Hike #866; Mount Tremper to Shandaken
7/19/15 Mount Tremper to Shandaken with Jillane Becker, Gregg Hudis, Cindy Simmons, Chris "Cupcake" Kroschinski, Tamara Sapilak, Ariel, Michele Valerio, Dan Asnis, Serious Sean Dougherty, Carla ?, Jen Berndt, Kathy Kindness, Ed DiSalvo, Marion Barbado, Terri Allen, Shayna Michaels, Erika Daniels, Justin Gurbisz, Carl Manzi, Natalia Gockman, Rajan Kumar, ? Kumar, and Mark ?.
The group at Phoenicia Station
Our next hike would be another point to point, this time back to the Catskills on another former Ulster and Delaware right of way themed trip.
This railroad has become somewhat of a fascination for me since my first time seeing it. Of course, I had heard of the rail lines to the Catskills, the Rip Van Winkle Flyer, and other related things prior to ever walking it or doing any hiking in the Catskills. The Catskills not so long ago felt like an out of reach, faraway place, but since connecting it with everything else I've done, it's becoming more and more of a priority for me to go.
The railroads in the Catskills started with the Catskill and Canajoharie line, which was involved in timber and the tanneries of the area. Some of this was utilized after 1866 as the Ulster and Delaware Railroad, which by 1900 would connect all the way from Kingston Point to Oneonta in the Susquehanna River valley. It was the only railroad to actually cross the Catskills completely.
The railroad started it's life operating between Thomas Cornell's steamboat station on the Hudson River at Kingston Point. Aside from the earlier tannery businesses, the new boom of the area was the tourism of great Catskill resorts. Spurs to Hunter and Tannersville catered to the well to do New Yorkers in the railroad's heyday.
We had hiked the Ulster and Delaware line in segments in the past. When I was close to connecting to the Catskills, Jillane and I started a backpack trip on the Ulster and Delaware at Bloomville, at the northern end of the Catskills, where it is Catskill Scenic Trail. We spent four full days and one half day on the hike, following it through South Kortright, Hobart, Stamford, Grand Gorge, down to Roxbury, to Arkville, Fleischmann's, Big Indian, and Alleben to name a few.
Map of Ulster and Delaware lines
Later, we did a couple of trips in Kingston, from Kingston Point inland to Kingston Plaza and along other area rail beds. Another time we hiked from Bluestone Wild Forest on their trails to the Ulster and Delaware line, then followed the tracks back to Kingston Plaza, and one more time we followed the tracks from Bluestone Wild Forest to Mount Tremper. I became very familiar with the entire line save for the section missing between Mount Tremper and Allaben, at Fox Hollow where we turned off our first time on it.
The line is operated by two different groups; in Delaware County, the Delaware and Ulster Railroad runs excursions along the tracks from Arkville up to Roxbury. In Ulster County, Catskill Mountain Railroad operates excursions from Kingston to Hurley Mountain in the east, and in Mount Tremper in the west. The line is severed in the middle because the Boiceville Bridge was washed out in 2011, as well as a section of track at Mount Tremper. FEMA money was awarded to repair the line, but only one section to the west of Mount Tremper was fixed up, only because the railroad was acting as a buffer for the regular highway, and it's repair would protect the road.
The right of way was in usable shape for much of the way, especially from Kingston to Phoenicia save for those two bad sections in need of repair. I didn't know of any effort going behind trying to save any of it, so I didn't consider anything else for a while. I began sharing some of my photos of the past trips on the U&D on the Metrotrails facebook page, as well as on the Abandoned rails group forums, which generated some interest. I saw some postings from the Friends of the Catskill Mountain Rail Trail page, a relatively new facebook page showcasing plans to turn most of the former U&D corridor into a trail.
Naturally, as a trail person I was very excited about this. Everything seemed good to me, and there was no opposition to this on their page whatsoever. I was just like the majority of people who don't see the truth right away. I 'liked' the page and went about my business as usual, and continued to share photos from my recent trips, particularly of the washout at Mount Tremper.
Immediately, I got some hate messages from rail fans, against me as a trail person. I had already begun to talk to several individuals about the rails and the trails, and I was finding out there were some issues with the Ulster County trail plan. I made it clear on all of these forums that I was also a rail fan, and through them I found out that Ulster County was trying to remove the railroad, including the actively used excursion line, in favor of constructing a trail.
