Hike #560; Lower Delaware Water Gap

 Hike #560; Lower Delaware Water Gap

Group shot on top of Mt. Minsi

5/29/11 Lower Delaware Water Gap with Amanda Rosenblatt, Corrin Dylnicki, Jake Moser, Al MacLennan, Krithika Raman, Al ?, Fred Hafele, Craig Nunn, Jason Itell, Tim Kovich, Al MacLennan, Alex Hakkinen, TaraLynn Ramagnoli, ?, Krithika Raman, Matthew Studer, "DJ Ray" Cordts, Jim "Mr. Buckett" Mathews, "Major Tom" Conroy, Haobo Lai, Jillane Becker, and Eric Pace.

My next hike would be another in my series to repeat the same hike about ten years after my first time leading it. It is hard for me to believe that it was ten years since my first hike with Ryan "Peeps" Short and Frank "Alf" Fentzlaff, who would go on to become a big part of my hiking family for a long time, and who will still join me when they're in my area.

Further, I've done this hike with other groups following that one, marking many incarnations of the hiking family (with my former girlfriend Cathy, coworkers from Wal Mart, Appalachian Mountain Club, etc.). I had also done most all of this hike with my grandfather in different sections, and simply pieced together the incredible placed he had shown me starting at the age of three.

Along Paulins Kill Valley Trail in Hainesburg

At the beginning of my hike Sunday, I saw this mother deer nursing two newborn fawns. The beginning of a great day.

Like all of the past times, we met in Hainesburg, along Paulins Kill Valley Trail (former New York, Susquehanna, and Western Railroad and Blairstown Railroad; 1876-1962) next to the little bridges on Station Road. I was delighted to see such a large group of people show up for a hike which I'd scaled off at 24 miles. Not the entire group would complete the hike, but many would. When everyone was together we followed the rail bed west under the Paulins Kill Viaduct and past the site of former Hainesburg Station. Here, I spotted a mother deer laying in the weeds, and two tiny fawns, the smallest I'd ever seen, barely able to walk. I'm pretty certain the mother had just given birth.

Old building at Hainesburg Junction

We continued along the trail as it left Station Road and entered former farmlands growing in succession. We soon reached the site of Hainesburg Junction. The ruins of the telegraph office was now nearly nothing. The other building that was along the former Lehigh and New England Railroad (1886-1962; the sign with dates there is incorrect) had collapsed since previous trips quite badly. Some of the roof remained, but it will soon fall and look much like the telegraph office.

Truss bridge over the Paulins Kill just west of Hainesburg, former LNE ralroad.

Both the NYS&W which is official trail, as well as the L&NE were now blocked off ahead and marked as private property. As of this writing I am still trying to work out the details with my job on the PKV Trail. This time, like the first time, we opted to follow the former LNE line. I had been told stories of a livid landowner who lived further out, and I didn't want to have a conflict, but still opted to follow this route anyway. We continued along the right of way, which was quite clear for a while. There was a "DO NOT ENTER" sign at the junction site with "private property" written in the middle. We continued anyway, and then came to a somewhat overgrown section before reaching the awesome through style truss bridge over the Paulins Kill.

Crossing the Paulins Kill trestle just west of Hainesburg

The right of way to this site was still not as bad as it had been in the past. I waited for everyone to catch up before crossing the bridge.

Paulins Kill River from former LNE trestle near Hainesburg

LNE Paulins Kill Trestle near Hainesburg

The trestle looked much the same as it did for years. The ties were still pretty rotten; this time one of the trees had grown quite far onto the trestle which was kind of neat looking. I waited until everyone was across to move on down. I wanted to stay close together in case we had a run in with a landowner. I had my phone open to google maps with the property boundaries to show that the right of way was a separate piece, in case I needed to derail some claims of trespass.

Former Lehigh and New England Railroad near Hainesburg

LNE rail bed west of Hainesburg

The section ahead was still quite nice. We crossed one farm road area, but saw no one. A building came into view to the left, and we moved on through in silence so there was no problem. The rail bed then entered a bit of a cut, so we were out of view from any houses. When we reached the corner of Brugler Road and Rt 94, which the railroad had crossed at an angle, we just continued going across and entered the woods on the other side to regroup.

LNE rail bed in Knowlton Township

With no problems, we continued on from here through a beautiful wooded section. I gave some history to the group as we continued on. We made one grade crossing as we made our way through Knowlton Township, and entered state park land. This section had grown up some since my last visit, but the right of way was still clear.

LNE rail bed in Knowlton Twp.

