Hike #553 4/9/11
The group at Round Head along the AT.
4/9/11 Blue Mountain/AT; Rt 183, Schubert's Gap, Round Head, and Rock PA with Jillane Becker, Mark "Bobo" Godfrey, Mathias Bullerman, Amanda Rosenblatt, Eric Pace, William "Guillermo" Fabel, Carol and Rob Creamer (and Bruce), Simon Schwartz, and Hadas Yatom-Schwartz .
My next hike would be a loop on the Blue Mountain in PA. Pretty much equal with the furthest connecting hike west, it would be interesting but not really the most exciting section we've ever done.
We met at a State Game Lands parking lot off of PA Rt 183. It took everyone a little longer than anticipated because of a small accident on Rt 78. We were about a half hour late. The state game lands lot was full of hunters doing some sort of a big event, and so our two newcomers, the Schwartzs' ended up going to them first. They soon found us.
We began our hike by heading up hill on the state game lands road which crossed the AT. We turned left following the trail south bound, fist through on a foot path, then along a woods road with some depressions that might have been charcoal hearths.
Along the AT south of PA Rt 183
Just before reaching Rt 183 and crossing, a blue blazed trail went right. I didn't try to follow it yet, but I wondered all day where it went. We crossed 183 and then went through an open area, then into the woods to an old cross mountain road, and the site of Fort Deitrich Snyder. This was the site of one of many fort sites that were on or at the base of the Blue Mountain, ususally around twenty miles apart, to fend off indian attacks. I gave a little of the history of the site to the group, and we moved on along the AT heading southbound, now on a section I had never covered.
Utility right of way view along the AT on Blue Mountain
The AT ahead got a bit boring. It was a long stretch in mixed hardwood forest. There was another side trail, with a single yellow mark on it going to the left. The sign read "Berks HP" I think. I was thinking perhaps this was the highest point in Berks County, but I can't be sure. I couldn't find anything about this on line.
The trail as extremely wet ahead. There were some nice vernal pools on the sides of the trail, but the trail itself was badly washed out. As a result, there were many parallel paths to the sides of the actual trail route that hikers had been taking.
Guillermo called me on my way to the hike and said my "hike tomorrow looks interesting". "Tomorrow?" I asked. He thought it was Sunday, and then he decided to drive out and meet us! He drove to 183 and hurried along the trail to catch up.
We continued away from the wet areas, at an elevation of around 1600 ft and then slowly began to descend a bit until we reached a utility right of way, I think fiber optics. We took a nice break here because we had a view into the valley to the south. We could see the cars on Rt 78 moving along. This wasn't a fantastic view, but it was something to break the monotony so we enjoyed it.
The group resting on a utility right of way, Blue Mountain in PA
I climbed up the right of way to the north a bit to see if there was an opposite direction view, but there was not. The view however was a little bit better. I headed back down the right of way to the group, and just as I got back to them Guillermo hurried out from the trail in the woods to join the group. From here, we all continued along the trail heading west.
Utility right of way view from the AT south.
Bobo had gotten really far ahead of everyone. He had already descended into Schubert's Gap far ahead of us and was waiting.
We all began the gradual descent into Schubert's Gap where the AT followed some of an old woods road with rock water bars to the bottom. As we descended, the understory switched from Mountain Laurel to Rhododendron, and Rob made a funny Mr. Buckett voice saying "I like the Rhodies!".
Schubert's Gap was really pretty. It was an undeveloped gap with a stream running through it. Bobo was waiting for us at a picnic table at an area with several fire rings, I think called Hertlein Camp Site.
Hertlein Camp Site, Schubert's Gap PA
Rob in Schubert's Gap
Hertlein Campsite, Schubert's Gap PA
We took a little break here next to the fire ring, which had burnt long logs hung over the fire rings. We then made our way from here along the AT through the Rhododendrons to a stream crossing where large rocks were placed across for stepping. Carol and Rob found a nice cascade off to the left side of the trail which I had to go over and have a look at. The original wash from where the creek had run was now dry, in a surprisingly deep gully, while the current route of the stream went around this, naturally dammed by a large birch root I think it was, and passed around a tree to the cascade. It seemed the creek found a new route up stream as well, and some of the volume of water was coming from another direction, causing the change in this creek. An interesting nature study area.
Small cascade in Schubert's Gap
Boulder Field off the AT in Schubert's Gap
Boulder field off the AT in Schubert's Gap
Seasonal view from the AT into Schubert's Gap
We began to ascend along the AT from here, and on the way up we passed a side trail on the right, which we took to a really cool boulder field just off the trail. There are several places in PA where there are fields like this one, and always cool to check out. We turned back to the AT, and continued to ascend. The former AT route continued ahead and was sort of blocked off, but we turned right and gradually ascended on a switchback up the other side of Schubert's Gap.