Mt. Tremper washout
I was impressed with the passion the folks at Catskill Mountain Railroad displayed, and I agreed that Rail with Trail is the best option; I of course an for trails, but NOT if it is at the expense of existing, sustainable rail infrastructure.
I went back to the Friends of the Catskill Mountain Rail Trail page. They were even asking for suggestions on the page about the trails. I told them how rail with trail would be a great option for everyone, and I got something back about how there is just not enough room for both there, and that the trains can't get to the closed portion of track anyway. When they said it wasn't wide enough, I suggested a rail WITH trail option where QP is placed between or along rails rather than removing them, and how it can act as an erosion deterrent. I also cited that I worked for years as maintenance person on seven miles of the Columbia Trail, a rail trail in Hunterdon County, and that washouts would be an issue because topography on this line was so similar.
Rail with trail example on a past trip
Within a few minutes of posting, my photo and comment had been removed by the administrators of the page. I thought perhaps it was a glitch, or took a while for it to show up. I again tried to post the same. I also posted other examples of applicable ideas from similar rail corridors, but they were almost immediately removed. I took it as a challenge when they told me rails with trails could not be done.
Soon, I received a message that thanked me for my interest, but none of these options would work with their plan. I had already been getting comments back from other users stating "Yeah, this looks great! Can we try this in Ulster?". These comments too disappeared with my posting.
I found the removal of these comments to be not only insulting, but cowardly. If their plan were indeed the best plan, shouldn't their arguments for it stand on their own despite alternate opinions?
Even worse, I was blocked on my Facebook account from commenting on any posts by Friends of Catskill Mountain Railroad. The Metrotrails page too was blocked from leaving any comments.
I began getting more vocal. I spoke up about issues I knew about elsewhere, and that I'd heard was beginning to happen in Ulster. Rumors of political payoffs, came up, and it was found that owners of companies made hefty political contributions under their own names, but their companies would get contracts. I started throwing out numbers and facts out there, and then started getting some rather threatening messages.
Screen shot
This happened just as I put some information out about statistics on trail users. Ulster is trying to say having this trail will bring in exorbitant amounts of money to local businesses, but I cited that they have two rail trails already, one of which begins at Kingston Plaza as their plan for the Catskill Mountain Rail Trail does, and that on two beautiful days we hiked it and passed only two other people. Further, hikers don't spend a lot of money; they come to town, and in the case of groups in my experience bring lunch and snacks. They might spend a few dollars here and there, but this will not mean the fortune Ulster is predicting.
Throughout social media, Ulster County and trail only advocates (of which there were very very few) would comment that there are laws that prohibit them from constructing a trail that is not so and so wide, or have a certain surface, etc. I had already proven time and again that these claims were false.
I received a comment at random, saying "We'll see how free you are....when you ruffle the government's feathers...". I started asking around on the forums I belonged to on Facebook. It didn't take long for someone to tell me that the guy who left the comment was a retired railroad guy, now working for Ulster County as a consultant. I was told he was reaching out to other people who were offering alternative opinions in the same way. Bully tactics on the part of the county. I was livid. I took a screen shot of it fortunately before it was removed.
I let the guys at Catskill Mountain Railroad know what was going on, and started planning what I could post to help them out. They had their own friends groups on facebook, which of course have more fans than the county's pages. I logged onto their two local newspaper pages and left comments about the railroad as well. The Daily Freeman I found removed comments too, pretty much as soon as they were posted. Then, when discussions started getting good, they would "close the comment period". Kingston Times was a bit better, but I felt that even they opted to hold back a bit more, maybe out of fear of what their government might do. Their comment periods were longer, and my personal discussions with them better and more open, but I sensed that they had to try to make things seem neutral.
Soon, more Facebook pages, more 'official' pages sprung up for Ulster County. There was some sort of Ulster/Kingston one that posted stuff, and soon after commenting, respectfully and with reasonable suggestions, I was again blocked. It wasn't just me, anyone posting any opinions contrary to those of the county were removed and banned from posting.
The next one that really ate at me was the "Ulster County Trails Advisory Committee" page. Apparently, they put out a question for suggestions on the trail, and those wanting to keep the rail posted in favor of rail WITH trail alignment. These comments and users were barred from commenting too. At that point, the page put up something saying that they were "not a government entity", and that if anyone put up anything about keeping the rails in place, they would be removed and blocked.
