Hike #969
9/11-9/19/16 Cornwall Bridge to Farmington with Jillane Becker
Unfortunately, the original journal on this hike was again lost by facebook. It was apparently too large and somehow, despite having published it, appeared in drafts and was deleted. It sucks particularly because it was such a long one. Fortunately I can remember quite a lot.
Jillane and I had spent a lot of time backpacking in Pennsylvania. We did a lot of the Mid State Trail and other stuff, but we both wanted to have a look at something completely different.
I'd found out about the extensive Connecticut Blue Blazed Trail System which is administered through the Connecticut Parks and Forests Association rather recently.
I had been doing my series on the Appalachian Trail from New York into Connecticut, and the Mohawk Trail, a former route of the Appalachian Trail, breaks away from the current route on Breadloaf Mountain and descends to the little settlement of Cornwall Bridge. I wanted to continue from there across the entire state, and I had ideas of how this connection could be made using some of the extensive trail system.
This trail system dates back to the thirties as I understand, and some of the conservation land dates back to 1913 with the desire of Alain and May White to preserve the natural settings of central to western Connecticut.
Close to where I had last left off on my Connecticut series was a motel in Cornwall Bridge known as the Hitching Post Country Motel. I got in touch with the place and obtained permission to leave a car there over the next week as we prepared our hike.
Day 1
Jillane and I got a late start driving up on the 11th, but had enough time to wander around and explore before checking in for the night. We got our room, put our stuff down, and then headed out to walk around the Cornwall Bridge area. I wanted to connect with exactly where I had finished the previous hike.
There was once a covered bridge that crossed over the Housatonic River at this point, replaced by a giant multi arch bridge that stands today.
We walked down along the river, beside the Housatonic Railroad track, and checked out stone walls, an old school house with art all around it, and a splendid old railroad station.
We meandered up and across the current Cornwall Bridge, and then down the other side where we checked out a lovely old church. We walked the cemetery, and a path behind the stone wall that skirted it.
The cemetery was situated in an odd circular fashion closer to the church, which was unlike other churches we'd seen like that.
We wandered around the side of the bridge and back across again to the motel to turn in for the night, just as the sun was setting. There were great views of the Housatonic River from the bridge, as well as of Breadloaf Mountain to the west of us.
I had a pretty good feeling about this trip right form the start.
After all, this was a trail I'd never really done before.
The Mohawk Trail had been the official Appalachian Trail route not all that many years ago. I think it was only moved in the 90s or something to remain on the west side of the Housatonic River for a bit.
The trail had moved several times over the years, and used to cross the Housatonic I think on the South Kent Bridge, and then climbed the side of Kent Falls, which is an outstanding waterfall nearby. It then ascended to what is now Mattatuck Trail, and then Mohawk Trail. At some point, it used the current Mohawk Trail route, and then switched again.
We sat on the benches at a little eatery just up the road as we reached the Mohawk Trail route just ahead.
The road was narrow and had no lines, and eventually became abandoned closer to the top. The trail continued along the abandoned road for a time, and then crossed a pleasant little brook, where just uphill from us was the ruins of an old masonry dam.
The trail continued to climb Coltsfoot Mountain parallel with the little stream, which was one hundred percent dry. Not a drop of water could be found just about anywhere, something that would prove very problematic for us later on.
We continued a ways up, and eventually came to Echo Rock, which had a really nice overlook back toward the Housatonic Valley I think it was.
The trail beyond started to descend a bit, and it wasn't very easy. There were spots we had to use hand holds to get down and over some of the rough rocks.
I knew I would love these trails for how different things were before we ever even started them. This was exactly the type of diversity I love in a hike.
We passed by an old brick building which I found out was likely the old Marvelwood School based on old maps, and passed an old box culvert spring.
The trail continued out of town along Valley Road, and then turned left onto Essex Hill Road.
Before the trail turned off of the road to the left, Jillane spotted straight ahead a mother Bobcat and several kittens. It was really cool to see them just walking not far in front of us.
