs had been using the trail rather heavily. We descended via another larger woods road, and along the way passed a strange looking tree that appeared to have split, and then grew vertically again.
The woods road led down hill to a building on a dirt lane. It wasn't abandoned, but didn't appear to be heavily used either. I figured this section was a reroute because there were painted out Horseshoe Trail blazes going down the road to the right. The update paper in my guide said the trail was being "improved" in this area.
Horseshoe Trail reroute at military property of Fort Indiantown Gap
Horseshoe Trail along FITG military property
The trail took us into a lovely area with a lot of ferns just to the south of the building, and then cut through a couple other woods roads and foot path sections. We then came to the border of Indiantown Gap Military Reservation. The trail took us to some sort of utility right of way and turned right following it. Apparently the trail used to go through the military property, but had to be rerouted to the border by request of some General for safety reasons.
Horseshoe Trail along military property
Horseshoe Trail at military property
We continued along the utility line, and then followed a section of woods along the border of the property. It was very pretty woods with a tiny stream flowing below us to the right. We bordered the military property for some time, descended on a nice foot path through a glen and over a sturdy foot bridge.
Horseshoe Trail north of Blue Mountain
We continued to skirt military property for a bit, and then headed away from it onto some wider pathways that were obviously heavily used by ATVs. Apparently it's legal in this area, as the HT crosses some sort of ATV preserve on private land. Jillane spotted an abandoned building just off the trail which we briefly checked out, but it didn't look like much and we were way too overheated to be interested enough to investigate.
Horseshoe Trail near Manada Gap
We continued along these woods roads and soon came to an area with a busted looking house, old school bus, and other messy looking buildings and piles of stuff. It was slightly unnerving walking through these areas clearly marked "no trespassing", but still blazed with the two by six inch yellow Horseshoe Trail blazes.
Horseshoe Trail north of Manada Gap
Along Horseshoe Trail looking south into Manada Gap
Farmland view in Manada Gap
Horseshoe Trail on a woods road in Manada Gap
Horseshoe Trail in Manada Gap
Tributary to the Manada Creek
Abandoned shed in Manada Gap
The trail headed from here through the open area, down the driveway to this crazy homestead. It made a right turn and descended out to the locked gate to the property along the Manada Creek, or a tributary to it. We took a nice break here and had a dip in the creek to cool off. It was much needed.
From here, the trail turned right on a small road, over a bridge across the creek, and then left on Rt 443. This was a narrow section of road with some abandoned houses along it on the right. We were too tired and I don't think either of us were that interested in trying to go in.
We continued past the historic Manada Inn, in the middle of Manada Gap, a gap in the Blue Mountain. When the Appalachian Trail first came through, this was the gap it crossed. It stayed on the Blue Mountain until it was closed by the military reservation. The AT was relocated further north to it's present spot. Manada Gap used to be the terminus of the Horseshoe Trail, but it had to be extended north to connect with the AT again on Stony Mountain following the reroute. From Manada Gap, we turned right on Manada Bottom Road heading slightly up hill.
Old Manada Inn in Manada Gap along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail along Manada Bottom Road
We followed the road for a bit, and then soon the trail turned off to the left on a foot path in what the guide book described as a "splendid section". We joked for the rest of the trip about areas being "splendid" and what the criteria was for such things.
Horseshoe Trail in a splendid old growth forest
Manada Creek in a splendid area south of Manada Gap
Horseshoe Trail along Manada Creek
Giant Sycamore along the Horseshoe Trail and Manada Creek
We descended to a nice spot on the Manada Creek and went for a much needed dip. It felt great to cool off on this lovely wooded river section. The woods was full of giant old trees, I suppose a true section of old growth forest. We followed the trail parallel with the creek for a while until we emerged on Furnace Road next to an enormous old Sycamore tree. We then turned left on the unpaved Furnace Road across Manada Creek
Old building along Horseshoe Trail near Manada Furnace
There was a beautiful old stone building out the road to the right, and to the left was woods. We couldn't see it, but the guide book told me the Manada Furnace was still standing, covered in vines just off this section of road.
Horseshoe Trail along Furnace Road, near Manada Furnace
We continued slightly up hill on Furnace Road and made a right turn on Ridge Road.
Along the Horseshoe Trail on Ridge Road
Horseshoe Trail along Manada Bottom
Manada Creek from Horseshoe Trail
View from Horseshoe Trail
Farm view along Horseshoe Trail
The Horseshoe Trail followed Ridge Road, a very small back road past a few homes and farms. We could see new homes put up and which buildings were older, probably the original farm houses. I thought it was strange that the mail boxes for these places were up into the driveways a bit instead of along the road where a mail carrier wouldn't have to get out of the truck.
We followed Ridge Road to Manada Bottom Road and I believe a piece of Rabbit Lane.
Along Manada Bottom Road, Horseshoe Trail
Our shadows along Manada Bottom Road, Horseshoe Trail
Along Manada Bottom Road, Horseshoe Trail
Bridge on Manada Bottom Road, Horseshoe Trail
Bridge construction along Horseshoe Trail
At Country Inn and Suites on Manada Hill, second night.
Country Inn and Suites, luxerious second night.
At Country Inn and Suites
Pool at Country Inn and Suites
Hot tub at Country Inn and Suites
xoxo
We followed the road walk sections of the Horseshoe Trail from here, and talked to a couple people we saw along the way. One was a guy who was living with his family in the farm he grew up in as a boy (he was now much older). He offered us drinks, but we were alright at this point because we were close to finished with the day. He told us the stories of how the farm was subdivided to created the small lots with homes we were passing.
We talked to another lady who told us about a unique stump she had in her yard taken from a farmer's tree down the road. She also told us about how her driveway used to be a through road until the bridge washed out and was never replaced.
Manada Bottom Road continued and took us soon under Interstate 81 and then to an intersection with Jonestown Road. The Horseshoe Trail turned left here on Jonestown, but we turned right heading down hill and over the Manada Creek on a bridge that was under construction. We turned left and were able to walk across a temporary piped spot for Manada Creek to pass through. We then came back up hill on the other side a few blocks distance where we reached Country Inn and Suites. I had been making phone calls comparing prices and such to get the cheapest. The least expensive was a dive motel under fifty dollars, but I called back the nicest, which was Country Inn and Suites and told them the difference, and they lowered it to about sixty! For that price, we got a heated indoor swimming pool, a hot tub, and breakfast!
We checked in and spent the remainder of the evening lounging and enjoying the swimming pool and hot tub, playing with their internet, and relaxing. A perfect way to end a difficult day.
xoxoxo
xoxoxo
hot
hot
I picked us up a pizza from a place across the street, and went to nearby convenience stores to get drinks and such. The pizza place was a serious hole in the wall...literally. I walked in the door asking about getting pizza, and thought I went into the wrong entrance because it was just the hallway of a house with pizza ovens directly to my right as I walked in the door. As it turns out, this was just the set up. There was a tiny register to the left, and patrons walked right out in front of the giant pizza oven. Very strange place.
We rested well, and it's a good thing because the next day would be every bit as much of a killer as the previous was!
Along Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
6/6/11 to 6/13/11 Clark's Valley to Oregon Pike (Lancaster) with Jillane Becker
DAY #3
Along Jonestown Road
Horseshoe Trail on Jonestown Road, Manada Hill
Nice yard along Horseshoe Trail and North Mill Road
Field view along Horseshoe Trail, North Mill Road
View toward Manada Gap from our hotel room window
Lounging at Manada Hill before starting off.
Our camp site on Manada Hill, beginning of day 3.
Weird pizza place on Manada Hill.
Manada Creek bridge construction on Jonestown Road
Manada Creek bridge construction on Jonestown Road
Horseshoe Trail on North Mill Road
Horseshoe Trail on North Mill Road
View from Horseshoe Trail south of Manada Hill
Middle of Rt 22, crossing on Horseshoe Trail
Taking a dip in the Manada Creek along Horseshoe Trail
Manada Creek along Horseshoe Trail
Manada Creek along Horseshoe Trail
Little bridge over Manada Creek on Carlson Road
After a nice relaxing stay at the Country Inn and Suites in Manada Hill PA, and a filling breakfast of cheese and scrambled eggs, muffins, cereal, and all sorts of other stuff, we were ready to head out for our next day. This one would be rougher than the previous because of the lack of shade and the heat and humidity. We also got a late start, nearly noon, before moving on. I bought us a bunch of drinks at the nearby mini mart to carry with us.
Jillane left a large bag of her stuff that she had overpacked, and we would come back to get it at the end of our trip.
We followed Jonestown Road back in the direction we came from the previous night, and across the bridge that was under construction over the Manada Creek. The construction worker's didn't try to stop us from crossing. We headed up hill on Jonestown Road to where we picked up the Horseshoe Trail route, and turned right on North Mill Road, past some yards with nice landscaping.
It was brutally hot, and we had to stop every time we found the least bit of shade passing through pleasant farms and residential areas.
We soon crossed over Rt 22 south of Manada Hill, and then continued on South Mill Road. As we walked, a guy who had been on a riding mower ran out into the road toward us asking "Hey, are you hiking the trail?". It was pretty obvious with our huge packs. The man's name was Greg George, and he invited us to go to his property along the route and refill our water. He told us it was good tasting, clear water that "wouldn't give you the diarrhea". He suffixed what he told us with the warning that we might get mauled by his cats. This was exactly what we needed to hear, as Jillane and I are very much cat lovers.
We continued along South Mill Road and were soon along Manada Creek in a lovely section. The water was deep enough and looked inviting, so we took a nice dip to cool off. The water wasn't too terribly cold, but still very refreshing. After our dip, we continue until Horseshoe Trail turned left up Carlson Road next to a bridge over Manada Creek, and then turned right on South Crawford Road. We could see Greg George's farm ahead, across from what he described as a place that looked like a Dude Ranch.
Horseshoe Trail along South Crawford Road
Stopping to pet cats at Greg George's farm
Petting Greg George's cats
Greg George's cats
Petting Greg George's cats along Horseshoe Trail
Petting Greg George's cats
Greg George's cats
Greg George's cats
One of Greg George's cats
Greg George's cats
Greg George's cats
We turned at Mr. George's barn and I found an old water pump that wasn't hooked up. I saw a few small buildings without water hookups. We were still doing alright with water, so I didn't think much of the fact that we couldn't find where he was referring us. We were more interested in petting the two friendly gray cats that came up to us. They had their own shelves, each with a water bowl. A third black and white cat soon came out to greet us. They all loved the attention. I noticed a large garbage can in the shed, and found that it was full of cat food, so we fed them each in their bowls.
We fed Greg George's cats
Nice view of Greg George's farm
View from Horseshoe Trail on Crawford Rd
Small plantation along Horseshoe Trail near Early Mill Road
Carrot owls along Early Mill Road
Horseshoe Trail along Early Mill Road
View from Horseshoe Trail at Trail Road
Horseshoe Trail follows this back road
View from Horseshoe Trail
Wild strawberry
We said goodbye to the cats and continued down the road a bit, and stopped next to a little creek for a snack and another break. While we sat, I think Jillane prepared some food. I had forgotten to bring cheese and tortillas I had left at our room in Manada Hill, so we had to make due with what we had.
Soon, I saw Greg George pull into his home, so I decided to head back to say hi and see about the water he'd offered us. The pump was just beyond where I'd walked, and I can't believe I missed it the first time. Mr. George had a beautiful farm, with a lovely garden. He told me some stores about people occasionally passing through on the Horseshoe Trail, such as a recent group of Amish boys complaining that the mule they had brought with them was more work than it would have been to simply walk without it.
He told me how he acquired the farm from a guy who had inherited it for a hundred bucks or something. The guy had a drug problem or something, and so he sold it for nothing, and Mr. George fixed it up and made it beautiful. He told me of how he lived off the land, grew most of his own food, and took the meat from deer off the property, very self sufficient. His wife works for PA state forest service, and they spend all of their vacations in PA state forests. They had recently completed the Black Forest Trail which Jillane and I were considering doing a while back.
