Hike #532 12/24/10
12/24/10 Clinton to Van Syckles/Spruce Run with Chris Metaxas
Having a drink at the Pittstown Inn, formerly the Century Hotel
My next hike would be a point to point in Hunterdon County NJ between Van Syckles and Clinton.
It was surprising that only Chris Metaxas showed up for this one, but I guess the fact that it was Christmas even sort of threw people off.
We met in the morning at Van Syckles Road next to the intersection with Rt 31, the Spruce Run Reservoir fishing parking lot next to the inlet and then shuttled down to Meadowview Drive off of Hamden Road just south of Clinton. I put together a trail and back road route that would connect these points.
Wetland in Melicks Bridge Section of South Branch Reservation.
We started walking right out of the little town house developement off of Meadowview to a piece of Hunterdon County Parkland, Melicks Bridge Section of the South Branch Reservation. I had in the past proposed a trail should connect from these town houses down to the access just northwest, but of course no one was receptive enough on it.
Chris and I descended steeply through weeds to a wetland. We got our feet wet right from the beginning.
We made our way thorugh the woods on the wide flood plain out to the South Branch of the Raritan. Here, we picked up the trail that went along it's edge out to the road at Melick's Bridge.
The South Branch of the Raritan at the Melicks Bridge section
Melicks Bridge section of the South Branch Reservation
There were nice views of the river through here, including a spot that there was a big washout recently, and the county did some fixing. We followed the trail up stream along the South Branch out to Hamden Road and turned left across Melick's Bridge where there were some nice views up and down stream.
South Branch view from Melicks Bridge
Melicks Bridge near Clinton
On the opposite side of the bridge, we immediately turned left onto another trail along the river which took us close to it, then away a bit through a sort of meadow. This trail paralleled Hamden Road and then came back out to it shortly. When we exited the trail we crossed directly and then walked across the mowed yard of a church that was on Lower Landsdown Road.
Landsdown Trail's south end
We came out onto Lower Landsdown Road and then followed it west to the south end of the Landsdown Trail, formerly the Clinton Branch of the Lehigh Valley Railroad. It's still sad seeing it without the old railroad car in place at the south end. We did not follow the Landsdown Trail, but rather the former Clinton Branch south where the tracks had recently been removed out to the main line.
Former Clinton Branch of the Lehigh Valley Railroad at the junction site with the main line
We soon crossed over the active former Lehigh Valley Railroad tracks and briefly got onto Landsdown Road. We then immediately turned right onto the former Pittstown Branch of the Lehigh Valley Railroad, now part of Capoolong Creek Wildlife Management Area.
Pittstown Branch of the Lehigh Valley Railroad, Landsdown NJ
We followed the rail bed south and crossed Rt 617, then came out to Lower Kingtown Road and crossed parallel with a driveway.
Pittstown Branch of the LV Railroad
Pittstown Branch along the Capoolong Creek
The right of way ahead of where the driveway turned away was starting to erode away into the Capoolong Creek more than on previous visits to this site, but it was still beautiful.
We soon crossed Lower Kingtown Road again and passed across an open field. At the end of the field section there was a side trail going right, marked with yellow arrow markers heading into the woods.
Capoolong Creek
We decided since there was just the two of us that it would be a good time to go and explore this side trail. It was good at first, but then became rather overgrown. It led us right out to Capoolong Creek and seemed to end. I looked around and could see another marker on the opposite side of the creek, so I tried to cross. I managed without really getting my feet more wet, and I recall Chris just ran it like a mad man and did pretty well.
The trail seemed to end as I could not see any more markers.
I could see somewhat of a path going out away from the creek, so we opted to follow it for a bit and it led us to where there were more yellow trail markers, though it became a bit overgrown. It skirted the edge of a hill on the right, then turned left onto an old wods road. It was really overgrown here, and we fought through it as best we could. When we got to the top of a hill the trail seemed to disappear, and we were far too close to homes and fences with animals in them. We decided to turn back, and using our phone gps things with areal images we headed to a nearby field.
Fields just north of Pittstown
We followed the edge of one of the fields on up to Rt 513, Pittstown Road to the west, and turned left. This was an awfully tough side trip!
The road took us down hill past the farm we had just seen from the so called "trail". As we walked, we soon saw where the "trail" came out to the road. It was marked with Union Township trail signs, and apparently it was closed to general public; it was necessary to be a member of the club to use these trails. Beyond that, this section was not usable anyway because coming out to the road it was far too overgrown.