The next bit of trail heading uphill from here was through a lovely area known as the Cathedral Pines. Many of these enormous pine trees blew down in a hurricane or something several years ago, but there were still some pretty impressive ones left, especially as we got further in.
We continued to climb Essex Hill to reach Great Hollow Road where the trail turned right.
I was looking for the blazes and couldn't quite see them for sure. I recall meeting the farmer at the turn off who assured us that the trail turned left from the road and into his farm land. He also told us about the draught that was happening, and that usually the stream at the bottom of the hill, which the trail and farm road crossed, was running strong, but was now barely a trickle.
The trail continued up the farm road, and we passed some cows in one of the pastures as we climbed Mohawk Mountain.
Further up, the farm road got to be washed out and the trail meandered a bit more on a stable footpath toward the top. We skirted some of the ski slopes of Mohawk Mountain Ski Area as we ascended, and this afforded us with some pretty nice views over the valley.
We went along some of the tops of the ski areas and reached the northern terminus of the Mattatuck Trail, which would be the next leg of our journey, but not just yet.
The Mattatuck Trail originally went from Mohawk Mountain on the Appalachian Trail (now Mohawk Trail) all the way to Tunxis Trail to the east. Our trajectory would be something like that, although today the Mattatuck Trail no longer is a through route.
There are probably more overnight shelters along the Mohawk Trail than the Mattatuck Trail, and we made use of the first one just ahead.
The Youth Conservation Corps, or YCC Shelter was just a short distance down the trail. It was starting to get dark as we passed by one overlook at Toomey Road, and then reached the shelter.
We set up our tent inside the shelter when no one else was around and had a pretty nice fire to close the day. Jillane made up some ramen or something or other as I recall from our rashions.
Day 3
I woke up early as usual, and then wandered back to the overlook on Toomey Road, which looked pretty nice. I chatted with a guy taking pictures there as I recall, and then went back to pack up. I think one or two people walked by on the trail as we were still there, but mostly it was quiet.
We got back on the trail and headed back the way we came the night before. Pretty soon we were passing by the chairs and ski lifts at the top of the Mohawk Mountain ski area where we took a break and enjoyed the views a bit.
There was an interesting small stone tower base near the tops of the ski lifts that didn't have any cover over it, and I'm not sure what it used to be.
We headed through the woods and back to the intersection with the Mattatuck Trail and started following that to the south. The first part of it appears to be the same as it ever was, and passes by some stone ruins through the woods.
I got us a nice room and we headed to it immediately to get cleaned up, which was so terribly needed.
When we got there, it was quite the disappointment to find that there was barely any hot water at all. It almost didn't get warm.
I went back down to the front desk to let them know of the problem, and they gave us a free upgrade! The other room was in a different part of the hotel where we wouldn't have such problems with the hot water. It ended up being a really great place to stay after all of that, and I think we ended up having a fancy dinner in the restaurant inside this one as well. We really had the full experience with the place, and it was some sort of cheese thing like a chicken cordon bleu or something.
Well rested, well showered, we headed out from here back down Rt 202 the way we had come the night before, to the same spot that the old railroad bed came in close to the road. We didn't follow it except for a moment. It was later part of the New Haven system. Maybe one day I'll trace that one too.
We turned on Bissel Road, into the White Memorial Conservation Area in order to get back on the blazed Mattatuck Trail.
This section was an absolute joy to walk. It was absolutely easy. The route was wide, soft ground with no rocks at all.
Water levels were still low in this area, but we walked along what was called the Duck Pond, and turned briefly onto a nice boardwalk section just to have a look, although it wasn't part of the main trail route.
We went back across Bissel Road, and saw a snake in a dry bog area. The trail followed something called Whitehall Road, a dirt road for a bit, alongside the Bantam River which had water in it at this point.
We turned left at an intersection and continued on more of what was Whitehall Road, and that took us out across the river on a nice old pony truss bridge. The trail turned left and then out to Whites Wood Road, where we crossed through more woods and skirted wetlands.
This entire section was just great. Foot path sections had the edges all mowed. Woods sections were very gentle grades and mostly old woods roads.
We crossed Webster Road and passed through woods and natural meadows, where we came close in view to Cranberry Pond.