He went on to tell me how blessed he feels to have a wonderful place, a wife who is his best friend, and how he's happy to get up and work every day. He had a very contagious attitude and I was happy to have met Mr. George.
Jillane thought at first he was gay because of an earring.
Horseshoe Trail along Trail Road
Farm view along Horseshoe Trail
Old tower along East Canal Street section of Horseshoe Trail
Farm view from Horseshoe Trail
Wild strawberry
wild strawberry
Where the Horseshoe Trail turns off of East Canal Street
We continued on Crawford Road out to Crooked Hill Road, where Horseshoe Trail turned left to Sandbeach Road. We turned right through a narrow area over a stream, and then the trail took us left on Early Mill Road. There was a patch of woods or a grove of some kind that had wild strawberries growing close to the ground. There seem to be two different species, and most of what we found on this trip were very bitter, but these were quite tasty.
We continued on Early Mill Road along farm lands until Horseshoe Trail turned right on Trail Road. Trail Road went through somewhat of a residential area with kids running under sprinklers. I would have loved to get in those. The people weren't as friendlly in this area as further back. The kids were asking their parents "Are they hiking?".
From Trail Road, Horseshoe Trail turned right on East Canal Street for a bit. Along the way there was a large tower that looked like it used to have a windmill sitting atop it, but now there was nothing. We passed through an open area, followed by a shady area, and then more fields until the Horseshoe Trail turned off to the along the edge of a field. Jillane caught up to show me she had found a hand full of interesting looking shells.
Horseshoe Trail along fields near Sand Beach PA
Horseshoe Trail along field edge near Sand Beach PA
Horseshoe Trail along field edge near Sand Beach PA
Shells along Horsehoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail near Sand Beach PA
We began following the Horseshoe Trail along the edge of the field. In addition to the turn blaze, there was a small sign that read "Horseshoe Trail" with a bunch of faded, illegible stuff under it. The sign was falling out of the frame into which it had been placed. This trail was really neat, sort of like trying to follow a treasure map because some sections were very easy to follow and clear, while others were a mess.
The field was cultivated with some sort of corn in it growing in rows. We walked along them with no discernible path.
Horseshoe Trail near Sand Beach PA
Horseshoe Trail along former Union Canal, nearly obliterated
The trail left the cultivated field and began to descend on an overgrown farm road toward the woods. We entered a wooded area and continued on the farm road down hill to another field, over a small silted in ditch. This ditch was the former Union Canal. I was surprised there was nothing more to it. This historic canal was now nothing more than a trench through the field, probably forgotten by most who live along it.
Hiking Horseshoe Trail along the berm of Union Canal near Sand Beach PA
I was expected the trail to follow a mowed off, nice canal towpath or berm like other canal trails I had been on, but if I hadn't read this was the canal I'd have never known it. The berm was the edge of a field with extremely high grasses which got to a point where we couldn't even see over it.
Swatara Creek along Horseshoe Trail
We made our way along the right side of the field out toward Sandbeach Road, and just before reaching the road we turned left along the edge of the field out to the Swatara Creek to cool off. I spent some time wandering up and down the banks trying to find where the best place to go in would be. It was very muddy at the bottom so it was tough.
Swatara Creek along Horseshoe Trail and Sand Beach Road
I found the best spot by walking under the Sandbeach Road bridge. Jillane and I both went in here and cooled off a bit. The water felt perfect and was very refreshing. Despite the width of the river, the water was not all that deep. I had only seen the Swatara Creek in one other location, near St. Anthony's Wilderness at Swatara State Park where Jillane and I had started a backpack a couple years prior
Jillane ascending to Sandbeach Road from the edge of Swatara Creek
Swatara Creek from Sandbeach bridge
Swatara Creek from Sandbeach bridge
Once we were good and cooled off, we made our way up to Sandbeach Road. There was not really a good path down to the creek from here, probably because across the river and downstream just a bit was a nice public park with river access. There were several kids swimming in the creek here, and they had a rope swing off into the water. We didn't bother going over there.
On sandbeach road bridge over Swatara Creek, part of Horseshoe Trail
Hershey Farms
View from Horseshoe Trail on Hershey Farms
We crosses Swatara Creek on the road bridge, and then turned left on Swatara Road briefly. The trail followed the road and soon turned right heading slightly up hill into the Hershey Farms property, open fields at this point, parallel with a driveway.
Hiking Horseshoe Trail through Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail in Hershey Farms
Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail in Hershey Farms
View of Fort Indiantown Gap from Hershey Farms
We headed up hill with no tree cover. The Horseshoe Trail book mentioned that this was one of the most scenic views along it's entire length, but I was beginning to think this was inaccurate until I gained a little elevation. There were posts with "Horseshoe Trail" written on them in addition to the blazes to show us the way through the open fields.
The view continued to get better as we ascended the hillside. At first we could see only surrounding farm lands, but soon ridges and such came into view.
To my right, I could see Blue Mountain and Fort Indiantown Gap. I thought of how Jillane and I were on the ridge behind it during our St. Anthony's Wilderness backpack.
Horseshoe Trail on Hershey Farms land
Field view from Horseshoe Trail
View of Manada Gap from Hershey Farms
Manada Gap from Horseshoe Trail
Along Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
View from Horseshoe Trail in Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail in Hershey Farms
As we reached the top, I realized what a great view this was, and got a great sense of accomplishment because it showed us exactly where we had gone. In the foreground were roads and the tree lined Swatara Creek valley. Beyond we could see the tower with the missing top we had passed on Canal Street. Farther off beyond we could see Blue Mountain and Manada Gap, and beyond that the flat top of Second Mountain was in view. Certainly a fantastic view. The trail continued up to the corner of the fields and entered the woods on a farm lane.
Horseshoe Trail in Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail on Hershey Farms land
Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms near Peffley Rd
Hershey Farms view from Horseshoe Trail
View from Horseshoe Trail on Hershey Farms property
Horseshoe Trail near Peffley Road, Hershey PA
View from Horseshoe Trail on Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail on Hershey Farms
View from Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail view t Hershey Farms
Box turtle
Box turtle on Horseshoe Trail
Box Turtle along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail on Keiffer Road, Hershey PA
View from Horseshoe Trail, Hershey PA
Continuing on Hershey Farm property, the trail came close to another field, but then turned left and kept to the woods. This was a very nice, clear section in great woods, which followed the edge of a north facing hillside. The trail passed by a small building, and then entered another field on a mowed path which turned and came out on Peffley Road.
From here, we turned briefly left on Peffley, and then right onto the yard of an old farm house and through a gate that read "no trespassing", but still had Horseshoe Trail blazes. This took us onto a farm land through a yard and then back into a section of woods. We came to another set of woods roads which looked like sort of a cul de sac farm road, and then cut off of the one side of that into yet another field.
We turned right and followed yet another field with views to the north of us toward Hershey and Palmyra. Along this section we found a nice looking box turtle.
Next, we came out on Kieffer Road and turned left through some lovely farm lands.
View from Horseshoe Trail, Hershey PA
Horseshoe Trail on Kieffer and Swatara Road
View from Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
The trail took us along Kieffer down hill to a "Y" and turned left onto Swatara Road. Along this stretch, a guy pulled over and asked us about hiking the trail, and if we needed any water. He even offered to let us stay with him, but we preferred to have more privacy, so we thanked him but declined.
Big tree in Hershey Cemetery
Big tree in Hershey Cemetery
Hershey Cemetery
Looking toward the grave of Milton Hershey
Hershey Cemetery
Looking toward Milton Hershey's grave
just paid my respects to the man who gave me kit kat bars
We soon came to the Hershey Cemetery. There was a nice large tree at the entrance where we decided to stop and take a break. Jillane commented "Today's my last day of being 23! I didn't knooooow!" in an unintentional southern accent. I continued to make fun of her for the entire remainder of the trip for silly malapropisms and such she would come up with.
While we took our break, I got my phone out and looked up motels in Palmdale, our destination for the night, that would be close to the trail. I found a good cheap one that had a swimming pool, so I booked it so we'd have nothing to worry about later on.
The Horseshoe Guide book told me the grave of Milton Hershey, founder of the chocolate empire and his namesake town, was buried at the top of the hill in this cemetery, so I decided to go and have a look.
Hershey grave site
There was a long drive with a median leading up through the cemetery, with a large monument visible at it's end. I figured this must be it.
Milton Hershey's grave. Thanks for the sweets.
When I reached the end, I found the Hershey monument. This was the home of four graves, two Hershey brothers and their wives. Milton Hershey's grave was to the left. I paid my respects and continued along back toward where Jillane was resting.
View from Hershey Cemetery
Just to the south there was a nice view into the town of Hershey. I figured this was probably one of those situations where Mr. Hershey decided his final resting place would be a location overlooking the empire he had created. Always an interesting concept.
Hershey Cemetery
Sunset over Hershey Cemetery
The sun was beginning to set, and so we headed off out of the cemetery.
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
View from Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail along Laudermilch Road, Hershey PA
The Horseshoe Trail turned away from the cemetery and Swatara Road along the edge of yet another field. We skirted the gently rolling fields of wheat heading slightly up hill and then down. I didn't know it before, but apparently Hershey owns General Mills, either that or General Mills is based out of the same town. The Hershey Farms properties were pretty much all wheat. It all made sense thinking about the cereals.
The trail made it's way from the field down hill to the busy Laudermilch Road next to some attractive but similar old brick homes. The trail turned left for a bit on Laudermilch, and passed the entrance to the Hershey Cemetery. Had I known, we could have taken a shortcut through this area past M. Hershey's grave, but the field section was lovely too.
The trail continued and turned right off of Laudermilch Road and onto a quarry access road next to a Hershey: The Sweetest Place on Earth sign.
Hershey PA sign along Horseshoe Trail
We continued along a gravel road along the edge of some more Hershey Farms fields, and then to a large seemingly unoccupied building before turning sharply to the left, along another field bordering a quarry property.
Horseshoe Trail at Hershey Farms, alon a quarry road.
Hershey Farms along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail near Hershey PA
Horseshoe Trail coming out to Lindle Road near Palmdale PA
Jesus sign along Lindle Road section of HS Trail.
It continued to get darker, but we could still see pretty well. We continued along the left side of the field along a fence of the quarry property, and at the end of the field we turned left, keeping to the tree line, and then soon left the field on another farm lane heading into some sparse woods. I wasn't sure where to go from here, a disturbed area where dirt roadways forked. Jillane took a break on a bench until I figured it out.
We continued on the trail, which was yet another quarry road leading out to Lindle Road. We turned right, following the trail along Lindle Road heading south. This section passed the distribution centers for Hershey and General Mills. We also passed a weird Jesus neon display.
During this time, the air temperature kept changing from a refreshing chill to a wave of oven warm heat, back and forth.
View over Hershey Farms toward the amusement parks
Horseshoe Trail in the dark, north side of Palmdale PA
Along Horseshoe Trail, Palmdale PA
It had now gotten quite a bit darker. The trail took us south on Lindle across the active freight railroad tracks, with some limited views west toward Hershey, and then down hill to a farm road going in on the right. We turned right on this, and continued across the open fields. We were glad to be doing this section at night rather than day. There was no shade.
The trail continued on this farm lane, and then turned left on another farm lane parallel with a golf course. We continued out to near a barn where the trail turned left across grass and out to Derry Road in Palmdale. The trail turned left on Derry Road, but we only followed it a short distance. When the Horseshoe Trail turned right on McKinley, we continued on Derry Road out to Rt 422, the main drag through the towns.
We followed the road out to the Milton Inn motel. It was so good to get a shower and be done for the day. The place had a swimming pool open to midnight, but it was full of hoodlums till late, so we didn't bother.
Relaxing at Milton Inn, Palmdale PA after a hard day.
While Jillane was cleaning up, I tried desperately to get us something for dinner. It seemed that just about everything had already closed for the night because we arrived so late. The only place that was open was the bar and grill across from the motel, so I ordered a pizza and cheese fries from there, which weren't bad at all. Jillane was very happy with the cheese fries.
