8/2/15 Caledonia Area Loop with Lerch, Jen Berndt, James Quinn, Christian Alexander, Jason Kumpas, Jason Itell, Megan Reid, Michele Valerio, Ken ?, Michelle McBriarty, John Discuillo, and Noelle Bramblett.
Group shot
Our next hike would be a very nice loop in the Caledonia area of South Mountain, mostly within Michaux State Forest.
This was a great hike for me for a lot of reasons. It was overall very relaxing, it was a huge connection for me to another hike I'd done to the south of here, it was another piece of the Appalachian Trail I'd not done, and it was the Ironworks of Thaddeus Stevens, one of my favorite American heroes.
Stevens is known sometimes as "The Great Commoner", having been born into poverty in Caledonia County, Vermont. He was a self made man who sought education and began law practice, delved into real estate and iron industry, and worked himself into politics.
Caledonia PA was one such furnace he owned. Stevens was a Radical Republican and an Abolitionist in a time when it wasn't so popular. Caledonia was his works named for his Vermont home, which began operation in 1837.
During the Civil War, when the Confedarate Army was ordered not to raid and pillage, take only what they needed, General J. A. Early burned and pillaged Caledonia. He said
“Mr. Stevens is an enemy of the South. He is in favor of confiscating their property and arming the Negroes. His property must be destroyed.”
Even in death, Stevens illustrated his principals by choosing to buried in a cemetery that allowed all races.
Caledonia Furnace area
Caledonia also played a part in the underground railroad, moving slaves to the north through the area.
We started this hike in front of Thaddeus Stevens' iron furnace, which was rebuilt to smaller scale by the Alpine Club of Pennsylvania. It was reconstructed out of the rubble of the earlier collapsed furnace at the same site.
Caledonia Furnace in ruins after Confederate attack
Despite the fact that the furnace and works had been destroyed, the works were rebuilt under Furnace Manager John Sweeney with financial support from Stevens and Cumberland County iron men the Ahl brothers and remained in operation until the 1870s.
We met for this hike directly in front of the iron furnace, which was where Jillane and I had done the next hike to the south of this I had wanted to connect.
Caledonia Furnace today
The Caledonia property was sold to the state in 1903, at which time they leased the land to the Chambersburg and Gettysburg Electric Railway Company to operate the area as a trolley park. The trolley company created many of the facilities that exist today, and then later, from 1933 to 1939, the Civilian Conservation Corps created more facilities as well as roads and such in surrounding Michaux State Forest.
Historic view before furnace restoration along Lincoln Highway. Note the historic furnace before repair.
The start of our hike would be to follow the old trolley right of way, now a trail, to the west to the Appalachian Trail. On my last hike we had followed that right of way to the southbound AT. This time we would follow it northbound.
Caledonia Furnace
I rode with James and Christian, and we arrived a bit early. We went and checked out the little waterfall from the raceway. A lot of the group were running behind, so we ended up getting a late start. We waited for some of the group to use the restroom, then headed over to the trolley right of way to the west. It wasn't far before we hit the Appalachian Trail, which then went down hill to follow an old mill race. It was a very beautiful area. Jason Kumpas and I walked together and he told me about the creek and how it's so nice along it.
I had been wanting to explore this park for years. Both Jason Kumpas and Jason Itell had talked about it a lot. Now that Jason Itell is living in the area again, it seemed natural to have him help out organizing the hike.
AT in Caledonia
The route I had originally planned was to take the Appalachian Trail north to Means Hollow Road, where Jillane and I had backpacked north on the trail from, then head east to Long Pine Run Reservoir, and take other trails back south to Caledonia. I didn't know any of those trails and would just be having a guess at what would be the best route, but Jason knew them well, and had had a regular jogging route he did through the area. I gave the second half of the hike to him to do with what he wanted, which worked out great.
The AT kept along the raceway back almost to where we just had been, then went through the picnic areas of the state park, somewhat on a paved path, then into the woods on an area of turnpiking. We crossed an access road before beginning the ascent of the South Mountain formation.
Steps on the AT
The trail skirted Chinquapin Hill, and continued along to Quarry Hill. It was well used, and we passed some other hikers on it, but not too many, which was surprising considering it was the AT. There were some really nice stone steps, and the trail was perfectly cut through the Rhododendrons, giving it sort of the feel that we were in Longwood Gardens or something.
Lerch was speeding along, and he ran ahead to take a nap at Quarry Gap Shelter. I had everyone wait up at the next trail intersection, which went to the left back to Caledonia. We continued up, and there was a guy passing us on the trail. He said "You're those hikers from Jersey, aren't you?". I asked how he knew that. He tried to play it off saying "I know everything that goes on up here!", but I knew he at met Lerch. Lerch had told him to f*** with us!