The trail meandered through some deeper woods and got a little less wide, then went up to cross Litchfield Road. We crossed and headed uphill slightly more, and then passed by the pretty Heron Pond.
The terrain got hillier, but it was still pretty easy old woods roads. We went up a bit and then skirted a hillside with a pond below us known as Plunge Pool.
The Mattatuck Trail continued around a height of land to an outlook of Marsh Pond, but there was a way that was slightly shorter to the left on another of the White Conservation trails that went ahead to Beaver Pond possibly with a tiny bit less uphill, so Jillane decided to take that. I ran with my full pack all the way to Marsh Pond, which was negligible less distance, and then met back up with her at some sort of foundation ruins above the Beaver Pond.
I don't know why Beaver Pond was called Beaver Pond, because it had a significant dam on it made by man rather than beaver.
It was a really nice section that wasn't all too terribly rocky.
The trail went up and down through a tiny valley and across Slab Meadow Road, then stayed basically along the height of the land high above the Pitch Reservoir, which I don't recall ever coming into view.
The trail continued above both the Pitch Reservoir and the Morris Reservoir.
After a while, the trail picked up some sort of weird berm. It looked almost like a canal towpath, and there was even a trench to our right that looked like a canal. The problem was, what would have been the waterway continued to descend as did the walkway berm.
I've checked all of the historic USGS maps of the area and could find nothing on this area. I could also find nothing on it on any online resources about hiking the area. It's also not mentioned in the Connecticut Walk Book.
My best guess about whatever this is, is that there was once a pond on the Slab Meadow Brook above, and that water may have been redirected onto this route to get down to some sort of mill or works. I still don't really know.
When we reached the Slab Meadow Brook, the trail turned left to follow it downhill to along Pitch Road. We could briefly see Morris Reservoir here. We came out to Pitch Road and reached Thomaston Road.
We crossed the road and then skirted the Morris Brook.
The next weird thing that came about on the next section of the trail was framed poetry. It started off with Walt Whitman's "Dalliance of the Eagles".
This segment of trail remained on the high land, here above the Wigwam Reservoir.
It was getting dark fast, and we had to figure out a spot to camp. We fortunately found a spot with a tiny bit of water near what was supposed to be a little waterfall. Nothing on it at this time though save for some collected water we could use from small pools.
Once across the stream below, we climbed once again and reached Gilbert Road, which went by some holding ponds above the Wigwam Reservoir.
We walked the road a bit, and then cut into the woods again to the left. More framed poetry followed in the woods filled with old stone rows. Robert Frost, Maya Angelou, and Dylan Thomas followed Whitman's lead, and some had more than one submission to the trail collection.
The trail meandered through some old pastures and then descended rather steeply through some impressive rocky sections and crossed over the Fern Brook.
The terrain was harder than the previous day because there was so much up and down, but it was quite pretty.
Jillane didn't want to go on, and when I'd get slightly ahead she'd stop and not walk. I'd have to keep going back for her, and we were losing time really fast.
We left the Mattatuck Trail even though I really badly wanted to see Black Rock itself, and we took the red trail which leads down to an easier route into the main part of Black Rock State Park. This took us past an old quarry site and then down to Black Rock Pond. We crossed the pond on a very nice foot bridge and took a little break in the park.
From here, a branch of the Mattatuck Trail, the Branch Brook Trail, follows an old trolley line from the entrance of the park east back to the next bit of Mattatuck Trail about a mile away. I knew this would provide us with a pretty easy route to go.
Unfortunately, by going this way we would end up missing the Leatherman's Cave and another overlook I'd wanted to see, but we would have to come back and catch that on a future hike.
After York Road, we continued north on Reynolds Bridge road to the bridge of the same name and turned right to cross the Naugatuck River. This one wasn't dry and was quite pretty.
I was just above her, and the trail went very steeply up the embankment to a height of land, and then remained uphill to skirt the back of a quarry that was actively working, equipment all parked with flags flown for the recent 911, and the trail reached Hill Road and descended back to Waterbury Road.