DAY 4
At Milton Inn
At Milton Inn
When I woke up in the morning, I hurried off to the front of the place for the continental breakfast that was offered. There were frozen waffles in containers, so I grabbed as many as I could, and even went back for seconds. I ate several. I also brought bananas, apples, and cereal back to the room for Jillane for her birthday breakfast.
The weather forecast was worse on this day than previous days, and since it was Jillane's birthday, we stayed in Palmdale an extra night with the thought that we'd just relax for the day. We had planned on walking into Hershey and doing a tour or something only 1.5 miles away, but it never happened.
I headed out to prepare for the next day a bit by looking for a convenience store.
These wires in Palmdale were so low I could touch them if I wanted.
Low wires along Rt 422 in Palmdale PA
hottie
xoxo
Beautiful
So pretty
Hot stuff
Lovely
I left the motel and headed to the left, east on Rt 422, thinking it couldn't possibly be very far to a convenience store. I could not have been more wrong.
I passed by a construction worker along the highway, and stopped to chat about how terrible the heat was. I was actually glad we weren't out in this heat backpacking. It was just brutal. The worker told me this was his second day standing out there guarding the edge of the road, and how tough it was to handle.
I continued to walk on, and I passed a pizza place, maybe another diner restaurant of some kind, but no convenience store. I came to one spot where the utility wires from the poles were hanging so low I could have touched them with the palm of my hand!
I walked out of Palmdale and into Palmyra, which seemed like an eternity in the heat. Eventually, I came to a Turkey Hill store I think it was. I bought a couple gallon jugs of water and all sorts of other drinks, one of which I chugged right away. I realized after buying that I had to carry everything back to the room. Even though it was all bagged, it was again a terrible task.
Gorgeous
A greenhouse out of control, Palmdale PA
I stopped on my way back and chatted with the construction worker again, and warned him ahead of time that if he considered taking his lunch break or anything, don't bother trying to walk to the Turkey Hill store, it was quite a distance.
When I arrived back at the room, I was already insanely sweaty, so Jillane and I both took a bit of time to lounge by the pool and take a swim. There was no one in there, so it was nice. The previous night we had a guy joined us in the pool trying to tell us how to purchase hot tubs, so this was nice.
When we were done in the pool, we took a nice walk through town. We walked down Rt 422 to see what we could find.
Big tree in Palmdale PA
There was a greenhouse that had gotten out of control, a giant tree growing in the sidewalk and a couple others in yards, an old lady who seemed retarded lurking around her abandoned looking dilapidated house, a consignment store that sold overpriced Wal Mart brand stuff that we stopped to take a walk in (Jillane bought a hat), and a convenience store where we could buy drinks that was close to our route for the next day.
In Milton Motel
Before dinner at Milton Motel
After our little tour of what turned out to be a pretty boring town, we headed back on the same route to the Milton Motel. There was a storm brewing, which we were excited about because we didn't have to be stuck in a tent for it, but it only poured briefly with a little lightning. Barely enough to even cool everything off.
We hung out for a little bit again, and then got ready to go out to dinner at the restaurant and bar across from Milton Motel.
Fashion model look at Milton Motel
Our campsite for night 3 and 4!
Beautiful bithday girl
We went over and got ourselves a nice booth seat and a filling dinner. I believe I had something with chicken in it, and Jillane had some sort of pasta. Both of the soups offered were really good sounding: French Onion and Tomato Florentine, so we decided we'd each order soup and have half, then switch. That worked out pretty well.
After Jillane's birthday dinner
After Jillane's birthday dinner
happy
happy
Jillane looked great; even while carrying a huge backpack, she made sure to have the room for a night out dress.
We got pretty well stuffed up, but I think I might have gone back over late for a dessert for Jillane anyway. I can't remember if it was this night or the previous one.
With this day of rest, we would hopefully be ready for another long day of hiking; little did we know that we were about to start another long, tough day with unexpected setbacks. Somehow, we still managed to keep overall pretty happy, and closer together than before.
Relaxing
Mirror shot on Speedwell Forge Road
6/6/11 to 6/13/11 Clark's Valley to Oregon Pike (Lancaster) with Jillane Becker
DAY 5
We again did not get a very early start. Even I was pretty tired and nearly slept through the announcement for continental breakfast. There was no waffles when I got up this time, only a bit of cereal and some bagels or something. I brought Jillane back what I could but didn't have anything myself.
Hard to get up when we're exhausted from backpacking.
This time neither of us were really looking forward to going out in the blustery heat, even if it was supposed to be much cooler than the previous days. The thing that kept me going was the thought that there was only a few miles left of Hershey Farms, and only a couple left beyond that and we'd be back on more woods trails.
Old style gas station in Palmdale PA
We got moving and headed out along Rt 422 to where the Horseshoe Trail come down McKinley Ave where we'd left it. It went a block south of Rt 422 on East Caracas Ave, but we continued ahead another block to revisit the convenience store we were at the day before. Rt 422 in this area is called "Chocolate Highway", and whether it's intentional or not, the pavement is a chocolatey looking brown.
Along Chocolate Highway, Palmdale PA.
Sooo hot
We went into the store and got drinks and such. I can't remember all what I got, but all I can remember buying was a Snickers Marathon energy bar for breakfast, since I hadn't had anything. I had recently been eating more of the "healthier" protein bars rather than four or so Kit Kat bars a day like I had become used to doing. I wouldn't end up getting in as good shape after this backpack as on previous ones, but I did end up feeling better.
Park in Palmdale PA along Horseshoe Trail
View from Horseshoe Trail in Palmdale PA
Horseshoe Trail, Palmdale PA
Horseshoe Trail, Palmdale PA
After we had what we needed, we headed a block down hill to Caracas and turned right following the Horseshoe Trail. There was a motel right there along the way, if only I had known. We turned left off of the road into a small municipal park, and the Horseshoe Trail followed a gravel road slightly up hill to the left of it. We made our way up to a tree line, and then the trail turned right through a line of small trees onto a mowed path along one of the Hershey Farms fields. It led west briefly past a farm house and through a little bit of shade, then jogged right to the opposite side of a tree line before reaching an expanse of wide open fields.
Along Horseshoe Trail in Palmdale PA
Horseshoe Trail, Palmdale PA
View along Horseshoe Trail, Palmdale PA
View of Hershey stacks from Palmdale area
Horseshoe Trail on a tractor road in Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail in Hershey Farms
Hershey plant stacks from Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail on a tractor road
Horseshoe Trail reaching Crest Lane.
The trail left the tree line and turned left following a wide gravel tractor path. Like she had done much of the day before, Jillane opened up her black umbrella and used it for shade. This was a difficult section to walk, and it would have only been worse if we had tried the previous night. To the west of the trail, we could see the stacks from the chocolate factory, each one with "HERSHEY" written on it's side.
We continued along this tractor road for a while until it took us out on Crest Lane, a rather new looking road, and we turned left.
The trail followed Crest Lane to the left.
Hershey factory stacks from Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail along Vista Drive.
View of a school from Hershey Farms
Horseshoe Trail on southern Hershey Farms property
Hershey Farms
We followed under some trees beside some weird buildings that were either some sort of dorms or college campus buildings. We couldn't figure out exactly what they were fore.
The trail soon turned riight onto a paved pathway that paralleled Vista Drive. Along this there were more of the weird looking buildings. Jillane wanted to go investigate but I didn't want to bother them. It certainly looked private.
Horseshoe Trail turned left off of the paved path and onto another gravel tractor road acros Vista Drive to the left. We followed this up hill slightly, then turned right along a line of trees. Through the trees was what appeared to be a school ropes course, with a lot of the balance test things like logs and wires and such.
After taking a break in the shade here, we continued on as the trail on the tractor road turned away from the line of trees yet again and headed out into the direct sunlight. We continued on the farm lane until it reached Rt 322, leaving Hershey Farms property.
School along Hershey Farms property
Barn leaving Hershey Farms property
Horseshoe Trail along Rt 322.
The trail crossed Rt 322 and continued off of the road to the right of trees parallel, which at least offered us some shade now and again.
We continued parallel with Rt 322 east, and then had to come closer out to the highway when we got closer to Campbelltown. Here, we found the Campbelltown Restaurant, and I went in to see if I could get Jillane a cut of iced tea. The waitress gave us one for free, which was really nice. We continued from here a short distance more along Rt 322 and passed a sign thanking us for visiting Hershey PA.
Bidding farewell to Hershey PA along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail near Campbelltown PA
Horseshoe Trail near Campbelltown PA, Church of the Nazarene.
Horseshoe Trail near Campbelltown PA
An old trailer made with other timbers along Horseshoe Trail, Campbelltown PA
Horseshoe Trail south of Campbelltown PA
Just past here, the Horseshoe Trail turned away from the road along the edge of a lawn, part of the Church of the Nazarene. We continued across their mowed area out to a picnic table along a tree line where we took another break. After our nice shady break, we continued along the tree line to the right side of the Church of the Nazarene lawn, and saw the turn blaze. The trail now led into a farm field, which it skirted to the left. This one was pretty badly overgrown, and so Jillane made her way out to the next parallel field to the left while I stayed on the official trail route in the weeds to make sure I didn't miss a blaze. We stopped briefly to eat some Mulberries that were well ripened.
The trail continued along the field and then went slightly left into a line of trees along an old farm road. Sitting here was an old trailer manufactured out of what appeared to be old scrap logs just put onto a trailer frame.
As we walked, we came a cross a ground hog that for some reason saw fit to climb up a tree next to us. I didn't realize ground hogs would do such a thing, but it was pretty certainly one!
A ground hog climbing a tree on Horseshoe Trail
Lovely farm view from Horseshoe Trail near Campbelltown PA
Barn along Horseshoe Trail, Eby Road
We continued on the farm road in some nice shade, and soon came out to a small back road known as Eby Road and turned left. The route took us by some lovely farm lands, which I figured may be Mennonite due to the religious writings that appeared on what looked like an old fashioned billboard on the front of the barn.
Eby Road barn with a "billboard"
Farm view from Smith Road on Horseshoe Trail
Kreider Road, Horseshoe Trail
Kreider Road, Horseshoe Trail
Kreider Road, Horseshoe Trail view
Farm view off Kreider Road.
We continued down Eby Road to an intersection where Horseshoe Trail turned right on Locust, and then left on Smith Road. While we were walking Smith Road, there was a 0.9 mile stretch before the trail went back off the road, and a guy came by and offered us a ride. I wouldn't take it, but Jillane did. From there I proceeded to run along the road to get the section done quicker, but it was far too difficult to do with a heavy pack.
There were some nice farm views along the way, after getting to the top of the hill on Smith. I then turned left at the fork onto Kreider and went across a flat, very open field with a solitary brick building near the center just off the road. Just past this point I was swarmed by bees for some reason. It ws lucky that I was not stung, but I had bees all around me, all buzzing in unison and making a deathly scary sound.
I soon reached Lawn Road and turned left. Just a short distance the Horseshoe Trail turned right onto a dirt lane heading back between two houses.
Horseshoe Trail near Plainville PA
Horseshoe Trail near Plainville PA
Wild strawberry or something
Horseshoe Trail crossing a yard off of Dresher Road
Horseshoe Trail along a pond near Dresher Rd.
Fields near the Horseshoe Trail in Londonder Twp.
Horseshoe Trail in Londonder Twp where it follows a driveway
My legs after getting lost in Londonder Twp.
When I walked into the woods on the trail, I did not see Jillane anywhere. I didn't know if she went ahead or what, so I tried calling her. When I didn't see her I went back out to Lawn Road and turned back to see if she layed down, but no sign. She finally called me back to let me know she went ahead a bit.
She somehow lost the trail and had continued on the woods road, so we had to backtrack. I found a Horseshoe Trail sign covered over with leaves, and a single metal post with a yellow blazed pointing to a nearly overgrown trail, so off we went.