When we asked the guy what was interesting on this section, he pretty much said nothing but his shelter. He was the maintainer of the shelter ahead, Quarry Gap Shelter. Indeed, the shelter was quite a nice one, luxurious with potted plants hanging from it.
Quarry Gap Shelter
The shelter had two bunking areas, with a picnic common area in between. We we happened upon it, Lerch was napping on a tent platform. He'd been there for quite a while, because he blew way ahead of everyone.
We had a nice break there for a while before moving on. I let everyone know we'd probably not reconvene again until we got near the Milesburn Cabin, further down.
There really wasn't much to the AT in the area. It was much like the rest of Michaux State Forest that I've seen. We passed the Hosack Trail on the right, and then made our way over an area where we crossed dirt roads called Sandy Sod. Griers Hollow Road was the main one here, and we continued without much difference in elevation on across Methodist Hill, and then beyond on Big Pine Flat Ridge. We reconvened when we got to Griers Hollow Road, and for part of the time at Mean's Hollow Road. I had to walk around a little bit to be sure that this was the place. It was another great feeling getting here, connecting another missing link. My mood was again lifted.
None of us drank at all on this hike; I had some wine on the ride over with James, but from the start of the hike had nothing, and really didn't crave it either this time. All I could think about all day was Mexican food.
We descended to the Milesburn Cabin, which had someone in it. We waited by the road, and by the little stream there where Megan treated water for people who needed it into the camelbacks and bottles. We climbed from there on the AT further up the ridge until we got to the intersection with the Rocky Knob Trail, just after crossing Ridge Road.
Rocky Knob Trail was far less used than the others. It split in two a short distance after it started, and we gave everyone the option of taking the lower, easier route, or taking the upper route to the overlook. The guy we had met before the shelter at Quarry Gap told us there wasn't a view there any more, and I believed him. We forked off and up the hill, which wasn't a hard incline, and continued along the ledge with some seasonal views that were okay through the trees to the left.
View from Rocky Knob Trail
Then, we came upon a very nice view, which improved more as we moved on. First, Wolf Hill came into view, a pointy outcropping hill, then the Long Pine Run Reservoir came into view beyond. We would be walking down to that very soon, but it seemed so far away. It was actually very nice and we all stopped to take it in for a bit before moving on.
Just ahead, there was an enormous ant hill partially in the trail. We walked on by and then began our descent of Siers Hill, from which the view was. The trail then skirted the west side of Rocky Knob, it's namesake. I was surprised the trail didn't go over it, because it was topographically farm more interesting looking than everything else around. It looked like there might be good scrambling up it and maybe even a view. Maybe Jason knows better though.
Rattlesnake
As I walked ahead, continuing to lose elevation and passing through Rhododendrons and Mountain Laurels, I nearly stepped on a good sized Timber Rattlesnake basking in the trail. I immediately saw it move and jumped back. It coiled in what seemed like only a second and arched it's head back. I hurried back and stopped everyone that was in close proximity. We watched as it continued to slink it's body together, ready to strike.
We watched the snake for a bit as the rest of the group caught up, then we went to pass around it. The snake began to move off into the undergrowth to the right as we went around, and when it was barely visible any more it began to rattle.
We descended through another tunnel of Rhododendron and connected with the lower half of Rocky Knob Trail. The rest of the group were arriving at that point at that time, and we all continued together parallel with Knob Run. The trail crossed over this creek at what appeared to be either an old dam or raceway.
Raceway ruins?
The ditch I noted that crossed the trail headed parallel with it to the right, as we neared the creek. The trail side berm became a stacked pile of stones over the creek, looking like a dam. Perhaps the creek was once ushered into this causeway for mill purposes but has since found it's own course. That would be my best bet.
Stonework on the trail
After crossing the stones at Knob Run, we continued on a worn path toward Birch Run Road, but then Jason halted us and told us the trail didn't go that way. I didn't notice the blazes actually took us briefly up hill again, then down to cross the road. We waited at the road a minute then descended to the reservoir on the other side by way of Beaver Trail, a nice yellow blazed trail along the waterfront.
We decided to take a swim, as there were no signs anywhere saying not to do so (But there were plenty of signs saying 'no bikes'). While in there, a friendly man on a kayak came out and let us know that there was no swimming and that there are people who regularly patrol this. We chatted with him for a while, he was a pretty nice guy. He warned us about rattlesnakes, and I showed him the pictures I'd just taken.
We walked ahead a bit more and got a good group shot, courtesy of another lady hiking on through.
Long Pine Run Reservoir
The reservoir was stunning looking, and the Beaver Trail far nicer than what I thought we would find. There were many great outlooks and even some foot bridges and such. It was also nice to just be able to "enjoy the ride" with Jason and Megan taking over leading at this point. We wandered through a lovely evergreen grove, then to a nice observation deck and handicapped accessible ramp when we neared the road.