I made a respectful note that stated in their name alone they are contradicting themselves, by placing the county name and identifying themselves as an appointed committee. I went on to politely ask them not to removed comments I leave if it may be contrary to what they wish, because I represent a contingent of people who visit Ulster County to use it's trails, a group they are trying to attract, and these opinions should be of value. I also stated that, as Chairman of a County Recreation Board, I cannot post anything on the county's page without first going through our Land Preservation Department.
In Warren County, we have a great deal of respect for one another despite any contrary opinions we might have, and I would never get away with posting something in the way they had done. I wouldn't try.
An official government Facebook page, being an open public forum not unlike a newspaper, should not legally be able to manipulate it's shared media in order to swap public perception. I copied some law on first amendment rights and public forums. I received a response on my comment from Ulster County Trails Advisory Committee:
"A rule, unless consistently applied, is not a rule".
Ulster screen shot. They left their comment about rules after deleting my previous comment.
I went back to my rail with trail photos, made a status for myself and for Metrotrails showing rail WITH trail options, how it could work, despite the fact that Ulster County was claiming that by law trails must be to these certain specs. I then went on and tagged the government page as follows: But to quote Ulster County Trails Advisory Committee, 'A rule, unless consistently applied, is not a rule'". Of course, they removed the tag from the page and quote rather quickly, but everyone could still see my posting.
As time went on, Ulster continued it's attack on Catskill Mountain Railroad, removing the Big Indian bridge over the Esopus Creek without consulting them, the lessee. They continue to sit on the available FEMA money to repair the line. They spread lies to public who aren't as intrepid as we to get out and actually see the line. In my only follow up conversation with anyone from the rail trail plan, they sent me a photograph of the line, claiming it was along the Ashokan Reservoir, showing large trees growing through it, and stating that Catskill Mountain Railroad is not keeping it clear. I recognized the site of the picture as being near Big Indian, where they can't even get trains to any more due to worse washouts, and called them out on the lie. They also sent me a photo of a large pile of garbage that they said was on the tracks. I had just walked it and told them no such trash pile exists where they claimed. The conversation abruptly ended and has not resumed.
I began talks with Catskill Mountain Railroad for a promotional trip; we would ride the train to a certain point, then get off and hike. The idea was to showcase how the railroad and hikers could work together, if only at a small scale. They were totally supportive of this, and we began to make our plans.
I set the date aside months in advance. I wanted to do far more promotion for it than this, but I've been so busy with the Jersey Perimeter series that it's hard to focus so much on another big item. Still, I had to do this, and there were already plans in place to do another similar trip in the future.
Jillane and I came out the day before and did a little exploring. We revisited some towns we had gone to when we were up on our backpack trip a couple of years back, had a nice dinner, and visited the yard in Arkville.
#14 in Hunterdon
I later found out through my friend Shane Blische that there was another personal connection for me in this area, which came as a rather big surprise. The locomotive parked in Arkville I had said looked similar to one I had been inside on several occasions when I was really little. It had been part of a New York City yard, moving cars around, then sold to Black River and Western Railroad in Hunterdon County. It was open for people to stand in and take photos.
Engine #14, we meet again
I've had a great interest in trains and railroads my entire life, spurred by my grandfather's walking me around on them. When I was barely able to walk, my grandmother would drive me home past the Washington railroad yard, sometimes chasing the trains on back roads for me so I could see them.
Little M'ke, 5 years old in #14
The first ever locomotive that I had ever been inside was the #14 engine at Turntable Junction in Flemington on the BRW. Shane confirmed for me when he saw the photo I took of it that this was in fact the same engine I had sat inside 30 years ago. It's amazing that this locomotive that helped to spur my passion for railroading was preserved and sitting on the tracks of a railroad I am trying to help justify saving.
Jillane and I stayed at a nice little hotel in Bushnellsville NY, and in the morning I got up early and walked down to the Esopus Valley to the start point. It was cooler in the morning, but the day was predicted to be the hottest the Catskills had seen yet for the year. Surprisingly, south Jersey was to be only about seventy degrees, while the Catskills would see over ninety.