The section was quite nice as it passed through dense woods, and then emerged on Dresher Road where we turned right. The trail followed Dresher to where it came to a dead end abruptly, and then turned right along someone's yard and down to a small pond. There was a turn blaze on a post next to the pond that appeared to show it going right, but stepping into the woods I could see nothing there. Continueing ahead along the trail there was also nothing heading into the woods on the upper part of the yard. I opted to just bushwhack into the woods and see if I could find it. I went right and followed a woods road down hill, and then up toward another field on the other side. I could find no blazes so I turned back. I told Jillane we should just try to use the GPS and find our way across.
We began bushwhacking, which was no easy task as hot as we were. There were a few woods roads sections we were able to follow, with no sign of the yellow Horseshoe Trail blazes. We found later that the trail must have entered the woods after skirting the last yard for a bit longer. Had we only known...
We made our way close to a creek, and then to a marshy bog area. I followed the phone GPS with aerial images up to make our way to a nearby field. I made my way out first to figure out the best way, then I went back to get Jillane. We made it to the field and turned right. The access road left the field and went through a brief wooded area to another field where there was a farmer actively working on a tractor. We ignored him and skirted the left side of the field. This took us out to a driveway known as Horseshoe Trail Drive, a driveway the Horseshoe Trail followed briefly. We took a little break here, since we were back on the trail. We had cut our legs up quite a lot trying to bully through. I was looking forward to a nice easy wooded section ahead.
Horseshoe Trail east of Mountain View Heights.
Horseshoe Trail south of Mt. Pleasant PA
Horseshoe Trail heading east.
We turned left on Rt 117 very briefly, and then right onto Weaber Ave up hill. The trail turned off just a few blocks up along the edge of a yard, an easement through Mountain View Estates. The trail skirted the backs of large homes, and headed through the woods. It soon crossed the edge of a retention pond coming out of the woods once more, but then turned back in yet again. The foot path turned onto a dirt and gravel road after a bit and continued more or less east. We came near homes a couple of times, and the trail, usually on a woods road crossed over the same utility right of way I think three times total.
Horseshoe Trail heading east
I think the last time we crossed it might have been as part of a foot path. We followed a series of logging roads, although it didn't look like much logging had been going on. We passed a sign that read "tree farm" but we were glad not to see any cutting.
We finally took one of the woods roads sort of down hill to the right, and then ended up turning off onto a narrower track heading sort of up over a hillside, then beginning to descend. Although much of it looked like a foot path, I think most of this was former woods roads.
Horseshoe Trail heading southeast.
Box Turtle
Box turtle
Box turtle
Box tu rtle
We continued to slowly lose elevation for a while, and the road eventually became much larger, although still gravel and not often used. We had a nice relaxing walk down hill, and on the way we found two box turtles. Both were basking in the sun on the woods road.
The first turtle was very timid and immediately hid in his shell when we arrived. The second on simply sat there and looked at us, and did not pull into his shell at all. Only when I starting touching him did he pull in.
Box turtle
Box turtle
Pretty lake on a church property along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail nearing Rt 117.
View from Horseshoe Trail near Mt. Wilson.
Horseshoe Trail in State Game Lands 145.
Horseshoe Trail, State Game Lands 145
The trail continued to descend via the woods road, back and forth. It became wider and obviously used by vehicles on occasion. There was one pavilion looking building off to the left of the road at one point with no access to it. The road began to level off, and soon there was a pretty pond on the left side with a lot of bee boxes. This was part of a church property.
The trail soon came out to Rt 117 and then crossed directly into a parking area for State Game Lands #145. The trail skirted the left side of the parking lot, and then was mowed heading slightly down hill and around a corner. There were several mowed paths going off in all directions, with signs on them reading that horses were not allowed off of Horseshoe Trail.
Horseshoe Trail in State Game Lands 145
Lovely pond along Horseshoe Trail, State Game Lands 145
Horseshoe Trail in State Game Lands 145
Horseshoe Trail, SGL 145.
We continued to walk, and passed by a tiny brook and another pretty little pond. I had been looking forward to cooling off in the Conawego Creek for a while, and was at first disappointed if this was in fact the creek. Fortunately I was reading the map wrong and we had to cross one more road before getting to that point.
Horseshoe Trail turned right and made it's way along the edge of a field to cross Rt 241.
Horseshoe Trail just past the Rt 241 crossing, SGL 145
Horseshoe Trail bridge over Conawego Creek
Conawego Creek
The Horseshoe Trail continued on a mowed path across a field again, in what the road describes as an old Military Road. It wasn't very far from here at all that we crossed the Conawego Creek on a sturdy, wide bridge. The creek was not as large as I'd hoped it would be, but it would certainly do. We took a nice long break here and soaked ourselves in a small pool to the left of the trail bridge. I turned my phone on and called ahead to find out about stores and if they were open in nearby Colebrook.
Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Sign along the rail trail in Colebrook
After our refreshing dip in the Conawego, we continued along the Horseshoe Trail into a section of woods, and then to where it crossed the Lebanon Valley Rail Trail.
Created from the former Cornwall-Lebanon Railroad built by Robert H. Coleman in the 1880's, this rail trail goes northeast as far as Lebanon PA with future planned expansion, and to the southwest of us, it continues into Lancaster County where the trail changes names to Conawego Trail.
Walking through the Pennsylvania Dutch village of Colebrook
Warning sign on Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Lebanon Valley Rail Trail map.
The line was used to haul freight as well as passengers to a resort area just east of where we were called Mt. Gretna. It remained active until it was badly damaged during Hurricane Agnes in 1972. I think around 1999 it was turned into a trail.
We turned left off of the Horseshoe Trail to follow Lebanon Valley Rail Trail for a time.
The trail was of crushed stone surface, and was kept wide with mowed grass on either side. It looked exactly like parts of the Columbia Trail in NJ (though this one is better named). We continued along the trail into the Pennsylvania Dutch village of Colebrook.
Here, we turned left off of the trail and headed slightly down hill along some wrought iron fence to a mini mart at a gas station along the Conawego Creek. We went in to get sandwiches and food and such, and the girl behind the counter said she couldn't make a sandwich or something because they have someone else do it. It seemed kind of weird. Jillane asked her if the small eatery we saw closer to the rail trail, the "Twin Kiss Drive In" was any good. She replied that she didn't really eat out, just ate at home. She had a bit of an accent, and so I realized she must have been Pennsylvania Dutch herself, never eats out, etc. They're not as strict as the Amish, but many are set in their ways. It was neat to walk through this area and experience a bit of it because my grandmother was PA Dutch as well.
We ate a bit along the creek, and then walked back up to the Twin Kiss Drive In. Jillane got a fish sandwich she didn't like, and I forget what else. I think some cheese sticks. She also went off and picked a ton of mulberries along the road.
We continued from here back to the rail trail and turned left, heading east.
Some sort of old watering hole along Rt 117 near the rail trail
Lebanon Valley Rail Trail, getting dark.
The trail switched from a rural field feeling to more of a deep woods. We were closely parallel with Rt 117 to the right for a time, but soon moved away from it. As we turned away, there was a confluence of two branches of Conawego Creek, as well as a small lake in State Game Lands called Lake Duffy. I figured this would be a good place to try to stealth camp, but we didn't find anything. We continued walking on, and a guy and his son stopped to talk to us about our trip. The cool thing about doing backpacks like this is no one is used to seeing anyone doing it.
Lake Duffy from Lebanon Valley Rail Trail.
Giant dead tree on Mt. Gretna
The trail moved further away from Rt 117, further from the creek, and seemed to get closer to homes off to the north. We had to find a place to camp very soon as it was getting quite dark. So much of the land around us was full of dense vegetation. We were now right below and north of Mt. Gretna and so more homes would appear soon. We came to a side trail that went up hill a bit, so I decided to investigate for a spot. The first thing I found was an enourmous dead tree.
Happy in our tent on Mt. Gretna
In our tent on Mt. Gretna...before the rains came.
I called Jillane up to see the dead tree immediately. It was incredible. The remains of it had toppled over, but the base of the trunk was still there and it was enourmous. We wanted to camp near here. We both went off the trail to the right and found two spots that looked rather good. One in the tracks of a long forgotten woods road, and the other in a more level area Jillane found. We went with the latter and got the tent set up as quickly as we could.
We were pretty happy that we got all set up, and it looked like everything was going to be great, and then it began to rain.
At first it wasn't a huge problem, but then it started pouring heavily. We didn't realize it before, but our rain fly had two large holes in it. Additionally, water was coming in at another spot near our heads. It was coming in very heavily, and it was a good thing the tent was on somewhat of an incline so the water pooled up only near our feet. I tried changing how the rain fly was situated but it didn't really help. Jillane and I moved to the edges of where the water was coming in, and she put her ground pad on top of her so the water would run off from that. I woke up several times in the night to open the base of the tent and let the water run on out. My entire sleeping bag was drenched, and we were cold and wet.
DAY 6
When it started getting lighter and the rain stopped, I couldn't sleep so I got out, rung out all of my belongings, and packed up. I then decided to take a walk around the area. I got on the trail past the big dead tree and followed it in the opposite direction from the rail trail. It took me up hill, and then turned sharply right back down slightly. It went within plain sight of our camp site from the other end! That got me kind of nervous. I was worried it would end up right back at the rail trail, so I followed it out.
Our camp site on Mt. Gretna
Chairs along a creek on Mt. Gretna
Along a trail on Mt. Gretna
At the giant dead tree
The trail took me down through a small gully and back up on the other side of the tributary up on an old woods road. To the left, off the edge of the trail were two chairs overlooking the stream. I figured this place must get a reasonable amount of use, so I'd better try to get packed up a bit more.
I went back to the site to let Jillane know how visible we were, and she packed her stuff up. The tent and things were much heavier to carry this time because of the wetness, but I dealt with it. Once everything was packed up we made our way to the right to the other section of the trail. We then followed it back to the giant dead tree.
Giant dead tree on Mt. Gretna
It looked even more enormous in the morning when we could see better. It had fortunately stopped raining, and there was a mist over everything. We followed the trail back down to Lebanon Valley Rail Trail and turned right, heading east.
Along Lebanon Valley Rail Trail below Mt. Gretna
We continued along the trail heading east as it came into an area where a side trail followed the former spur line that went to some of the old recreation areas of Mt. Gretna.
Sign along Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Site of Mt. Gretna Station along Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Kiosk along Lebanon Valley Rail Trail at former Mt. Gretna spur
There a lot of benches along this trail, and we made use of quite a few of them. This was one of those spots. At the site was the foundation of the former Mt. Gretna station. There were also old pictures in a very nice kiosk of the site which included a map. I was pretty impressed with the maps of the trail aside from the fact that it was not oriented north/south.
Former Mt Gretna rail spur, now a side trail
After a bit, we continued on the trail ahead, where it was shared use as a trail and a driveway. When we reached the next grade crossing of a road it was a bit torn up.
Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Giant pipe on Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Lebanon Valley Rail Trail in West Cornwall
Old mile marker along Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Lebanon Valley Rail Trail under construction in West Cornwall Twp
Old mine road crossing for Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Old mine road view, now an abandoned route, from the bridge on Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
Old mine road crossing, Lebanon Valley Rail Trail
There were signs along the this section of the trail to use it at your own risk because it would be torn up and a mess for the next few miles. There were some giant pipes set along side the right side of the trail which we checked out.
After the road crossing, we took a little break in a pavilion, and then continued on. It seemed that the right of way was recently reworked and had a sanitary sewer put under the left side of it. The right side was more intact and easier to walk on as the left was too soft and we'd sink in the mud. This was once a double tracked rail line, and they now had horses use the left side and the hikers and cyclists use the right.
The trail continued through woods, with some homes nearby, and then became wooded again before Rt 117 appeared more closely again to the right of us. There was one more small weather shelter we used ahead, just before a redecked old railroad bridge over what was labeled as Old Mine Road. I went and checked out the bridge, and from here we had the choice of heading back toward Horseshoe Trail or otherwise heading to the town of Cornwall for an alternate route. Jillane opted for Horseshoe Trail because it might have been quicker.