View from Schikellamy Overlook
View from Shikellamy Overlook
There were some seasonal views off to the left of the trail as we ascended out of the gap, but when we reached the top of the ascent we were rewarded with the beautiful Shikelamy Overlook to the south. We could see farm land stretching over Berks County and Rt 78 with tiny cars and trucks passing by. It was a great overlook, but a bit cloudy.
I think the overlook was named for the Shikellamy Scout Camp which was just down at the base of the ridge. We could see a pond and some buildings through the trees of the woods directly below us and to the left.
There was an old road out of Schubert's Gap which descended to this, and supposedly went to a swimming pond that we didn't head to this time, although I'd like to try it in the Summer.
Shikellamy Overlook
Shikellamy Overlook
Schikellamy Overlook
Shikellamy Overlook
Shikellamy Overlook
Shikellamy Overlook
Shikellamy Overlook
The overlook was a rocky outcropping. We took a nice break here, and Mathias immediately climbed down and out to the furthest rock. He was in rare form all day, going nuts knocking dead sticks off of trees, running around like a mad man with Bruce and such.
Below the overlook directly was a little shelter made of sticks. Guillermo went in it. We spent some time at the overlook before moving on along the trail.
Shikellamy Overlook
At Shikellemy Overlook
Stick shelter at Shikellamy Overlook
As we ascended slightly more following the south edge of Blue Mountain, there was some nice side hilling work done on the AT. So much of it earlier seemed like a mess. Even the blazes were not the standard 2x6 and seemed sloppily done with running paint. Everything out here was pretty nice, and I think it was still maintained by the Blue Mountain Eagle Climbing Club.
Nice side hilled area along the AT heading up out of Schubert's Gap
We continued on along the trail and crested the ridge once more, but still stayed more to the south side. We eventually started making a descent and soon found our way to Round Head, an outcropping piece of the ridge which jutted in a southwest direction into the valley. It was an off set piece of the ridge much like in Pen Argyl PA, and at the Pinnacle near Hamburg.
View from Round Head
View from Showers Steps Vista at Round Head
View from Round Head
Round Head had a really nice view out into the valley. We could still see out toward the highway, but could also see the next part of the ridge ahead, and down into the small valley separating Round Head from the rest of Blue Mountain, known as "The Kessel". This was a word meaning "Kettle", which I think was Dutch in origin, but I'm not sure.
We took another nice break here.
Jillane on Round Head
Guillermo had the realization that hikers should wear bonnets.
While we were waiting, two other hikers passed through. We didn't see many people on this trip. We passed a group of backpackers on the stretch between 183 and Schubert's Gap, then the first one who Bruce barked at coming through at Round Head.
Another hiker approached from the west up the Kessel Trail, which crossed the valley below and ascended Showers Steps. These stone steps were placed here by a volunteer, I think named Lloyd Showers in the earlier years of the AT. We didn't follow this route this time, but instead moved along the AT ascending a bit past a monument.
Guillermo put a towel thing around his head to make himself a bonnet, and commented on how hikers should wear them. The guy that came up Showers Steps seemed shocked and/or disturbed by something, and Guillermo hypothesized that it was because of his bonnet saying "That's an ugly looking woman!".
Monument at Round Head
We continued along the AT ahead, and soon to the left was a view point which sat on the edge of a steep boulder field. Here, we looked on into "The Kessel", across to the Blue Mountain with another boulder field on the edge of it's ridge, and further to see PA Rt 501 ascending Blue Mountain. It was an interesting view into this uninhabited enclave of forested valley.
View into "The Kessel" from another view at Round Head
Boulder field view from the upper overlook at Round Head along the AT
View of PA Rt 501 ascending Blue Mountain from an overlook on Round Head
View down into "The Kessel" from Round Head on the AT
A short distance ahead on the AT we reached the trail junction with the former route of the AT from years before. My plan was to follow this 1.6 mile route to Werts Path down into the valley. We followed the trail pretty easily for a bit, and somehow Mathias was busy on the phone, wandered off the trail, and a lot of the group followed them and got them lost. A rather funny situation.
We came to a split in the trail and I assumed we needed to go left. It seemed like the thing to do, but we followed this trail out to where it descended off of the ridge, which didn't seem right at all. Jillane headed down, but there was another cross trail which we followed right. This was not the right way, but it seemed like it was. I sent everyone ahead following Guillermo and waited for Jillane. She caught up with me, but we soon lost the trail. We ended up bushwhacking on what turned out to be the upper end of Round Head. We all reunited at a rocky area, and a short distance led us back to the AT where we'd already been. We had somehow managed to do a crazy loop.
We followed the AT the wrong direction briefly so I could get my bearings, then realized it was the wrong way. We turned around and came back to the same junction we had been at before, followed the same trail, and at the first fork we continued straight instead of turning right.