It remained clear until we got to the fields where the cell tower had been built over the right of way. There used to be a good path straight through, but it has since overgrown. Even a decade before, we had to walk around to the right and bushwhack down from the north side as I recall. Since that time, the original path had been reopened and closed in yet again. We walked back and forth until I found the opening, but then some crazy bushwhacking ensued. I made it through first followed pretty closely by Fred. Jason held back and was knocking down weeds.

Trying to follow the rail bed near a cell tower in Columbia

Jason on a pile. Knowlton road department area.

Knowlton road department area, formerly the LNE railroad

We made it out alright into the municipal road department lot, and waited for everyone else to make it through.

We followed the rail bed, now the access road for the Knowlton road department out to the service road that paralleled Rt 80 and turned right. We continued from here to the TA Truckstop for restroom breaks. I went in, but didn't see anything worth buying. I think the truck stop has become much crappier with their selection in the last few years. Corrin and Jake went to visit their friends at McDonalds (if they're the ones I know, they're a fun bunch).

When everyone was back together, we continued across the bridge over Rt 80 and turned left on Decatur Street I think it was in Columbia. We headed south for a bit, pretty closely parallel to what was once the northbound NYS&W railroad. A road called Susquehanna Lane follows some of the route.

We made our way to Green Street and the Portland Columbia foot bridge across to Pennsylvania.

View of Delaware Water Gap from Portland-Columbia Foot Bridge

Once on the other side, we stopped by Port Mart for some amazing chocolate milk, as we always do. They were surprisingly out of quarts.

Also, it was here we were joined by TaraLynn Ramagnoli (her sister Heather had recently joined my hike on the canals around Lambertville and New Hope). She brought a friend with her, Matthew Studer (is that right?).

From here, we turned right and followed the former Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railroad's old main line northbound along the Delaware. We passed under the site where the LNE trestle over the Delaware would have been, and had a nice view of the Delaware Viaduct for the Lackawanna Cutoff before passing beneath it.

View of the Delaware Viaduct

We continued north through the village of Slateford in close proximity to homes, and then soon reached the site of Slateford Junction where the Lackawanna Cutoff joined the old main line. It was this line that in 1913 rendered the original main line to Washington obsolete. At this time, the line is being reconstruction, and regrading has already been done in Byram Township, the east end. I had heard of reactivation of the line regularly since the late 1980s, but nothing had happened.

View of Mt. Minsi at Slateford Junction

Next, some of us climbed up into the old Slateford tower. The planks leading into the back of it were quite badly rotted. Only one of the three we used to climb into the building on was fit to hold anyone. We managed to climb in anyway and have a look around. Corrin had just been here only a couple weeks before at the most, and took pictures, but this time there was a ton more vegetation attached to the building than there was even on her visit.

A few of us had a look around the upper floor, and Jake made his way to the bottom to climb back into the top using the metal girders.

Slateford Tower

Some of the group, looking out the window from Slateford Tower

Mt. Minsi as seen from the tracks.

We continued to walk along the tracks north from here. There were two new guys trying to meet up, both named Al, who were mutual friends with my friend Mathias Bullerman. They had parked at Arrow Island overlook to descend to the tracks. They ended up just ahead of us, and together we continued to the north. There was a right of way to the left of the active set of tracks, probably from the days when it was double tracked, that we decided to walk because it was a nice break from the ballast. Unfortunately, it became overgrown and we were separated from the tracks by a large puddle. I walked through while the others went up to the top. Soon, Rt 611 above us descended a bit and came close to the tracks. When they reached almost the grade level we turned off and crossed to visit Cold Air Cave. Once a tourist attracting with a building in front of it, it's somewhat forgotten by all but locals. It's easily accessible, but often just driven by for lack of knowing about it. We all went in and basked in the cool air for a bit, which was quite refreshing. One of the "trolley tours" (bus made to look like a trolley) stopped in front of it while we were in.

In Cold Air Cave

Coincidentally found my name written on Cold Air Cave. I didn't do it, but we have same initials!

We headed back over to the tracks and continued north. I was looking for a good spot to go jump into the river. There is a good path down to a sweet beach near Cold Air Cave, but it's too exposed so we didn't bother going down. There were a ton of people over at Kittatinny Point on the NJ side anyway.

The group in front of Cold Air Cave, Delaware Water Gap PA

DL&W tracks in Delaware Water Gap

Delaware River in the middle of the Water Gap

DL&W tracks in the Water Gap

Falls on Caldeno Creek

Rt 611 once again rose high above the railroad tracks, and we continued through the narrowest part of the Delaware Water Gap. It was at this site that a washout sent a locomotive plunging into the river. With such great depth, the train was impossible to recover, and still remains at the bottom of the river. Supposedly SCUBA divers train at the site. The engineer, who jumped to safety before the accident, at least ten years ago, was still alive and living in Hampton.