We descended via a small path from the rail trail down to Rt 117, headed along it briefly to a right turn onto Old Rt 72.
Old Rt 72
Abandoned Rt 72
Abandoned Rt 72, now Horseshoe Trail
The current Rt 72 was just east of us, and now much wider, while Old Rt 72 was used as a driveway access to a house for a brief time, and then abandoned the rest of the distance until it returned to the current alignment. We ascended steeply on old 72 and passed through the gate into the closes section. We followed this for a bit, and soon the Horseshoe Trail descended to the abandoned road from the right. We skipped a long section of this trail be instead taking the Lebanon Valley Rail Trail. The Horseshoe Trail sections we missed went through State Game Lands and over what was called Governor Dick Hill. In recent years, it was more developed like a park, referred to as "The Park At Governor Dick".
Funny park sign.
Horseshoe in Spring Hill development area
Horseshoe Trail near Schearers Creek
The park sign was rather funny, with "Governor Dick Property" and a phallic looking tower on a hill.
We continued down hill on the road, and other trails turned off into the Governor Dick Property. We soon reached current Rt 72 and crossed directly. The Horseshoe Trail entered sort of a private community of homes on back roads here. We followed Spring Hill, Aspen, and Ash Lane through there, and then turned right down a dirt lane. This took us down to an intersection of dirt roads where we turned left along the Shearers Creek.
Horseshoe Trail near Shearers Creek
Power line crossing on Horseshoe Trail near Shearers Creek
Horseshoe Trail in Shearer's Creek Valley
We continued along the creek, and two branches of it were on either side of the woods road we were following. It was in somewhat of a flood level running fast. We had to cross over two spots with water which had no bridge, but we handled it. I wasn't even sure we were going the right way, so I decided to look around for blazes. I found a Horseshoe Trail sign off to the left of the woods road, either pulled off and thrown to the side, or washed down by water.
We continued on the trail, as a woods road out across a power line and then into more thick woods. It took us down hill, losing elevation parallel with Shearer Creek, and then turned left off of the woods road on a foot path in a really nice section of woods.
Horseshoe Trail in the valley of Shearers Creek
Horseshoe Trail near Shearers Creek
The foot path took us through the woods and then down across a tiny tributary. It was sort of a tease because I thought we were coming up on the main creek, and we couldn't wait to jump in. We had put off jumping in further back because it was too close to homes, and it would have been a terrible disappointment if we couldn't after waiting. We made our way back up on the foot path further to a woods road, turned left, and immediately left again on another smaller woods road. This took us down to Shearers Creek and a very nice foot bridge.
Horseshoe Trail foot bridge over Schearers Creek
Schearers Creek
The creek was certainly deep enough to take a dip. We stopped on the bridge and had a nice little meal of cheeses, and while we were sitting a guy came walking by with his dog. It was surprising to actually see someone else on the trail. During our entire trek on the Horseshoe Trail, this was the only time we saw another hike, and he came from off of the Horseshoe Trail along the creek, and then headed down the other side, so he was hardly hiking the trail.
After he was gone, we both bathed in the creek a bit, which felt fantastic.
Horseshoe Trail ascending east from Schearers Creek
Power line view along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail on power line in Furnace Hills
HT on power line in Furnace Hills
Once we were well cleaned off, we continued along the Horseshoe Trail, which followed woods roads for a while. It gradually ascended through some wet areas of the Shearers Creek valley, and then ascended Furnace Hills, and emerged on the power line.
We turned right here, with a bit of a view looking back across the Shearers Creek valley from which we had just come up.
Horseshoe Trail on a power line, Furnace Hills PA
HST on the power line
Horseshoe Trail on a power line in Furnace Hills
HST on a power line
Pretty flowers along Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail in the Furnace Hills near a power line
Horseshoe Trail in Furnace Hills
We followed the power line for a bit, and then we had some hope to get back in the woods as the road left the line and went right, but then it came back left onto the power line. There were a lot of ups and downs on the route, and it reminded us of the backpacking trip we did last year where we did a great deal of mileage on power lines.
The trail just seemed to go on and on along the power line. It turned away one more time again, but then returned, giving us more false hope. It was brutally hot and humid, so this section took a lot out of us.
At one point there was a railroad spur that seemed to come in from the right, but I'm not sure what it was. Possibly a mine or something, because we later found the main line rail right of way further to the south.
We continued on the power line, and were soon able to hear the sounds of children's voices playing at a YMCA camp, formerly a little resort community known as Penryn Park. The trail continued on the power line beyond here, and then eventually turned off to the right on a foot path out to the access road to the camp.
On Horseshoe Trail in Furnace Hills, along power line
When we got to the access road to the camp, there was a ball field directly across, and the trail turned right to follow the dirt access road. One truck drove by and just gave us a wave. To the right of this road was an abandoned railroad right of way that used to go through to the town of Cornwall, and serviced Penryn Park, once a popular amusement spot. It was now the Kiwanis Camp of the YMCA.
Horseshoe Trail sign at Penryn Park
The trail followed the road for a bit further, and then made a left hand turn off of it before reaching the main camp area. It descended slightly to the lovely little Chickasalunga Creek which it crossed on a nice foot bridge.
Horseshoe Trail crossing Chickasalunga Creek
The creek flowed back and forth in an interesting route. I got out the water filter Action Adam had lent us and refilled our supply, which still remained somewhat brown even after filtering it.
Chickasalunga Creek near former Penryn Park
Chickasalunga Creek bridge on Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail at Kiwanis Camp, former Penryn Park
After cooling off at the creek, we continued along the Horseshoe Trail, which had a couple of connector trails heading toward the Kiwanis camp.
Trees with strange growing root systems at the site of a former building, Penryn Park
Tree roots at a building foundation, Penryn Park in Furnace Hills
Strangely growing roots
Horseshoe Trail ascending southern Furnace Hills
Evergreens in Furnace Hills
Along the stretch in the more level valley of the Chickasalunga Creek Jillane spotted something interesting; an old building foundation of masonry construction with three trees growing with exposed roots. The trees were all suspended several inches above the ground within the building foundation. I would guess that these trees began growing when there was still a wooden base to whatever building was there. These roots made their way between the boards, and when they had completely rotted away the trees were strong enough to remain slightly above ground. Quite an interesting sight to see.
We continued on the Horseshoe Trail which headed up hill in the southern Furnace Hills on a nice foot path, and some old woods road routes that were deeply rutted.
Horeshoe Trail ascending through Furnace Hills in State Game Lands 156
Horseshoe Trail heading up Furnace Hills toward Cornwall Tower site.
Towers along Horseshoe Trail atop Furnace Hills on Fire Tower Road.
We continued to ascend past some nice evergreen grove, and then leveled off at the top of the hillside. The foot path led us out to Fire Tower Road, a gravel road at this point, and turned sharply left. The road took us past several different towers of different kinds. One looked like a microwave tower. Fire Tower Road was given that name because it was once the site of a state fire tower. As we walked, we came to an old stone building that was associated with the tower. There was a guy sitting on the front porch, talking on the phone. Apparently the old building was still used for something.
Old stone building where Cornwall Fire Tower used to be
We could see near the building the four concrete bases on which the original Cornwall Fire Tower would have stood. It would certianly have been a great view. It's a shame we didn't have it to climb.
Horseshoe Trail on Fire Tower Road
We continued following the yellow blazes of the Horseshoe Trail as they descended on Fire Tower Road. To the right, we had some slight views to the south, but nothing really good. The guide book showed there was a view up here, but we didn't find any.
Horseshoe Trail at State Game Lands 156, Furnace Hills
We continued down hill on the road for a bit, which at this point became paved. We took one break along the paved section before going back on into the woods.
When Fire Tower Road made a hairpin turn to the left, Horseshoe Trail continued straight in State Game Lands 156 at a parking area.
Horseshoe Trail in Furnace Hills, State Game Lands 156.
There was a couple places while we were on the road where small paths led down hill to the right in State Game Lands 156, with "no horses" signs on them. All looked pretty well used. The Horseshoe Trail was no exception, save for the no horses signs. The trail was well worn and quite nice. The treadway was soft and easy to walk on and the foot path was wide. Other trails broke off throughout this area.
Horseshoe Trail in Furnace Hills, State Game Lands 156
Trail map for Rannels-Kettle Run Trail from Horseshoe Trail
Horseshoe Trail in SGL 156
South trail head to Rannels-Kettle Run Trail
As we walked along the trail following a sort of ridge crest, there was a side trail that appeared to be marked pretty well to the right, called the Rannels-Kettle Run Trail I believe. There was a small laminated map on a tree that showed where the trail went, away from the Horseshoe Trail to descend the ridge a bit, and then return to Horseshoe Trail further down along the ridge. We didn't take this one this time, and instead continued on Horseshoe Trail.
The trail took us several times up and down through saddles of the ridge, to higher points, and then back down, but overall losing elevation each time.
We came to one final higher point and descended more steeply to the right down the ridge. After losing a lot of elevation we passed a large wooden sign marker at the other end of the Rannels-Kettle Run Trail, where it was marked as a separate preserve to the side.
Horseshoe Trail continued to descend through woods, and then came very close to a home and a yard off to the left. I was ahead of Jillane here, and descended to soon reach Pumping Station Road at a small parking area.
The northern terminus of the Conestoga Trail on Horseshoe Trail on Pumping Station Road
Monument at the site of Peter Grubb's Iron Forge
Mirror shot on Speedwell Forge Rd.
The parking area had a sign which marked the beginning of the Conestoga Trail. This long distance trail system which begins here at the Furnace Hills and makes it's way south along many creeks through Pennsylvania Dutch and Amish country to the Susquehanna River where it terminates at the Mason Dixon Trail (another long distance trail) 61 miles away. I was excited to start another new trail and to get off of the Horseshoe Trail.
Conestoga Trail near it's northern terminus
We began following the trail blazes, which varied right from the beginning from an absolute orange to a light pink, to a mauve sort of color that seemed a cross between the two. We followed Pumping Station Road to an intersection and turned right, and followed Speedwell Forge Road, then to the left. We continued south along the road and soon passed beneath Pennsylvania Turnpike. Just beyond, the trail turned off of the road to the left. I was surprised to see that the trail was pretty well mowed here.
Conestoga Trail near PA Turnpike
The trail weaved around a little bit and soon came out along the Hammer Creek, which was flowing very strong with brown water from the heavy rains the night before.
Conestoga Trail ascending along the PA Turnpike
The trail turned left and began to climb steeply up the embankment to the PA Turnpike, using water bar type things as well as placed cement blocks steeply. The trail came over the top of the Hammer Creek bridge overpass for the Turnpike, and crossed it here, then descended the other side in the same steep fashion.
Hammer Creek crossing on Conestoga Trail along PA Turnipke
After going through this very strange spot, I thought to myself that this was going to be an awesome trail. I had reservations about it because I knew it would include a lot of road walking further to the south, and I figured this section included a county park property, so maybe it was maintained better. The next day would show us the truth of what the trail could be.
Conestoga Trail descending along PA Turnpike
Conestoga Trail west of Brickerville
Conestoga Trail in woods west of Brickerville
Conestoga Trail view west of Brickerville
Conestoga Trail west of Brickerville
We continued along the trail through some really nice woods, which had some nice big trees. The pathway was still very well cleared. It led us out to a field, and then turned left, skirted the edge, and entered more woods again. We crossed over a small tributary and made our way up along another field and continued east, then turned south along the edges of fields again. There were clouds building up in the skies around us, so we knew we'd have to start looking for a camp site pretty soon. My plan was to try to find a spot that would be somewhat close to the water so we could get in and clean off a bit. It seemed like nearby Speedwell Lake would be the best place, so we made that the goal.