Pond on a farm from Rt 513 near Pittstown
Kingstown Road near Pittstown NJ
We could see the farm where we were stuck from the road in this area, and a nice pond. We continued walking along Rt 513 south and came to the intersection with Kingstown Road and turned left. We passed by a nice old farmstead and an old mill as we made our way back toward Capoolong Creek.
Along Kingstown Road near Pittstown
Dead Musk Rat near Pittstown. I took this and sent it to Jillane and her sister Jamie because I call their moms cats Musk Rats.
We reached the rail trail again and turned right. This took us over White Bridge Road and then out to the old Pittstown Station. One of the boards on one of the windows had been knocked off, and one could see that work had been done inside, but the place was just as much a mess as the previous time I had been there.
We made our way into Pittstown up a driveway, and then stopped in the little store in town where I think I got a chocolate milk.
In former Century Hotel
We then walked down the street to the former Century Inn, the Pittstown Inn now, and decided to go in. It seemed closed at first, but a girl showed up and was going in. She told us we were right on time for the place to open, so we went on in and were the only ones there.
Chris treated me to a couple of drinks, which was great. The girl recommended some sort of Cosmopolitans and told us we couldn't go wrong. They tasted pretty good, and they were strong.
In former Century Hotel
Farmland in Pittstown NJ
Before we were done we were wearing baskets on our heads and making like some sort of foreign priests. Just before leaving we checked out pictures inside the Inn that showed the place had completely burned down safe for the stone framework very early on and was rebuilt.
When we were done being silly, we walked back onto Rt 513 north to Perryville Road. We cut across an open field, not really worrying about anything, to get to Perryville Road.
Farm in Pittstown NJ
We turned left onto Perryville Road and continued. I remember looking at names on mail boxes and signs to see if one of them was the mayor of Union Township who didn't seem to like my recent proposal to move into the Hoffman farm house.
We continued walking Perryville Road taking in some of the nice farm scenery on our way north.
Farm on Perryville Road
Union Township NJ, from Perryville Road
We continued up Perryville Road, and I briefly got on a farm road to the left of it hoping to get off the road for a bit, but had to come right back down.
We crossed over Cooks Cross Road, and then headed north for a bit more. We soon were able to turn left through a grassy field area to Finn Road Park.
Finn Road Park, Union Twp.
We headed up to the activity areas and then turned right onto a pathway made of quarry screenings. This took us to the north up and around a couple of ball fields, then west and south again almost back to where we started. We then turned to the west past another parking lot.
Finn Road Park, Union Township NJ
We made our way along the edge of one of the fields to reach Finn Road, then turned right heading to the north.
We came out on Main Street and turned right into Perryville area. We didn't have to go far to come to the grade crossing of the former Lehigh Valley Railroad tracks. We turned left and followed the tracks to the north from here.
Former Lehigh Valley Railroad, Perryville NJ
We followed the tracks out to the underpass below Mechlin Corner Road, and climbed up from them to the right. We then crossed back over the bridge heading west and soon came to the entrance to the south end of Hoffman Park, one of the county parks I worked in.
South entrance to Hoffman Park
We continued through the park past the wetland rehabilitation area, across a stream, and then out into the main trail system, formerly little old roads. Some of them are paved. We stayed pretty much on the south side and then passed by the old farm buildings there were abandoned. The park guys call the guy who lives in the adjacent building "Smiley".
Paved old road in Hoffman Park
Sadly, these historic barns are probably going to be destroyed just like the township plans to do with the old Hoffman Mansion.
Smiley's farm, Hoffman Park
Smiley's Farm, Hoffman Park
Manny's Pond, Hoffman Park
Me on Manny's Pond, Hoffman Park
We looped back to the south for a bit and soon came to Manny's Pond, the largest of the multiple ponds in Hoffman Park. It was not all that well frozen over yet, but we went out onto it anyway. We had some big rocks we were throwing out there to see if we could get them to go through the ice in areas that looked thin. There was no snow yet on the ice, in fact this was the last day we had without snow on the ground at all for the next two months or more.
This allowed us to run and slide on the ice really well, which was fun.
Manny's Pond, Hoffman Park
We left the pond and ascended the hillside to the west at Hairpin Lane, then came to a nice view toward Spruce Run Reservoir and sorrounding area.