We continued through the narrows of the Gap and reached Caldeno Creek, and it's spectacular high falls.

Lower Caldeno Falls

The Caldeno Creek takes it's name from three explorers who first discovered it. "Caldeno" is an amalgam of their names. Most maps have this creek misnamed "Caledonia", which is actually a place name further west in Pennsylvania, but no relation to this site.

Lower Caldeno Falls (The creek is mismarked "Caledonia" on many maps)

I refer to this site as Lower Caldeno Falls, because another "Caldeno Falls" is further up on the creek, though much smaller in comparison.

Directly above the falls we could still see the stones crossing the top, part of the foundation of the Kittatinny House, one of the most glorious hotels in the history of Delaware Water Gap dating back to when it was the vacation capitol of the world. The site of this hotel is now Resort Point Overlook. Caldeno Creek flowed right through the kitchen of the incredible building, but very little remains of it. It was destroyed by fire.

A few of us went up to the falls to stand under the water. It was quite hot out and we needed to cool off. One of the Als and I crawled through the tiny culvert that carried Caldeno Creek under the railroad tracks, which was pretty interesting.

Interesting bush in Delaware Water Gap

We continued on the tracks to the Rt 80 underpass and climbed up to the left to the walkway, which was the route of the Appalachian Trail. We followed the AT route into town, and then turned off along the street heading down hill. Fred, Craig, and Al cut out here to head back to Hainesburg by way of the tracks.

The rest of us continued down hill to some of the stores.

Downtown Delaware Water Gap

I went over to the bakery place that had the meal deal for a piece of Apple Pie and a hot dog. I had those, and then joined the others at the pizza place on the corner. It was here that we were joined by DJ Ray, Mr. Buckett, Major Tom, Haobo, and Eric.

Funny sign in Delaware Water Gap

After lunch, we continued back up hill on the main street to the AT, then followed Mountain Road up to the parking area near Lake Lenape.

We followed the AT shortly, then turned off on another unmarked trail which led down hill across Caldeno Creek to the blue blazed trail that started at Resort Point. We followed this on to the AT shortly ahead.

Rocks along the AT on the way up Mt. Minsi

Resting along Eureka Creek

We continued on along the AT, and at some point Eric turned back. Major Tom continued with us for a bit, but then went back to meet back up with Eric. Along the way, we stopped at the little viewpoints including Council Rock, as well as the nice spot at Eureka Creek in the dense Rhododendrons.

Lookout Rock along the AT

We continued on from here a short distance to the Lookout Rock just off the AT. The view was pretty good and clear. We spent a little time here before heading up more steeply toward the top of Mt. Minsi.

Lookout Rock on the AT on Mt. Minsi

We continued up the steep rocks from Lookout Rock to another view point where we could see up the Delaware. This view used to be much more expansive, but many trees have grown in over the years leaving it somewhat obscured. We could see where the NYS&W railroad used to cross the Delaware up stream barely through the trees.

Piers of the NYS&W trestle over the Delaware within view on the way up Mt. Minsi

We continued to ascend very steeply, stopping to talk to people we met along the way. This was a great workout for me, I had been needing it badly. We regrouped where the AT met the woods road after a long steep ascent. We met a couple here that were ready to head right back down, but I coerced them to continue on ahead to the next couple viewpoints because there were amazing. They came along with us.

View of Mt. Tammany from the top of Mt. Minsi

Black Snake

We soon reached the viewpoint where we could see across to Mt. Tammany. We took a little bit of time here, but the next spot was much better. We ascended slightly more and came to where the fire tower used to stand. A short distance away was the side trail to the terrific panoramic view of the Delaware River, NJ, and PA.

View from the top of Mt. Minsi of Columbia NJ and Portland and Slateford PA

Group shot on top of Mt. Minsi

Group shots

Group shot on Mt. Minsi

We continued on along the AT from here, and the young couple we'd met continued back the direction they came from. The AT followed a fire road in this section. Along the way, Corrin I think it was saw a side trail going off to the right. We went to check it out, and it was quite a nice off trail viewpoint into Northampton County. Corrin could pretty much see her house from this vantage point.

We continued on from here along the AT southbound.

Off trail view to the south on the Kittatinny Ridge, PA

Off trail view south

Off trail view

Off trail view

The AT had been rerouted ahead, off of the woods road and left into a wooded section leading out to a gas pipeline with views to the south. It originally turned left on the pipeline as I recall, but had been rerouted already on a trip I did here in late 2008.