Off trail searching on Blue Mountain near Rock PA.
This trail led us to another more prominent trail, which we determined to actually be the old AT route for sure. A right turn was the the 1.6 mile trail I had intended on taking back towards Schubert's Gap and Wert's Path, but since we took a wrong turn before and I wanted to now cut some distance, the left turn on another path would seemingly do so. Not much, but it was the only option. I saw. We followed it to the left, descending quite a bit. A cairn was placed along the trail where it turned right. I could see these trails, marked on woods roads, on the USGS map I had brought with me.
After the first turn, we continued through the woods a bit to a four way intersection. Trails went left, right, and straight. We took a break here, and then continued straight which was the right decision.
The trail soon became a woods road, and descended on into a small stream valley. Soon, Wert's Path, orange blazed, but done so spuratically, came in from the right. We descended via Wert's Path, which followed an old woods road along a stream.
Wert's Path was badly washed out. It was possible to see where the old road was supposed to have gone, but it was difficult to get along. We often had to turn off of it and follow it parallel because of the mess.
Utility line crossing of Werts Path
We eventually reached the fiber optic line right of way we had crossed on the AT earlier, which had the rocks from the valley plowed all out of the way. There was no effort whatsoever done to try to manage how the stream flowed over the right of way. It did so in a crazy washing way, taking the water whatever way nature willed it across. Jillane went ahead, since we were already ahead of the group, while I waited for everyone to come down safely. Once we were all together, we continued to descend the washed out path.
Werts Path
Werts Path
Soon, Werts Path, the woods road, went from being a washed out mess to a rather nice woods road descending through the hemlocks. It wasn't long after this that it went from being a rugged old woods road to a wider, almost vehicle accessible road that had been widened I assume for a fire line or something. Jillane was waiting for me here, and we descended along the trail. There was a side path, and Jillane heard water; she said there might be a waterfall so I went to check it out, but there was nothing but a tiny cascade.
We continued on Werts Path until we came to a gate and a State Game Lands parking lot.
Hunters Drive
Hunter's Drive
Bobo with a little fence off Hunters Drive
The road to the game lands lot was called Hunters Drive. We followed it from here down hill. It was a dirt road so it was really nice to walk.
It was pretty much undeveloped at the upper end, but then we passed one house and a little fence of birch and pine branches where the road became better, but still unpaved. There was a side road to the right leading to the first house.
Along Hunters Drive
Nice tree along Hunters Drive
The road led through some beautiful farm land, and then past some houses with lots of junk sitting around. The second house seemed to have a run down summer kitchen attached to the back of it which was interesting. There was a dog barking on the porch, and a guy sitting in a truck who gave us the disclaimer not to mind the dog, that he was retarded.
There was a beautiful huge tree in the yard of the house. We continued to descend along the dirt road as we came to more homes. This road came into Loop Drive.
Ahead of us I could see a large fill. It was partially plowed away completely to the left, and to the right, but directly in front of us it was obvious. To the right the fill was there as well, at an area where buses were parked. Bobo went up the fill, while Jillane, Guillermo, and I headed straight ahead to cross Rt 895 onto Newswanger Road to check out an historic covered bridge.
Covered bridge mail box next to the covered bridge on Newswanger Road, Rock PA.
The first mail box we passed on Newswanger Road had a model of the covered bridge over the mail box, which I thought was neat. The bridge itself was beautiful, like most we encounter. There were two little girls in front of a house on the left shouting and holding up signs that read "Free Worms", apparently for the fishermen who frequent the site. A few of them were already on the other side of the bridge at a rather impressive little dock that had been constructed for that purpose.
It must have been the first day of fishing season because there were tons of them out in Blairstown when we were driving out for the hike.
The bridge had the standard arch I see in most covered ones, but this one was reinforced with steel girders inside, so the old bridge probably bore no weight. Here's some info on it:
Rock Covered Bridge
Location: Pine Grove, PA
Lat. / Long.: N 40.544679 W 76.295055
Built in: 1870
Truss Type: Howe
Rock Covered Bridge
Rock Covered Bridge
Rock Covered Bridge
I gave Jillane a kiss in the bridge and we moved on.
In the old days, they used to call them "Kissing Bridges" because lovers could kiss undetected under their cover. I hope to kiss Jillane under every covered bridge in the tri state area.
Former Reading Railroad, Rock PA
Former Reading Railroad, Rock PA
We made our way back to the bus area again, and I ascended to the right of way of the former Reading Railroad. It was clear and walkable here, but not for a very long distance. We headed east on 895 and there was a guy in a grey truck watching us. He pulled onto Newswanger road and onto a driveway, continueing to watch us. We continued east and then turned right onto Moyers Station Road. There was really no good way to get onto the railroad bed, so we continued on the road ahead.