We walked this south a little ways more, past more quarries until eventually the trail turned to the left uphill steeply once more.
There was no avoiding this one. It was rocky and rather uneven in terrain. It was steep with very little switchback about any of it. We were entering Mattatuck State Forest, and it was only a narrow swath of land they had to work with while putting the trail in, so it had to go right up.
It was getting rather late in the day, but we had to press on. The trail descended a bit past the overlook, and meandered around some rock outcroppings, then reached an old woods road at the foundation of a former house. There were artifacts and such sitting around from the runs.
The trail continued on the abandoned road before finally emerging on Carter Road. It turned left there, and then went to the right on Wilton Road next to Wilton Pond.
We continued up on this road as the sun was just starting to go down.
The trail turned left on South Street for a bit, then to the right into more of Mattatuck State Forest above Brophy Pond.
This was a bit rougher to try to figure our way through because although the trail as blazed, there was a ton of ATV use all over through the area. Nonetheless, we continued to make our way through the woods, and then out to Todd Hollow. A side trail went right, but we had to stay on the main route to the north in order to get out to Keegan Road.
I had wanted to try to continue on the Mattatuck Trail, and then use the Town Hill Connector Trail to head north toward Terryville where we would get a motel room.
It was too dark when we got to Keegan. We had to cut off of the Mattatuck Trail there.
I had wanted to follow it all the way through, but the problem was it no longer connects with the Tunxis Trail. The Tunxis used to join at a point called the Grand Junction where many of their trails came together. I'd try to figure that out one day, but this time wasn't it, nor was it the best way to get across the state.
We turned left after crossing Todd Hollow Brook on Keegan Road, and went right uphill on Scott Road. We then turned right again on Cross Road, which led us to Town Hill Road. We turned left there.
We passed by the Terryville Fairgrounds in the dark, and eventually reached Rt 6 to the north, Main Street into Terryville. We turned right here and in a short distance came to the Plymouth Motor Lodge for the night.
We got the room with the heart shaped hot tub, which I thought would be very relaxing. It ended up being our launry machine. Jillane took down curtain rods or something to clean the clothing we'd brought in the hot tub.
We had some dinner at an Italian place close by, which I guess was Spiga Pizza unless it changed hands since then. We had some good dinners, and we could restock on other stuff we needed at the CVS next door.
We started walking from there and along the highway to the east a bit, in toward the middle of Terryville.
On the left side as we walked, we came upon the historic Eli Terry water wheel from around 1830. It is believed to be one of only two water wheels of its kind in America.
The wheel provided power for the mill that once stood on the site.
We went, and it turned out to be the right time to go, because it was the four year anniversary of the place opening, and the little old ladies running the place were so happy to see us that they gave us cupcakes. I said something about being able to fit the cupcakes in my pocket, which they seemed to think was hilarious.
I ate several cupcakes, and they also gave us little miniature bottles of water to bring with us, and I think Jillane got a coffee. The place was called The Booktique.
Just ahead, we passed the Lock Museum, but it wasn't open. It had the old date stone from the actual factory reading 1889 out in front of it.
Just up the street, we walked into Baldwin Park on a corner, where there was large duck statue and signs asking people not to climb on it. The park was probably one of the least fun ever. Aside from the usual no alcoholic beverages allowed and open sunrise to sunset, signs forbade glass bottles, dogs, or ball or game playing.
We turned right on North Main Street and passed Hillside Cemetery, then crossed the Poland River before turning left on Poland Brook Road. We continued here to an entrance to St Mary's Cemetery, where we turned right and walked over the hill and through it.
We came out to Judd Road and turned right, then at the next intersection went left on East Plymouth Road.
This road took us north to the East Plymouth Cemetery, which we took some time to stop and check out.
Adjacent to the cemetery was the old St Matthew's Church, an Episcopal Church completed in 1792. It is the third oldest extant episcopalian structure in Connecticut, although today it is just a private residence and somewhat altered. It still retains the historic character.
We continued past the old church, and then turned right briefly on Marsh Road to the edge of Old Marsh Pond, a large reservoir. Here, the Tunxis Trail turns left into the woods along the waterfront.