Off trail view

Pipeline near Totts Gap

Pipeline near Totts Gap

Totts Gap Cave

Totts Gap Cave

In Totts Gap Cave

We continued on the AT southbound from here as it began it's slight descent into Totts Gap. Once there, we reached old Totts Gap Road, once a cross mountain road open to traffic, but now completely washed out on the south side of the ridge.

We turned left heading south down the ridge. Soon, we reached Totts Gap Cave; this mine cave has two stores behind, and I am not sure which one is true. One story has it that someone filled a shotgun with gold dust and shot it into the rocks to justify exploring for the expensive mineral there. The other store is that it was a test cave owned by Ingersoll Rand for dynamite. Of course the latter story is probably most accurate, but I honestly don't know.

We went into the cave as I always do on this trip.

Totts Gap Cave

Totts Gap Cave

Totts Gap Cave

Jake being crazy on a log, Old Totts Gap Road

Mr. Buckett and DJ Ray cut away at this point. They had left a car in Fox Gap on PA Rt 191 to do a slightly different hike, while the rest of us descended along old Totts Gap Road down to National Park Drive.

National Park Drive

When we reached the bottom, at a power line access, Jillane joined us. We all turned left and followed National Park Drive. It soon became a dirt road and gradually descended.

When we reached part of Slateford Creek, I think by Laurel Hill Road, some of us went down to check out a waterfall. This falls was quite nice, though not as large as the quarry ones further downstream.

Falls on Slateford Creek

We continued down the road and soon came to the entrance area to Slateford Farm. We turned right here, and soon cut into the woods. Corrin told me a rope had been put in where in the past we had climbed up from the larger Slateford Falls. Sure enough, we found the rope. We gave everyone the option of making their way down here to the falls or continuing on the road. Most followed the road, but Jason, Corrin, Jake, Jillane, and the two Als made their way down with us on the steep crazy slope.

Steep slope near Slateford Farm

Steep slope near Slateford

Slateford Falls coming into view

The falls were flowing quite well, although a large tree had fallen into the base of it which inhibited us from laying in the water directly below the falls like I enjoyed doing. Still, it was quite a sight, as always. Jason and I were first down, followed by Jillane who went around a slightly safer way, then the Als who did the tough way but took their time about being safe.

Slateford Falls

Slateford Falls

Slateford Falls

Slateford Falls

Slateford Falls

Slateford Falls

We found a nice place to lay in the water to the left of the falls, which was quite refreshing. Jillane continued on to the pools further down in the creek with Corrin and Jake.

Soon, Jason and I also made our way down while the Als stopped to swim at Slateford Falls. I also jumped into the pools, as the water was a bit deeper for a bit of a swim. Jillane continued ahead to join up with the rest of the group who went ahead. Jason continued on as well.

After a while of waiting, we decided to move on. I remained in contact with Alex to make sure he knew which ways to go.

The trail took us back out to National Park Drive, which we followed down to Rt 611. We turned left, then immediately right into the village of Slateford. The bar on the left was closed, and I was insanely thirsty. Fortunately, there was a lady out in her front yard whom I asked for the use of her hose, and she was glad to help. With refilled water, we continued south to the Delaware Viaduct.

We climbed to the top on the ATV path, and made our way across.

Downstream Delaware River from Delaware Viaduct near Slateford

Delaware Water Gap view from Delaware Viaduct

DJ Ray met back up with us briefly on the other side of the viaduct after crossing. He didn't walk with us for long because he had places to be.

It was getting pretty dark, and this section of the cutoff was brutal, with large ballast rock. In the dark, it seemed like it was going on forever.

We managed to make our way back to Hainesburg, and crossed over the Delaware Viaduct.

The others got there first, and Jason was afraid someone might catch them out there at night. TaraLynn arrived to see if anyone needed a ride back to their cars, and my phone had died before I could alert anyone there to this. When Jason saw the truck there, he panicked and hid in the weeds. Apparently they were looking at him or something, but he thought it was someone of authority so he remained hid. Quite a funny situation to add to the ever growing list.

We got to the Paulins Kill Viaduct, and sat on top for a bit, then descended on the ATV path to Station Road. We headed back to where we parked, and hung out for a bit for the Als to show up. I had directed them on where to come down.

This was a long hike, but unlike the previous week, my legs did not hurt at all.

It was a fun eventful day, and a great feeling that I could still cover high mileage without pain. Jake and I shuttled people back to their cars to close out the day. It must have been about ten PM when we finished!