In Hoffman Park above Manny's Pond
View from Hoffman Park, Hairpin Lane
Hoffman House
We soon came to the Hoffman House. This mansion of strange design was originally build at the latest the 1830s. It was supposedly one of the homes of the Van Syckels farming family of the area, and even their descendants feel the building may have been purchased by an earlier farmer dating the house as even older.
It had commonly become known as the Hoffman House from it's most recent owner prior to the government.
Hoffman House
Albert and Joyce Hoffman were the previous owners, and when Mrs. Hoffman died the property was turned over the the County of Hunterdon and the buildings became the responsibility of Union Township. Albert Hoffman was one of the owners of the Hoffman Beverage Company, once a big contender for the likes of Pepsi and Coke.
Hoffman House
The company fell apart in more recent years but was once a thriving enterprise. It is said that Hoffman was an eccentric person, and it was he who had the Hoffman House altered to it's current state. Little seems practical about it's design; while it still retains much of it's 19th century ambiance like the hand cut beams, it's had additions and odd other things put in which, although they don't necessarily all fit in or seem to be strategically placed, are beautiful.
Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Among these are the lovely mahogany stair case and stained class window doorways near the entrance. There is also a great deal of lovely wood work around the fire places, a few interesting pieces like a nice wood burning stove and a portable kitchen set.
The windows have great views out toward Spruce Run in the sun room, and out to the little ponds below which we had just cleared in the parks department a year prior.
Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Chris and I wandered to the house, and I knew we could get in through the garage. We had recently been going through it with plans to try to preserve it so I still knew how to get in the ways it was unsecured. We made our way inside and through the basement.
The building used to have tunnels the first time I was in it, but the township had them removed. There was a swimming pool in the front that was reportedly out of an old cruise ship, and the tunnels led to a half buried garage that was in the front. Those tunnels were now blocked by cinder blocks.
We made our way up stairs and went through the entire house looking around. There was really no one in the parks on Christmas Eve, and all the park employees were off save for a couple of rangers maybe, so it was the perfect day to be out there exploring.
Hoffman House
After going through the entire place, we made our way back out the garage and then walked around to the left of the building past another residence that was now abandoned.
Hoffman House
View from the front of the Hoffman House
Hoffman House
Buidling in Hoffman Park
The second house was abandoned currently, and had a bad septic I was told. There was a guy who was living there, a blind guy who was having a party. There was a roof deck on the house, and he was drunk and fell off of the roof, and then sued the township. I don't know how he ever won such a suit, but this is one of the reasons the township and county are so afraid of liability. If a blind guy can get drunk and fall off of a roof, then sue the township for it, pretty much anyone can get away with anything.
Hoffman House
View from the front of the Hoffman House toward Spruce Run Reservoir
Hoffman House
The view from the old Hoffman House was excellent and clear on this day. It's a shame that Union Township has decided the place needs to come down. They claim it is no longer historic because it had additions and such, regardless of the fact that hand cut beams are exposed throughout the lower level of the house. They just want to be rid of it, and as of now I still have plans on fighting it.
More buildings in Hoffman Park
We passed a couple more abandoned buildings on our way west out toward Baptist Church Road from the house. We had some more great views of the area and passed by a beautiful giant Ash tree off to the north of the main access road.
When I first saw the tree I was talking to Jillane on the phone, and told her I saw a giant Ash tree that made me think of her. She had thought I said "Ash Tray" and sarcastically thanked me for associating her with such a thing.
Giant Ash Tree in Hoffman Park
View from Hoffman Park
We turned right onto Baptist Church Road and headed down hill under the former Lehigh Valley Railroad tracks through a culvert. I remembered delivering with Taylor Rental to this area and having to go alternate ways because the delivery trucks would not fit beneath this culvert.
LV Railroad underpass on Baptist Church Road
Abandoned house on Baptist Church Road
Abandoned stone bridge parallel with Baptist Church Road
Bridge on Baptist Church Road
We continued down the road and there was an abandoned building off in the woods to the right. We could smell smoke and it seemed like someone might be over there so we didn't go over to check it out, but this house had looked abandoned for quite some time. I have no clue who owns it or if anyone lives there, but it is certainly a mess.
From the bridge over a creek here I could see to the north an older abandoned stone arch bridge, maybe the former alignment of Baptist Church Road.
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
We came out to the end of the road to the ruins of the Bethlehem Baptist Church. This stone frame of a church I had seen many times while working and for years prior, and it reminded me of the Swack Hammer Church in Lebanon Township and the similar one in Long Valley.