When we came to Birch Run Road, we crossed an inlet, then turned off to the left on the other side on another orange blazed trail, not noted with a name. We followed this along the shore for a bit longer, and it took us out at Milesburn Road. Some of the group was ahead, some was behind, and at first I didn't know what to do. There was a trail across the way, an old roadway that was the route of Locust Gap Trail, also known as Greenwood Road on some maps. We followed that, and when I saw Jason up there I knew it was right. Megan stayed behind to sweep.
We followed the Locust Gap Trail past the Hosack Trail, then on to Caledonia State Park at a gate where we stopped for people to catch up. We let everyone reconvene here this time. It was really nice to know we were already back to the park somewhat early, and could really just enjoy the relaxing end to the trip. We all turned left from here onto Quarry Gap Road, heading into the park.
Conversation kept coming back to food over the course of the hike; I kept going on about Sheetz and how I loved it. Jason I mentioned that there was a good Mexican place on Lincoln Highway heading back toward Rt 81. Kumpas made a comment after a few times bringing the place up "If you go to Jason's Mexican restaurant, you may get the 'sheetz'". Jason I responded "Oh yeah, well it's on the same road, you would pass the Sheetz on Lincoln Highway...". Kumpas and I laughed rather uncontrollably, and he replied "We've missed you Jason!".
We reached the Conococheague Creek at a little empounded dam area, and began following a gravel road toward the active use area of the park. When most of the group continued ahead into that section, Jason Kumpas proposed a route we might like better, through the group area. From there, we turned it over to him, while much of the group continued to the park concession stand.
We waded over the creek and into a lovely grove of very old Hemlocks. There was a dry former raceway that might date back to the days of the furnace and an informal path through. We came through an abandoned picnic area with beat up old picnic benches that have not seen public use in probably many many years. We then came out to an old scout building or something that has been repurposed as the group camping building.
We walked through the beautiful group camp sites, then took a trail out of it through more evergreens to a lovely water filled raceway, and the route of Thaddeus Stevens Historic Trail.
Raceway on Thaddeus Stevens Historic Trail
We turned left to follow this beautiful raceway. It was absolutely stunning. The waterway took us to a beautiful little pond that retained the water for the use in the mills further down stream.
Jason commented that it was amazing that this was preserved, that the dams and raceways weren't let to deteriorate like in so many other places. Even when they rebuilt the road ahead, it was done in such a way as to preserve the historic features of this former iron works.
Lovely pond on Thaddeus Stevens Historic Trail
The trail led us around the outside of the pond, and out to Pine Grove Road. We crossed the road, then ascended on the trail rather steeply while the raceway flowed out of the pond and under the road in a narrow area. The trail achieved a good amount of elevation above the raceway and road, but then descended again when there was enough clear space on the other side of the raceway to walk. Apparently it was only routed above to provide safe walkway for pedestrians.
Demo of charcoal creation
In the next section, Pine Grove Road descended below us, but the raceway maintained the gradual pitch to keep water flowing toward the furnace site. On the opposite side of the raceway were numbered posts detailing how charcoal was made by colliers of bygone days. It was really a well done interpretive site.
It wasn't long and we reached the spot where the raceway spilled off to the little waterfall we'd passed in the morning. I went over to have a closer look at the lovely little spot.
Raceway
The trail crossed the raceway and descended to the parking lot where we started. I was glad to come out this way rather than the way we came. It was a really cool way of closing in the loop without doubling back on anything we'd already done. There were people all climbing onto the furnace and wandering around. Only a few from the rest of the group had already arrived because the rest were pigging out at the concession stand. We hung out for a bit, and just as we were ready to go and hunt them down, we spotted their figures, food in hand coming our way.
The little waterfall at the end of the raceway in Caledonia
Christian offered up some delicious cheese fries he had purchased, but none of what anybody got seemed to curb appetite very much because conversation immediately turned to what we could eat again.
After much going back and forth, it was decided that we would stop at Sheetz on the way back.
SHEETZ!!!
I think everyone was in pretty high spirits, and the meal at Sheetz was ridicules and great. We all pigged out like crazy, consuming their giant burritos quickly. Everyone probably got far more food than was necessary. I had a hot dog and giant burrito gone in no time. Christian nearly ate himself into a coma. Lerch ordered too much too, and tried to continue forcing onion rings upon me, which would have meant my demise had I not practiced some semblance of self control.
I had eaten so much food, I amazingly felt exactly the same as I would have had I spent the entire day binge drinking. But it was absolutely glorious.
Coma
The hikes have been going so well, and things are feeling very right. I'll declare good times are in the pipeline. Hoorah.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2x8i0ewGdM
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