The sun behind Cumulonimbus clouds from Conestoga Trail
As we made our way further into the field, there were incredible clouds above us, and we had a view back behind us of the Furnace Hills where we had just been. We could see the many towers we walked by up on the ridge, which soon were out of sight as we left the field.
A viw back from the direction we had come in the Furnace Hills
Conestoga Trail west of Brickerville PA
Utility line view along Conestoga Trail
View of Brickerville PA from Long Lane
Furnace Hills view from Long Lane
The trail took us along the edge of the field with the occasional blazed post. I carried a guide I printed out from the internet on the trail, which was very well done and detailed more than the Horseshoe Trail guide was.
We soon came out to Long Lane. Conestoga Trail turned left here for a short distance, then crossed and went into woods in what seemed to be an old quarry property or something. The village of Brickerville was just to the east of here, and I found on my phone that there was a Turkey Hill convenience store here, so Jillane went ahead to scout for a camp site while I ran along Long Lane out toward Brickerville to try to get us some refreshments.
As I ran the road, I came to a few homes and was able to see the settlement ahead to the right. To the left of me I could see the Furnace Hills, and I was glad we were not climbing back up onto those to finish off our day.
Interesting history marker in Brickerville PA. I'm assuming this was somewhere near Blueball?
There was an interesting history marker as I got into town. I ran into the Turkey Hill, and Jillane texted me the stuff she wanted me to get for her. I sat my pack down next to the counter, and one of the guys working was good enough to help me find every item I needed fast. He was looking at his cell phone weather saying that we got lucky, that two storm cells had just barely missed us, but that another one was heading for us and will certainly hit, maybe as soon as an hour.
I hurried along, got some snacks and drinks, including a gallon jug of water which I poured into my camelback container.
Conestoga Trail south of Long Lane near Brickerville
I ran as quickly as I could, at some points shuffling back along Long Lane to return to the Conestoga Trail. I hurried up onto the trail, which skirted a secondary creek on the left, then crossed it as it made it's way along a small ledge. Jillane was waiting for me for a while at a bench having not found a good camp site. She moved on beyond here and found a little spot in a gully directly along the trail. After the bench area it turned sharply right down to the edge of the other tributary again. I didn't like the idea of being right on the trail, so we moved further on along the edge of the tributary high above it.
Conestoga Trail along Speedwell Forge Lake
It was starting to get dark, and the storm was coming fast. We were soon along Speedwell Lake, and we scoured the area for the best place for a tent. There was one high above the lake, and another couple down at the shore. We started unpacking and trying to get set up, but before I even got the tent out, we got stuck in a downpour.
The rain came down terribly hard for about an hour. Jillane and I just watched the clouds thinking it would have to let up after a bit. It was tough to just wait there with nothing to do but get soaked and wait.
When it let up just barely enough, we hurried and set the tent up. In order to stop the water from coming in like it did the night before, I put a plastic garbage bag as well as my rain poncho over top of the tent before putting the rain fly on. The rain fly still leaked, but this time the water mostly ran over the plastic underneath. During the course of the night, the plastic I put on slipped off a bit, and a little water got in. We didn't get a very good night's sleep for another night, but this would be the last night we'd have to spend in that terrible tent. The next day would give us positive experiences that improve our moods immensely.
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
6/6/11 to 6/13/11 Clark's Valley to Oregon Pike (Lancaster) with Jillane Becker
DAY 7
Jillane and I had another hellish night camping out along the edge of Speewell Forge Lake, deep into Pennsylvania Dutch Country, with two days left of our trip remaining.
The water had come into our tent for the second night and puddled up at the bottom, but I was able to curb the amount by placing bags and ponchos over the top between the tent and tattered rain fly.
Our campsite on Speedwell Forge Lake
We could hear people nearby in the night. Across the lake were buildings and maybe some kind of pavilion, but we were hidden from those through trees that grew dense along the shore. In the morning the lake was a mess with runoff, and debris was floating right onto the shore. Not exactly a good swimming spot.
Camp site on Speedwell Forge Lake
I woke up and packed up my stuff first. We were close enough to the Conestoga Trail and fishing spots that it was prudent to get out of that quickly. Jillane got up and we were packed quite fast.
Conestoga Trail along Speedwell Forge Lake
Conestoga Trail just north of Blantz Road.
Speedwell Forge Lake along Conestoga Trail
We got back on the trail and followed it along the shore of Speedwell Lake on the ridge above the east side. The trail then took us through some woods, along a field, and out to a gravel drive to a Bed and Breakfast. We followed this to Blantz Road where the trail turned right to Brubaker Valley Road.
Speedwell Forge Lake along Conestoga Trail
Speedwell Forge Lake along Conestoga Trail
Speedwell Forge Lake along Conestoga Trail
Speedwell Forge Lake along Conestoga Trail
Speedwell Forge Lake along Conestoga Trail
At Speedwell Forge Lake
At Speedwell Forge Lake
Messy legs from the mud
The trail followed Brubaker Valley Road over a causeway and a bridge to cross Speedwell Forge Lake, which offered us a nice view of the spot we camped. We also had a nice view of the farm lands adjacent to the lake. After the bridge, the trail turned left, but we checked out the upper end of the lake briefly to see if there was a pavilion. It turned out some of that land that we thought was developed park was all private. There was only a portajohn, no restrooms.
The trail turned into the parking area of a boat launch where we stopped to take a little breakfast break. We knew we were in hicksville when one of the fishermen wandered over to the portajohn, which was a handicapped accessible one, and after coming out shouted out with glea to his friends "You could have a square dance in there!!!". I greeted another fisherman as we went by, and his response was "howdy". I never considered Pennsylvania to be in the south, but there certainly must be these enclaves.
Speedwell Forge Lake
Messy runoff water at Speedwell Forge Lake
Conestoga Trail along Speedwell Forge Lake
View from Conestoga Trail of Speedwell Forge Lake
Tributary feeding Speedwell Forge Lake
Conestoga Trail at Speedwell Forge Lake
Conestoga Trail on the boat launch road
Speedwell Forge Lake from Conestoga Trail
Conestoga Trail at Speedwell Forge Lake
Dam spillway at Speedwell Forge Lake
Spillway dam at Speedwell Forge Lake
Spillway of Speedwell Forge Lake
We rested for a little while along the shore of the lake, and then moved along following the Conestoga Trail south. The trail remained quite clear, but on this side rather than being a mowed path it was a well cleared foot path. It followed close to the shore line, but turned in from time to time. We passed one more fisherman along the trail, and came to the edge of Zartman Mill Road. The trail paralleled this in a narrow strip of land between the road and the lake. Along this stretch we found some more giant trees. We would see many giant impressive trees along the way which we didn't really recognize. At least some of them we determined to be very old Ash trees. They became as common to see as the giant Sycamores and Yellow Poplars we were used to seeing large during the last two days of our trip.
The trail continued to be very nice and emerged on the gravel access road to a second boat launch. We followed this, and then turned right parallel with the lake for a short time more. We emerged at the spillway dam of Speedwell Forge Lake where there was a guy and his kids fishing.
Conestoga Trail below Speedwell Forge Lake
Conestoga Trail below Speedwell Forge Dam
Lightning had struck this small tree the night before, incredible.
This tree had been struck by lightning just south of Speedwell Forge Dam.
The trail followed a wide path down hill parallel with the Hammer Creek, and soon we could see some residences on the other side. This was a beautiful section as it came closer to the creek on a good foot path. We soon came upon a tree that had been peeled off like a banana, apparently struck by lightning the night before. Quite incredible.
Hammer Creek and Conestoga Trail approaching Old Pike
Hammer Creek from Old Pike
Conestoga Trail just south of Old Pike
The trail continued in a nice section along Hammer Creek. As we walked the trail approaching Old Pike, with a bridge over the creek, I heard clopping. I knew before seeing it what it was, and I said to Jillane to look. She turned to see an Amish buggy go across the bridge. She was so happy to see her first Amish person in real Amish country, not like the tours of Lancaster.
The trail turned left on Old Pike to cross the Hammer Creek, and then turned right into a woodland parallel with it heading down stream.
Conestoga Trail south of Old Pike
Hammer Creek south of Old Pike
Flooded section of Conestoga Trail along Hammer Creek
Hammer Creek
I started having more hope for the conditions to expect with Conestoga Trail. It was well mowed below Old Pike, and calm easy walking. It reminded me a lot of the South Branch Trail in Hunterdon County Parks that I used to mow. There were signs that read walking only, not horseback riding or boating.
Giant tree, presumably Ash, along Hammer Creek, Conestoga Trail
As we continued along the trail, which turned away from the creek a bit in a wider flood plain, we came across another enourmous tree. I think this one was also an Ash.
Farm view from Conestoga Trail
Conestoga Trail east of Rt 501.
We continued along the path until it came out to Furnace Hills Pike, Rt 501. We turned right and followed along 501 to cross the Hammer Creek yet again, then immediately headed down along the creek side opposite. The trail remained nice and easy, but then we got to a spot where there was a small tributary inlet or something. The trail route was completely under water. I walked through and guided Jillane across on a log.
Flooded section of Conestoga Trail east of Rt 501
On the other side, the trail ascended the hillside above the creek very steeply above the creek for a bit, then descended back down when the flood plain was wide enough.
Conestoga Trail east of Rt 501.
Conestoga Trail mill race crossing
Conestoga Trail mill race crossing
Conestoga Trail mill race crossing
Dam on Hammer Creek
Nice shell
Hammer Creek view, Conestoga Trail
A foot bridge over a mill race
Conestoga Trail along a mill race near Snavely's Mill
View from Conestoga Trail near Snavely's Mill
Conestoga Trail view near Snavely's Mill
Conestoga Trail and mill race near Snavely's Mill
Ducks on an old mill race
View from Conestoga Trail near Snavely's Mill
The trail soon reached the upstream end of an old mill race and a small dam on the Hammer Creek. It was surprising to see that the trail crossed right over the narrow concrete edge of the inlet for the mill race.
I crossed and then held Jillane's hand going over the crazy concrete structure, that was rather slippery on the far side. From here, we continued on the Conestoga Trail heading south following closely to the old mill race. We passed by a tiny foot bridge, which fortunately the trail did not utilize, and then the mill race became extremely wide to where it looked like one of the old canals. We continued along it with lovely farm views until we came into view of Snavely's Mill. The trail took us right out to Snavely's Mill Road between the Hammer Creek and the mill race.
The original mill at this site was on the opposite bank of the creek, and was built in the 1700s. In the later 1800s the mill burned and was replaced by Snavely's Mill. This mill also burned in 1985, and I figured that by reading the guide it would have been destroyed, but this was not the case. The mill building was not only saved with it's original masonry, it was added on in the most peculiar way, with all of the new stuff added around the original. Quite interesting.
When we reached Snavely's Mill Road, we took a walk over by the old mill to have a look. Some of the old mill race area was still visible, and the outside of the building still bore the Snavely's Mill name.
Snavely's Mill, much altered and still in use.
Snavely's Mill on it's namesake road.
We took a break along Hammer Creek here, under a giant willow. I know the original mill that was on the opposite bank had Willow in the name, Willow Bank Mill, and I wondered if this old one was around back in those days.
After our break, we crossed Hammer Creek on the bridge, and then turned right through a large gravel parking area for tractor trailers. We skirted the edge of this property, and the trail descended toward the creek again on a mowed path next to a giant furnace presumably for burning garbage. Quite a sight.
Giant garbage burning furnace near Snavely's Mill on Conestoga Trail
We followed along the creek, and to the right we could see the rear of the Snavely's Mill, with a lot of new giant silos, and there was a truck being filled with some sort of crop while we walked by on the opposite bank.
Snavely's Mill rear from Conestoga Trail
Along Conestoga Trail near Snavely's Mill
Jillane's shoes
Rope swing area into Hammer Creek below Snavely's Mill
Weird tree growing into Hammer Creek
Conestoga Trail below Snavely's Mill
High water on Hammer Creek
High water on Hammer Creek
The trail continued along the edge of some open area, and then went into more of a tree lined spot. There were trees that seemed to grow far out into the Hammer Creek, and the trail seemed to descend closer to the water level. This proved to be a problem, because in many places it flooded right over the trail. Jillane switched into her aqua shoes to do the remainder of the day because it got so wet.