This time, there were two guys cleaning up around the cemetery. I said hi to the younger guy, a pleasant guy with a foreign accent who told me he just helped his boss around the site.
His boss was an older gentleman walking around and picking up sticks. He started walking over to me after I circled the entire church taking pictures.
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
Cemetery at Bethlehem Baptist Church
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
Ruins of Bethlehem Baptist Church
The man came up to me and I commended his work on trying to keep this historic site looking good. The man was Douglas Martin, a respected historian and recipient of a recent historic preservation award. I had known of him.
We ended up talking for quite some time; Mr. Martin explained to us how this church was his family's church, and that when it closed up, thieves came and stole the piping out of the place. This allowed for water to get into the building from the roof and it soon rotted and became irrepairable. He said it didn't take too long for the roof to come down after that. He also said that when the workers were there constructing the highway, nearby Rt 78, they offered to come over and knock it down for him, but he said no, leave it there. Some of the woodwork was still in place on this occasion, and a bit of the wood backing from where the minister would have stood was still visible when looking from the outside.
Mr. Martin and I talked for some time about the politics of the county, the parks department, the township, and the Hoffman House. It turned out we had many mutual friends like Deb Hirt and Bill Honachefsky.
One mutual associate surprised me; Mr. Martin had said he spent the morning with a gentleman whom I reminded him of. He went on to say this man built an organization from the ground up and turned it into a respectable group with a great deal of successes. He then said the main was Bob Canase. I had just talked on the phone with Canase the night before, and I lived basically on the Ridge and Valley Trail which he had laid out. The world seemed to get smaller as we talked.
We eventually said our goodbyes, and Chris and I still had some distance to go.
We turned left along 78 west on the frontage road and made the first crossing. We stopped briefly at a convenience store where I got a chocolate milk, then turned right onto Strotz Road.
We soon turned right off of the road just past a small field onto an ATV trail. I figured this might take us out to a small quarry dust path that was around the outside of a development just off of Strotz Road. We followed it, but it soon ended.
Village Square Trail near Strotz Road development.
In order to get out to the trail section, we had to bushwhack to the north through some really heavy brush. I felt quite accomplished after pushing through it and getting to a clear path.
Trail just east of Strotz Road
We followed the path to the right, heading east for a bit, then it turned to the north. We continued on it and when it started turning back to the east looping around the development, we turned right heading into the woods. We could see state fish, game and wildlife signs showing that this was public land, so we headed out through a line of trees to another field.
Entering Clinton WMA from near the Village Square Development east of Strotz Road
We somehow ended up in the wrong field from where I really wanted to be. My phone GPS was dying so I really couldn't tell exactly where we were. We ended up in a field to the south of the development instead of to the east. We followed along the edges of the fields not seeing a way through, and eventually came to a creek. We didn't see a way through pat the creek, so we just opted to follow it down stream.
Stream in Clinton WMA
We eventually came back to a field parallel with the stream again, and kept on following it down until we could see Van Syckles Road across from it. We could have walked a bit further south and just crossed the stream on the frontage road, Rt 173, but neither of us wanted to walk any further than we had to. We already had so far to go back it was nuts. We turned left onto Van Syckles Road and began following it.
Chris contemplating a stream crossing in Clinton WMA
"Crazy Bastard Stream Crossing", Clinton WMA
Very unhappy with a long road walk along Van Syckles Road
My phone GPS had told me the distance was something like three miles, but it turned out to be more because the point it gave me was incorrect. We followed Van Syckles out across Rt 635 and past the old stone building which I think was the one Mr. Martin got the award for preserving.
The walk along the road seemed like it would never end.
I spent a great deal of the time using the last iota of energy my phone had to call all of my friends from the area to see if they could pick us up and take us the remaining distance back to the cars. We even put our thumbs up to hitch hike near the end. At one point someone looked like they were going to stop for us. They paused just up the road, but then continued going. We celebrated with our arms in the air for a moment, then were ultimately disappointed when they drove off.
Every time I drive that road today I think back at that road walk and how absolutely terrible it was. It was well after dark before we got finished and I was quite late getting home.
Other than the terrible road walk at the end, the hike was really a lot of fun and had some really memorable moments.
I must vow never to walk Van Syckles Road in it's entirety again.
Very unhappy with a long road walk along Van Syckles Road
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