Everyone met at a parking area in Allaben, near the intersection of Rt 48 and Fox Hollow Road. About 25 attended the hike, which I was very happy about. I wanted it to be a really huge turnout for the sake of the Catskill Mountain Railroad folks, but 25 is still really good. We shuttled from the parking lot by Fox Hollow east to Boiceville area, at something google maps calls Maurice Hinchey Catskill Interpretive Center. The planned hike would fill in the gaps of the section of the Ulster and Delaware I had not yet hiked. When Jillane and I backpacked we turned off onto the Giant Ledge/Panther/Fox Hollow Trail at Allaben, and on the other hike we turned off the tracks at Mt. Tremper.
Old cemetery
We started at the large parking area and had to wait for a few others to show up. It's a very long ride for everyone just coming for the day, so it takes a while for them to get up there. We had some just meet us at the start, where there was a kiosk and good parking lot. This was just to the south of the site of the 1779 Fort Shandaken which was used during the American Revolution to ward against enemy attacks. Nearby Kingston was one of the few stockade towns, and one of few that still retain a stockade district.
We walked our way to the north on the highway, which was the most unpleasant part of the hike in my opinion, but got to turn off to the left into a lovely old cemetery on the banks of the Esopus. We walked out and around the outside of it, and actually found some very old fieldstone graves that we could barely read anything on. They probably date back to the 1700s. The earliest grave I could find of better material was dated 1819.
We immediately started with the silliness, singing and carrying on, Serious Sean carrying his guitar for which he actually remembered to bring a strap for instead of the bungee. Jen and Erika were both wearing silly skunk's tails for the entire hike!
Fort Shandaken site
We climbed over the wrought iron cemetery fence heading out, and I saw some more tomb stones out in the weeds from here. Some of it is just not maintained. We continued on Rt 28, and I walked on top of the guide rail next to the road out to the bridge over the Esopus Creek. It was at this point that we joined the route of the previous hike.
Before, we walked the railroad to the Mt Tremper washout, then turned right through woods out to Rt 28 and headed to the Long Path trail head where we parked on roads.
Walking the berm
I had originally planned to walk the tracks there, but it was going to be too late. I connected that with the next hike by walking the Long Path from the same lot on the next Catskills hike.
After crossing the bridge, we turned right on Riseley Road into a lightly populated hamlet. This took us to the west end of the Mt. Pleasant Road bridge, which on the previous hike we climbed to the top of. The 'no trespassing' sign on it read in such a way that the 'no' was not as visible, and below 'trespassing', kids had put 'kix ass'.
We turned left here along the berm beside the Esopus Creek for some beautiful views.
Bridge
We were greeted by a lady walking her dog off leash; the road is so little used that it's apparently very safe. We walked along the berm as far as it would take us, then continued on the road briefly to a complex of restaurant, hotel, and meeting center or something on the right. There was a lovely little pond, and no signs saying to keep out, so we opted to walk along the back of this land closer to the creek. It ended up being very pretty to walk.
Lovely Mt. Tremper view
We followed a gravel road behind the place, and then followed a path down along the river more closely. This led to a set of steps going back up to a round pavilion of sorts. We checked it out, but moved along as not to cause a problem. A guy dressed as a chef came out of the building next to the pavilion and glared at us ominously as we strolled on by.
We next came to a parking area Jillane and I had visited the night before, and I recommended maps that were the best there for people to take. We wandered along the grass and meandering paved path to reach Rt 28, right where the tracks crossed. We walked to the right on the tracks a very short distance over a bridge to reach the Mt. Tremper Station, where we would board the train. The plan from here was to take the train to the Mt. Tremper washout where they would let us off.
Catskill Mountain Railroad
Upon arrival, I was surprised that none of the employees knew we were coming or of any group rate that I had discussed prior. Apparently someone who was originally supposed to be there wasn't able to make it. Fortunately, we worked everything out and it went as planned. They just seemed very happy we had such a big and interested group. Jillane and Cindy showed up at the station here to join for the rest of the trip.
In a passenger car
We all boarded the train and headed into one of the well maintained old passenger cars. It was kind of hot in there, so Jillane and I opted to head back out of there and instead go for one of the open top cars. The train didn't leave at 11:00 on the dot like planned, so we had to wait around a bit, which would also make the hike go for longer. Fortunately, everyone was a good sport about this.