Looking at the group on Rt 895 from Moyers Station Road, Rock PA
Former Reading Railroad looking east on Moyers Station Road
We could see the rail bed looking back to Rock, and the opposite direction was too close to houses.
We followed the road past a fish and game place holding a supper, and then past a nice little farm. A guy came out on his tractor and pulled up along us walking along the road. He asked us what we were up to, and we told him it was a big loop hike. He said it was a great day for it, to which I replied any day was. Such smiling happy people are great to find. Along the road ahead we had some nice views of farm land and the mountains to the north.
Farm views along Moyers Station Road
We followed the road to two ninety degree angle turns. Jillane and I got way ahead of the group. We made the first turn, and as we approached the second one there was an incredibly strange log cabin on the right, followed by a unique A Frame. There were a lot of new houses, McMansions that were pretty ugly all around these two bends, but these two homes were interesting. A third one was crazier yet. A log cabin of nice construction with a low peaked roof, but the rear of it had a huge overhanging addition of makeshift composition, full of all sorts of junk. The east side of the building appeared to have once had cover as well, because there were piers. There was a ton of junk around there too. Quite an odd structure.
Little Swatara Creek pipe, Moyers Station Road
Old foundation on Moyers Station Road
Jillane and I waited for everyone to catch up when we reached a nice little bridge over Little Swatara Creek. Once we could see Eric, who was last at this point (he was taking lead for the first part of the day) we continued on, and passed by some old foundations on the right. We continued along the road for a short distance to the intersection with Blue Mountain Road and I waited for everyone to catch up.
Along Moyers Station Road, Moyers PA
Farm view from Blue Mountain Road
A lot of the group didn't want to continue on. Eric was first; he had talked to a guy a bit further back that told him there was a bar and grill a short distance down Blue Mountain Road, so when we got to the intersection, he gave me his keys and I wold bring his car back to him there. Eric headed down the road to go to the bar. Bobo wanted to cut out, and other started joining in with that notion, but then decided not to. We all got up and headed right on Blue Mountain Road. Jillane, Mathias, Guillermo, and Amanda went way ahead.
The road was steep at times, and so I carried Carol's bag up the hill. There were some nice views to the south, and we could soon see the Blue Mountain Scout reservation to the right. There was one new victorian style building that was nice save for the ugly fake stone around the entrance.
We crested the hill and headed down past the scout camp entrance. Bobo, Guillermo, Carol, and Rob decided to stop here while the rest of us continued on. Jillane and I got up front yet again and moved strongly along the road. When we got to the entrance road to what I knew to be the old cross mountain road back to the AT, we opted not to take it because 183 might be shorter.
We walked Blue Mountain Road past houses, and at the last one cut through woods out to 183. We then began ascending the road. The others I think cut across people's back yards to get out to the highway with fortunately no trouble.
Heading up Rt 184, Blue Mountain
Heading up Rt 183, Blue Mountain
I was hoping to find where that blue trail went and maybe take it up, but we didn't see anything here. We followed the road up, and I rolled a golf ball down when I got enough elevation.
This was a long, awful road walk, but Jillane and I moved quickly up it.
We found a truck mirror along Rt 183, Blue Mountain
Truck mirror along 183, Blue Mountain
Truck mirror we found along Rt 183, Blue Mountain
Along the way we found an old truck mirror that had broken off and goofed off taking pictures with it. It seemed like the highway went on forever. When we got to where the AT crossed, we didn't take that, because again the road would be faster, but I couldn't resist the urge of going up and seeing about that blue trail. I turned left onto the AT the short distance to the spur trail and turned left on it. It led out toward Rt 183 at another old woods road entrance and then seemed to end right there. I assumed it would be a view point or side trail to a spring but it was not. As I turned around to head back, I saw there was a plaque for the Blue Mountain Eagle Climbing Club, the purpose for the side trail.
Blue Mountain Eagle Climbing Club monument on the blue side trail from the AT near Rt 183.
I hurried back to the AT, and crossed, bushwhacking parallel with 183 for a bit. I found an old stone walled spring obviously done by AT thru hikers, but no longer part of a side trail or anything. I bullied through weeds back to the highway and ran to catch up with Jillane, almost at the parking lot. When we arrived, we were followed pretty shortly by the others. Simon and Hadas were training for a climbing trip abroad, so this was a good practice for them. They did excellent for their first time, and I assured them that if they enjoyed this trip they would love the others much more, which is certainly true. I was truly impressed that they stayed in high spirits the entire day, and when Simon told me they drove all the way from New York City to do one of the furthest hikes from home we ever do, I was more impressed.
Jillane and I took off into the valley, picked up the others and brought them to the bar to meet Eric, and we headed off to close another nice day.
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