Tunxis used to continue further south, to the previously mentioned former terminus of the Mattatuck Trail, but for some reason sections were closed. It would be fun to see if I could trace it anyway some time. I'd imagine it is doable.
We made our way further from the water, and there was another access point off to the left (there was no parking where we went in). As we made our way further we eventually came to the intersection with the Tunxis Yellow Dot Trail which leads off to the right. The 9.4 mile spur of the Tunxis Trail goes over the Mile of Ledges, a popular rock scramble section I wasn't quite prepared for. We opted to go this route, but first we put our packs down to head north just a little bit on the main Tunxis Trail to check out the Tory Den, which was a Revolutionary War era hideaway in rocks.
This was really super rocky and required a lot of hand holds. Up and down over rocks, and through rocky clefts just didn't seem to end.
Eventually things got easier, and we reached Country Pond in the Martha Brower Sanctuary, which was much more pleasant.
The trail took us out to Greer Road; thre were a lot of other people hiking this area. We saw more as we got further into the mile of ledges, and more yet when we neared the road.
We turned right on Greer Road to reach the intersection with West Chippens Hill Road. From there, I couldn't figure out what to do.
We walked back and forth up and down the road, and didn't see where the trail was suppose to go across.
I didn't have the guide at the time, and I figured that this section might have been abandoned or something.
Fortunately, a guy came out of his house, and asked "Are you guys looking for the trail? Right down my driveway!".
This was exactly why I love trails like this. It went right down his driveway, past his goats in a fenced area, past a pond, and through his mowed yard before entering the woods once more.
After this easy grass and some fine foot path, we almost expected it to get easier. How could it continue to be as hard as it was after the mile of ledges?
The next road crossing was East Chippens Hill Road.
We crossed and entered Sessions Woods Preserve, and went over a lot of puncheons and board walk areas. The trail cut to the north with a short connector going toward a visitor center.
We continued on the main trail which cut to the north and skirted wetlands. We stayed that way until around the intersection with the Tunxis Orange Dot Trail. At that point, it was getting late and we were almost out of daylight. We needed to figure out a place to camp.
We found a pretty nice spot in a flat area on top of mound of land just enough distance off of the trail that it wouldn't be a problem. It was pretty well hidden behind some of the fast changing foliage of maple.
We set up and Jillane prepared more food. I think this was some other kind of package food we got, but I don't quite recall what it was. We had another nice camp fire before getting to sleep. This was the fourth camp fire of this trip, and we were fortunate to be able to have them each night out.
We started back on the Tunxis Yellow Dot, and reached the intersection with the orange dot where I talked to a guy associated with the Connecticut Parks and Forests Association, very impressed at what we had been working on. I wish I could remember his name.
A lot of people were walking the trail in this area, since there is of course very close parking.
We made our way across this area, over Milford Street and Reservoir Road to where the trail became a more simple footpath again. We then turned to the right and crossed Whigville Brook on stones.
We followed the brook, went over an old dam site, and turned onto a wide old road kept open wide by ATVs. At this point, we were in Nassahegan State Forest.
We crossed a four way intersection with the orange dot trail, which is super wide and rutted from ATV use. Everything was like an ATV highway for a bit.
The trail came out and touched the corner of development at a house at the end of Cornwall Road. I figure the route the trail takes through the state forest is the abandoned former route of it.
I lost the trail for a bit here and I remember wandering up and down the road looking for where it cut back in. Eventually we found it and were going up and down over some more rocks again.
It didn't last all that long, and we were descending to an area of descent.
We made our way down and soon came out on Stone Road, a nice dirt road through the state forest.
I found out later that it was in fact that. Nassahegan State Forest is one of those parks where people like to apparently claim that they had Civilian Conservation Corps working, when in fact it was really a different Works Progress Administration (WPA) group, the Transient program.
Transient workers would come in and do similar to other WPA groups, but there were stories of the trouble they would get into, such as spending all of their pay on booze, and behing found laying inebriated in the middle of the street. The jail had to be built to haul particularly problematic ones.