We continued to where there were homes on the left side of us, and the trail had blazes that also went that way while the mowed section went straight. I chose to follow the mowed section, which was also blazed. I suppose they had tried to reroute it at some point but it wasn't possible to maintain. After returning to the regular blazes (some were obviously older), the trail turned away from the creek and up to the left next to a small tributary with a dam. There was a very nice old house along the creek ahead as we turned right on I think Sleepy Hollow Road.
Flooded over Conestoga Trail below Snavely's Mill
Nice old house along Conestoga Trail near Brunnersville Rd
Little dam on Conestoga Trail near Sleepy Hollow Rd
Nice view along Conestoga Trail near Brunnersville Rd
Sleepy Hollow Rd along Conestoga Trail
The trail turned right and soon headed out to Brunnersville Road. We again crossed the Hammer Creek on the bridge for Brunnersville, and then turned left again into some narrow woods along the creek's edge.
Conestoga Trail below Brunnersville Rd
Conestoga Trail in farmland near Brunnerville Rd
Conestoga Trail near Brunnerville
Conestoga Trail in farmland near Brunnerville
Conestoga Trail near Brunnerville
Farm land near Brunnerville
The trail passed close to the creek for a bit, but then it turned away a bit. We made our way up hill away from it, and then ended up in a really cool line of slightly fallen or strangely growing trees. The trail took us through these, which with packs were somewhat difficult to navigate, but we managed.
There were electric fences off to the right of us, but we kept to the left of them at first. The line of trees led us out to a point where we had to turn right. We might have gone under one electric fence at this point. There were a few places. We had to take our packs off and slide under them to move on. We went under a fence which took us into a wide open field, and we skirted another electric fence out to the end, and then turned left to crawl under yet another.
Conestoga Trail, which requires going under electric fences near Brunnersville...no joke!
Farm view from Conestoga Trail near Brunnersville
Conestoga Trail on Hackman Road
Taking a rest on Hackman Road
The trail took us from here out across yet another field, in view of the bridge over Hammer Creek on Hackman Road. I could see one blaze off in the distance, but there didn't seem to be a defined route of where we should be, so we aimed for a hole in the fence out to Hackman Road and then turned left. We continued on along the road and crossed Hammer Creek on the bridge. The Conestoga Trail turned off of the road just past to skirt another field. We sat down next to the road bridge at the end of the guard rail for a break.
Taking a break along Hackman Road, Conestoga Trail
Hammer Creek from Conestoga Trail, Hackman Road
Conestoga Trail south of Hackman Road
Conestoga Trail south of Hackman Road
Conestoga Trail south of Hackman Road
Farm view from Conestoga Trail
The guard rail was an obviously posted "no trespassing" area, but we stayed a bit off of it. Jillane got out her sterno stove and made some raman noodles for lunch while we were stopped here. A couple guys dressed up all white collar came by to scope out the creek for paddling later on while we were there.
It must have looked pretty crazy with two people and giant packs sitting along a back road, on an obscured public trail eating noodles.
After our break we continued on the Conestoga Trail, turned right into a field of low corn above the creek level. It led us around a corner and a line of trees, then back down to the edge of the creek in a roundabout way. These fields were quite wet, so it was pretty necessary to stay on the trail route.
Conestoga Trail near Brunnerville
Conestoga Trail near Brunnerville
Conestoga Trail near Brunnerville
View from Conestoga Trail
Farm stuff along Conestoga Trail west of Clay Road
We continued only along field edges for this section. There was still mowing, but it was wider and didn't seem to focus on where the trail should be like other places. We were just following the odd blaze here and there. There were tons of deer stands, and there was a rope swing off into the Hammer Creek.
The trail turned left away from the creek slightly again, to follow the edge of the field. This strange section seemed nothing like a trail, but we even came across an irrigation water tank that was still usable with an orange blaze painted on it. I had never seen a piece of equipment blazed in this way, which I found incredibly odd. We moved on to pass more farm equipment on the way out to Clay Road.
Before we reached the road, another Amish buggy went by us heading up the road. Just seeing such a way of life, totally real around us was enough to make me even happier than I already was, and I think Jillane felt the same.
We reached Clay Road, and the trail turned right to cross the Hammer Creek on the road yet again. It then turned left off the road through a high grassy path.
Conestoga Trail below Clay Road
Conestoga Trail below Clay Road
The overall feel of the Conestoga Trail since we got onto it had been rural, although there were some nice woods sections, but each part was so diverse. This section with the high grass and prairie sort of feel was the same sort of thing, constantly changing.
Conestoga Trail stile over a farm fence
Conestoga Trail stile over a farm fence
The scenery changed yet again when we went into a section of woods, and then emerged at another farm where there was a stile over an electric fence, much like the ones on the Appalachian Trail in northern NJ and other places. We crossed the stile and were now in an open field with a few trees.
Horses along Conestoga Trail
There were horses roaming among us, and we had to watch for the mounds of horse shit as we walked. We headed to the left and followed pretty closely to the Hammer Creek.
Weirdly growing tree along Hammer Creek from Conestoga Trail
Hammer Creek along Conestoga Trail
There was a weird tree growing out of a rock outcrop on the opposite shore, and as we walked we could see the opposite shore had a lot of strange exposed rocks. We ended up having to cross a wet area and gain more height on the land, and then continue following the Hammer Creek to the other side of the horse field.
Conestoga Trail in a horse field
At the end of the field was yet another electric fence. I threw my pack over and crawled underneath. Jillane didn't believe that this one was electrified until she got a good jolt of it. I think this one was probably the strongest of the fences we crossed based on her reaction!
I helped her with her bag and we both moved on along the trail, which became nice and mowed again on the other side.
Conestoga Trail north of Lincoln Road
The mowed section of trail took us through a section of woods, and then onto a lawn area with all sorts of planted trees that actually looked like some sort of community park, although it probably wasn't.
Conestoga Trail north of Lincoln Road
Hammer Creek from Lincoln Road section of Conestoga Trail
Conestoga Trail near Lincoln Road
Jillane's muddy shoes
Conestoga Trail on farm roads below Lincoln Road
Hammer Creek from Conestoga Trail view near Lincoln Road
Hammer Creek near Lincoln Road
Conestoga Trail on a farm land near Lincoln Road
Conestoga Trail near Carpenter Road
The trail continued slightly to the right across Lincoln Road. We crossed a mowed yard of some sort, and then the blazes seemed somewhat obscure. I just used my guide to try to show me where to go. It appeared that some debris had been moved along the edge of the field beyond, and so the trail probably was made obscure. We cut onto the edge of a field and then turned right. It was insanely muddy. Pretty soon I saw blazes along the far edge of the field, so we kept going. There was an opening at the end of this field which I assumed the trail would use.
We cut through to the next field, and we were able to walk the perimeter to the left much more easily. This was indeed the trail, as we were able to find blazes again. The route followed along the Hammer Creek on farm lands, across this field and through another section of woods. It then emerged onto yet another field closer to the creek and made it's way out to Carpenter Road next to a splendid little bridge. We took another break here, and Jillane crossed the bridge to sit by the creek and cool off.
Jillane taking a dip off Conestoga Trail near Carpenter Road
Conestoga Trail below Carpenter Road
Conestoga Trail below Carpenter Road
Conestoga Trail below Carpenter Road
We continued across Carpenter Road onto a section of trail with more high weeds again. We were able to follow the blazes, but they split pretty soon on. It at first kept to the creek side, but then I took the left fork and Jillane took the right, if you want to even call it a fork at all. We both called out to each other, and both of us were seeing Conestoga Trail blazes. Her route I think was some sort of old farm lane or something while mine looked to be a route that was at some point mowed, but not recently. Both routes soon came together and we moved on.
Approaching a foot bridge over Hammer Creek
Foot bridge over Hammer Creek
Conestoga Trail below Carpenter Rd
The trail continued to follow the edge of fields after emerging from a somewhat wooded area, and turned away from the creek to the right. It followed a tree line and then crossed a land bridge over a trench, then returned to creek side. Soon, we came into view of an awesome foot bridge spanning the creek. This was unfortunately not for the Conestoga Trail, as it led to a private home. We continued beyond the cool bridge along more fields.
Conestoga Trail below Carpenter Rd.
Taking a dip at a fording point on Hammer Creek
Taking a dip at a fording point of Hammer Creek
Taking a dip in Hammer Creek
We continued along the trail, close to the creek, and soon came to a spot where farm vehicles normally ford the creek to access their fields. It was brutally hot and humid, and so this was the perfect hard surface spot to stop and bathe in the creek. We both got in and cooled off a lot. We joked that we were now probably covered in cow manure. This can't be too far from accurate, because as soon as we got out of the refreshing although brown water, we were inundated with horseflies and mosquitoes. Even I, who hardly ever use bug spray, doused myself in the stuff Jillane had brought. We then continued on along the trail following the farm lane, and then skirting a wetland restoration area.
After this area, we reached a slope along Hammer Creek, and the Conestoga Trail switched back to climb to the top and continue high above the level of water.
Big Beech trees along Conestoga Trail north of Buch Mill.
The trail was nice, and had some really tight areas with steep sides dropping off to the creek. We also came across some really nice, large trees. Some were beech, and others were what we assumed to be Ash again.
Conestoga Trail north of Buch Mill
Giant tree along Conestoga Trail north of Buch Mill.
Hammer Creek from Conestoga Trail
Conestoga Trail near Buchs Mill Road
This was one of the nicest sections of woods we had been on in a while, but unfortunately we couldn't really enjoy it because we were completely inundated with bugs. Mosquitoes, horseflies, they were all after us in a bad way. Even with Jillane's bug spray, there was no avoiding them. We hurried through this otherwise pretty section out to Buch's Mill Road. After we got to the road, the bugs seemed to stop. We turned right here.
View from Conestoga Trail on Buch's Mill Road
Swing along Buch's Mill Rd.
Conestoga Trail in Pine Hill Road.
We followed the road into a beautiful little community with wonderful old stone houses situated on the corner of Buch Mill Road and Pine Hill Road. One had a little swing in the yard. We were sick of road walking from the previous days hiking, but this little stretch of it seemed quite welcome. We turned left on Pine Hill Road past a nice little farm. My guide book described a slightly alarming section ahead: it said the landowner did not allow cutting and blazing, so don't try to do either on this section! We would have to rely solely on the guide in order to navigate.
Unmarked section of Conestoga Trail below Pine Hill Rd.
The guide described the curve in Pine Hill Road, and how we turn left here. We headed up hill slightly, which had no real heavy brush, to the edge of a cultivated field and turned left. We continued along the edge of the field for a while until there was a path going in. We did see the random blaze, but we came across an alarming sign that read that the trail was closed until the landowner's trail cam was returned. We had come in too far to turn back now, so we continued through anyway.
The path was pleasant enough at first, but soon became a bit rough.
Terrible Stinging Nettles along Conestoga Trail's official but unmaintained section.
There seemed to be several routes, some were just animal trails and only one could have been the real Conestoga Trail. We saw an occasional blaze here and there, but then we lost them all together. We found what probably was the trail, but the route was completely covered in Stinging Nettle, some of the worse ever. In addition to the nettles, we were also getting eaten alive by bugs. We were hurrying through to get away from this, and both of us got pricked by the nettles quite a lot.
The guide told us to follow the creek pretty much, but we ended up in a field where we couldn't quite figure out where to go. I pulled out my phone for GPS, which saved us here. We skirted the edge of another field, and then followed a line till we saw Erb's Covered Bridge. The guide told us to head toward the covered bridge when we saw it. There was one blaze on the masonry of the south abutment.