This ended up being a particularly pretty section heading to the north along the brook. We followed it north a bit and turned to the right when Punch Brook went left, onto the Tunxis Red Dot Trail. It continued on the brook for a bit and then emerged on a road called Ryan's Way. It followed the road out to Punch Brook Road, and then went up into the woods to the east.
That trail is supposed to eventually go through, but encroaching development is a problem.
We turned left on Punch Brook Road to the north from here.
There were some pretty old homes and well kept properties out that way. When we got to Rt 4 at the north end we turned right, and for a short time we followed a rather level grade parallel with it that I thought might have been a railroad spur, but I can find no maps supporting this. Just below here along the Farmington River (which was originally called Tunxis River because that was the native name for it), was the site of the Burlington Station on the former New York, New Haven, and Hartford Railroad. That right of way is now the Farmington River Trail, and would be the next leg of our journey.
The trail was paved, but it was nice enough. This first section was right along the Farmington River in a particularly pretty section. We went down fro a break on it after a little bit of time, and there was even a nice rope swing. We both enjoyed the water a bit, of which there had not been nearly enough on this trip.
The trail went under Collinsville Road, and had some really nice murals. A bit north of Unionville the railroad bed and trail deviated because it would have crossed at an odd angle that isn't quite amenable to pedestrians today. This trail was really done up with specifics.
When we got to Unionville, there were to handsome station buildings. I assume one freight and one passenger. We took a little break there, and I headed down toward some stores to get us some snacks and drinks.
I picked up a box of "Krispy Krunchy" fried chicken, and we pigged out on that while sitting on the pavement by the old depot building.
Jillane had been a vegetariant from when she was way young until somewhat recently, and this was one of the earliest memories of her actually devouring anything meat without apprehension.
We crossed Oak Ridge Road, followed by Coppermine Road past a parking area, and on to Rock Oak Hill Road. There used to be a junction between this branch and the former New Haven and Northampton Railroad, which later became part of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford, and started off as the Farmington Canal. It is now the Farmington Canal Heritage Trail, but it's a minsomer in this area because the canal was actually nowhere near it at this point.
There are points where the Farmington Canal Trail was actually built on the towpath or actually in the old Farmington Canal route, but in many places they deviate quite a lot. Never more do they do so than from probably from Simsbury to Milldale. Almost the entire part of the trail they refer to as "Farmington Canal Heritage Trail" was never a canal at all. None of it in the town of Farmington at all touches the canal, and people will argue it to no end.
We headed away from the rail beds on Red Oak Hill Road which has a pedestrian path along it, out to Meadow Road where it continues. There were some nice farm scenes in this stretch, and we could see the rail trail to the south of that point was under construction, not yet opened.
I wasn't familiar with what I was seeing at the time, because had I known, we'd have been off road where a trail skirts the river itself just to the north. The Meadow Road Path wasn't bad though.
We took a break when we got to the Pequabuck River crossing to the east, and at this point was where the Farmington Canal used to pass beneath the road, parallel with the river.
It was pretty late at this point, and just about dark, so we weren't going to go and venture into the cemetery or anything, which has a level area where the canal used to be in it.
At the end of Garden Street was Farmington Inn and Suites. This would be our last stay in Connecticut for this trip, another rather upscale and very nice establishment.
I left the room and wandered out to the river. It was raining, and I'd found more about the Farmington Canal and confirmed it was right there somewhere.
I checked the river looking for any signs of slack water navigation or a canal prism next to it somewhere. I later found out that the lower end of the Farmington Inn, right where we were staying, and its parking lot is in fact built on part of the old canal route. This was of course my first experience with the Farmington Canal or New Haven and Northampton Greenway, so I was learning and obsessing as I tend to do, and I'd certainly be back to do a lot more of it.
No one ever loves these hikes more than I do, but I think trips like this are are really special. In retrospect, I think that maybe I've been doing so many cool long trails that it's really hard to compare many others to them. It's been so cool that others will seem pale in comparison.
Everything is unique an amazing in its own way though. It's just a matter of being open to noticing.







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