Erb's Covered Bridge, Conestoga Trail
We were so happy to be out of that rough section. The entire route so far had been great except this one piece. We had a nice long rest at Erb's Covered Bridge. Built in 1887, it was an eighty foot long bridge in a nice little farm area. As we sat on the bridge, people from a house across from where we came out appeared at their mail boxes staring at us. Jillane said that they were yelling at her coming across the field. I think we came out not where the trail was supposed to go, but oh well.
Erb's Covered Bridge
Erb's Covered Bridge
Erb's Covered Bridge
Erb's Bridge Road, Conestoga Trail
We left the bridge and continued on the Conestoga Trail route which followed Erb's Bridge Road up hill. The people had left the mail box, and some drove away. The few people who remained there said hello when I greeted them, so there was no problem.
The trail soon turned left on Millway Road above Hammer Creek. We continued on Millway Road, and passed a house with a religious sign out front.
Religious sign along Conestoga Trail on Millway Road.
Conestoga Trail on Millway Road
Conestoga Trail at view at Meadow Valley
Meadow Valley Road bridge replacement.
As we continued on Millway, we could hear thunder. There was a storm coming soon. A guy rode by on a bicycle, and said while swiftly passing "storm's comin'". We moved along to try to avoid it.
We soon came to Meadow Valley Road where the trail turned right. To the left, the bridge on Meadow Valley Road over Hammer Creek was being replaced. Our right turn led to an abandoned old stone mill on the left hand side, which was pretty cool.
Meadow Valley Road, old mill
Old abandoned mill
Old abandoned mill steps
Old abandoned mill
Along Conestoga Trail on Meadow Valley Road.
The confluence of the Hammer Creek and Cocalico Creek off in the woods from Cocalico Road.
Cocalico Creek along Conestoga Trail
Farm view
Farm view along Cocalico Road, Conestoga Trail
Abandoned railroad right of way on the west side of Akron PA
View from Scenic View Drive, Akron PA
We followed the road to the mill and had a look inside. It was in pretty poor condition, but the stone work was nice. We continued through a small community area, I'm assuming the area was called Meadow Valley, and then soon turned left onto Cocalico Road.
We continued along this road, and soon below us we could barely see where the Hammer Creek spilled into the Cocalico Creek. It was cool to see this particular named creek for almost it's entire length. There was a private yard that extended down to the side of the confluence with a nice little patio thing.
We continued along this road and came to an intersection with Rothsville Road, a much bigger road. Conestoga Trail turned left to cross Cocalico Creek on a bridge, and then turned right on Millway Road. The guide book said there was a water wheel on the right in the creek which pumped water into the house across the street. The mail box of the guy said "Reuben" something, and I figured he must be Amish to not have a well pump.
We continued down hill following the trail along Millway, then headed slightly up hill again. We crossed the abandoned right of way of a rail line that once passed through Akron. I was hoping to use some of that to walk into Akron, but it was so badly overgrown that I figured we'd forget it.
We left the Conestoga Trail and turned left on Scenic View Drive, a residential street with many homes on it, though none of them really looked like anything Amish. There was at one point a view from along someone's back yard. Scenic View took us out to Main Street in Akron where we turned right. We didn't immediately see any stores to get food and drinks which we were craving, but it wouldn't be long.
We made it to town under an onning just before it started to pour heavily. While we waited, Amish guys went by through the center of town on the horse drawn buggies.
Walking through Akron PA
After the downpour, we turned onto Rt 272, Seventh Street, and followed it south a bit. We then came to the Roadway In, which used to be called Akron Motel on my map, where we decided to spend the night.
I went over to the nearby Turkey Hill store for some refreshments and snacks. I was starving, and so I ate a few hot dogs fast, I think I had a pie, and I can't remember what else.
We got a nice relaxing room, and after we were all settled in we took a walk down the street to a restaurant. I think it was Piero's Pizza and Pasta. It wasn't the greatest place ever, but we were really hungry and enjoyed it. I recall it gave me a pretty bad stomach ache.
DAY 8
Getting ready to go at the Roadway Inn, Akron PA
Morning at Akron PA Roadway Inn
Our camp site for the last night, Roadway Inn, Akron
Roadway Inn, Akron PA
Roadway Inn, Akron PA. Our last camp site!
Farm view, Akron PA
Farm view, Akron PA
Church signs in Akron PA
Farmland views south of Akron PA
Giant owl!
We started our last day a bit late, packing up our stuff and trying to dry out our wet stuff, mainly clothing. Almost everything I had was completely soaked, and so was most of Jillane's. We just rested up for a while around the motel, and the proprietor wasn't a real stickler about us being out by check out time fortunately.
While we were getting ready to go, we met two bikers who were traveling across the country. We had a nice discussion, and it turned out we had both been to many of the same places, not only across the country but also in NJ because he used to live there.
He had an incredible story; he was a veteran who was exposed to Agent Orange in Viatnam, and was now recieving some money for compensation, but he would not be moble for more than another year or so, so he was out for his last fun trip.
He told us about many of his experiences such as with Native Americans, and healthy foods and such. He talked for a while with Jillane about diabetes and how to keep it from happening.
After the prophet on the motor bike left, we packed up and were ready to go. We turned right away from the Roadway Inn, and continued south to a right turn on Cocalico Creek Road. As we made the turn, Jillane cut her tow badly on one of the curbs or pavement or something. We had to stop and apply bandages for a bit, we continued on.
Jillane hurt her foot.
We soon reached the Conestoga Trail yet again, where it turned right from Millway onto Cocalico Creek Road. We continued straight following the trail along the road.
Rejoining the Conestoga Trail at Cocalico Creek Road. Note the turn blaze.
Cocalico Creek along Conestoga Trail
Cocalico Creek
Cocalico Creek foot bridge
Conestoga Trail on Cocalico Creek Road.
Cocalico Creek from it's namesake road.
Farm along Conestoga Trail on Cocalico Creek Rd.
Steer
Farm along Cocalico Creek Rd
A fording spot through Cocalico Creek along Conestoga Trail
Farm view along Conestoga Trail
This was a really pleasant section of road walking. We continued along Cocalico Creek Road. The blazing for the trail in this section had changed totally from the brighter, more orange-ish color we had seen further north to only the pink color. It was often pretty obscure on the light colored utility poles.
The road was quite close to the Cocalico Creek for a lot of the way, so it was quite pretty. We walked on out to an intersection, Newport Road, and crossed to continue on Cocalico Creek Road. I noticed in this section that the utility poles were all far smaller than the ones we had back home. The gauge of the trees used must have been far smaller.
We saw a place where vehicles forded Cocalico Creek, and a foot bridge at another site. We got a good feel for the area in this section. Along the way, we saw a farmer using a large piece of equipment, like something with a flat front used for hauling things, but he was having fun carrying kids around on it. The girls and boys were all dressed in the proper slacks and shirts, and dresses like the Amish would be. I figured they must be Mennonites, who's strictness varies a bit more than the Amish. The sign on the front of the barn showed that this was one of the Clover Farms dairies, and they happen to make one of my favorite chocolate milks. I told the farmer how much I loved that stuff, and he laughed and said, "yep, some of mine could be in there!".
We were also passed by a young girls on a bicycle wearing a dress. Probably also Mennonite.
We continued on Cocalico Creek Road and turned onto Zook's Mill Road, still along Cocalico Creek. It wasn't very far before we made a right turn onto Log Cabin Road.
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
View up Cocalico Creek from the covered bridge.
Almost immediately, we entered the Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge, known locally as the Log Cabin Covered Bridge. I don't know why it would have so many names. Maybe the mill for which it took it's name changed hands several times or something. I have no clue. This very nice 89 foot long covered bridge was built in 1849, and was reportedly the oldest covered bridge on the Conestoga Trail system.
We took a break and shared a sweet moment at the bridge before moving on.
In Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge
Log Cabin Road by the covered bridge
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge from Log Cabin Road.
Log Cabin Road above the covered bridge.
Rosehill/Wengers/Zooks Mill Covered Bridge from Log Cabin Road.
View from Conestoga Trail on Log Cabin Road
Farmland view
The Conestoga Trail led right through the covered bridge, and then made a curve to head gradually up hill away from the bridge and the Cocalico Creek. This was the last we would see of the creek on our trip. As we made our way up hill on the road, there was a nice view of the approach to the covered bridge.
Once we had reached the top of the hill on Log Cabin Road, there were some really fantastic views off to the right over the farm lands back toward Akron. I realized after seeing this why the Conestoga Trail utilized this road.
Great view from Conestoga Trail on Log Cabin Road
Great view from Conestoga Trail on Log Cabin Road
View along Log Cabin Road
Farm view along Log Cabin Road and Conestoga Trail
We found this van for sale. Wow.
Farm views from Conestoga Trail on Log Cabin Rd
The road started leveling off a little bit, and we continued on with some residences around us. They detracted a lot from the ambiance of the simple farms around us, but not as badly as the giant Philadelphia Eagles fan van that was for sale to the left of us. This van was done up like crazy with Eagle graphics and I think Jillane saw some memorabilia inside as well.
We continued on and the farm views returned to the simple look we had learned to love. Down below us to the right there was some sort of congregation of the people in a field. Not sure what they were doing, but it was neat to see. A kid went by us on a sort of scooter as well. It's surprising that none of them wear shorts, and they always look rather proper.
Farm view from Conestoga Trail on Log Cabin Road
Buggy in someone's driveway along Conestoga Trail route.
Farm view from Log Cabin Rd.
Conestoga Trail on Log Cabin Road
We continued on the road, which had a nice slope to the right of us where we could see other farms off on the other side of a small creek valley beyond where the people were gathered. We then passed the home nearest to that point, and we saw their buggy sitting in the driveway.
Just a bit beyond this point was a Mennonite church on the left side. We walked into the parking lot for it and took a nice break under a shady tree. This was another very wide open area with no shade. It's too bad the rest of our trip had not been the temperature it was on this day. The other days were quite brutal.
Taking a break in the yard of a Mennonite Church
Amish farmland from a Mennonite church yard.
Interesting tree and a windmill off Becker Road.
We moved on, and headed down hill on Log Cabin Road to an intersection where Conestoga Trail turned left on Becker Road. I of course had to get a picture of Jillane with the road sign. At this corner was a tiny farm stand, something we had been waiting for for some time. Jillane had wanted to buy Amish produce for a long while. Two very young girls in simple long sleeved dresses came out to sell the stuff to Jillane. Apparently they asked something about our hike, and one of them said something like she must know how to walk properly...interesting.
She bought some fresh produce stuff, which was very cheap, and we proceeded down Becker Road past a nice old style wind mill.
Jillane on a road that bears her last name, also the route of Conestoga Trail
Conestoga Trail on Becker Road
View from Conestoga Trail on Becker Road
Along Conestoga Trail on Becker Road. Note the buggy coming up on Jillane.
We headed up hill with no tree cover, which wasn't all that terrible. I was already in phone contact with our good friend Jim "Mr. Buckett" Mathews, who had offered to pick us up. He had to be to work by 4, so he wanted to get to us in reasonable time. He apparently couldn't find Becker Road because the road sign on the south side was completely overgrown, so he was driving around for a while looking for us.
We continued past a few large barns right on the road, around some sharp bends, and then continued through another open area.
Just as we were reaching the end of the open area to the shade, we saw Oregon Road. In plain sight straight ahead was the Hess Station which Mr. Buckett had been waiting for us in. He pulled up the short distance onto Becker Road to pick us up.
Almost the end of our trip, Conestoga Trail on Becker Road near intersection with Oregon Road.
I was actually pretty sad this one was over. Even though it was extremely difficult and put us through some trying times, it was the best Jillane and I had gotten along in months. Somehow we managed to pull together and make it a wonderful trip, despite some of the most awful weather and situations we could imagine. In just over a week it felt like we had adopted the life style of being migrants of some sort.
Mr. Buckett took us back to Jillane's car in Clark's Valley and was a bit late for work, but fortunately didn't get fired or anything.
Jillane and I retrieved our cats and went home better for having done this diverse trip. I can't wait to go again.
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