The train first went to the west on the tracks, toward Phoenicia. We only went as far as a sort of open area where we could see Mount Tremper and the Esopus Creek, then turned back around to head to the east.
Crossing 28
We soon passed the Mount Tremper Station where we came aboard, and then crossed Route 28. There was a crossing guard stationed there with a sign to assist with the crossing, as it would have been in the old days. We then entered the woods, which was lush and green, and passed another engine and a caboose.
Like little kids on the train
Lackawanna wheel trucks
We must have seemed like little kids having fun on the train, but with some more railroad knowledge. Cupcake pointed out to me that the wheel trucks on the cars of the train were that of the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railroad, which has always been one of my favorites, if not my favorite lines.
Serious Sean had his guitar out, and when I requested some train music, he came out with something I wasn't expecting: "Crazy Train" by Ozzie Osborne. We sang for a bit, and when we got to the end of the line where they usually turn everyone back around, near to the washout, we were all permitted to get off the train. The conductor helped everyone down, and the train waited for us to safely continue beyond to the other side. It was driven by a small yellow diesel engine the likes of which I've not seen before, but still interesting.
CMRR!
We said goodbye and made our way down the tracks toward the Mount Tremper washout. I wanted everyone to see the scale of the damage, but how it was certainly fixable. With this repair and the replacement of the Boiceville bridge, the line could continue all the way down to Kingston. We climbed on the tracks briefly, then headed back to the west.
Mt. Tremper washout
We continued to the rocky outcropping to the Esopus Creek where we'd stopped to swim on our previous trip. We again stopped here, and I was first to jump in. The water was freezing cold, but it was so hot out that it was refreshing. A lot of the group wanted to jump in, and this was a spot I had planned for a break point. It was about noon by this time, so we all hung out there a bit. I jumped in three times, but was the only one to hang out in the water for any length of time. Eventually my hands started to hurt from it! It was that cold!
Along the Esopus
After our swim stop, we passed the train again. There wasn't a lot of room, but we were able to get off to the side very easily. This was the only part of the plan that didn't work really great. There is a lot of room to do rail with trail plans, but it would need to be graded further to the side and cleared more. We continued walking, and the train came back the other way. We got off to the sides yet again to let it pass. The tracks soon paralleled Mount Pleasant Road, then came to the crossing of Rt 28. I told everyone to get far off to the side at this point, but had trouble getting everyone to listen. Some were just staying closer, which is bad. No one was in danger of being hit, but at that area, especially in line of sight, we don't want the railroad to have any liability issues.
Along the line
The guys from the railroad were concerned about that sort of thing, and rightfully so. The way Ulster County has been, they'll look for any reason they can to try to cause the railroad a problem. Overall our trip was good promotion for the railroad, and some already plan on coming back for more.
We got back to Mt. Tremper station, then continued on along the tracks heading to the west. We got to beyond where the train goes, then continued on the slightly more overgrown tracks. It was in good shape, and I'm surprised they're not running trains over that section too. It's definitely easy to get trains over it it would seem.
Along the tracks
The tracks came very close to Esopus Creek for a while, and eventually we got to the spot where it had washed out in recent years, the section where the county had repaired it because it serves to retain the highway. I climbed down and had a look inside a big pipe that had been installed before heading onward, and I got myself into the water again to cool off.
From there, we closely paralleled Rt 28 and the tracks moved away from the creek a bit. We paralleled Sleepy Hollow Campground too, where there was a small station stop for the campgrounds. Soon, the tracks turned away from the highway as well.
Along the line
We took a break to regroup at an old farm crossing, then continued onward into the old railroad yards approaching Phoenicia Station. We made our way soon to the start of a rail yard, getting pretty overgrown with a lot of equipment around. We could hear the roar of a lawn mower as we made our way in. Indeed, the place was being looked after and cared for, it is just a lot of work.
As we reached the station, there was a man there on a riding mower taking care of the grounds. The station was now the home of the Empire State Railway Museum, well restored and cared for by the group. I started talking to the man, who stopped his mower to chat with us. Some of the group kept walking, but then he offered a tour of the station. I called everyone back.
Inside the station
We went inside to have a look around, and it was quite beautiful. He told us they have live music events that go over well, and that the ceiling in the place is the only one like it as I recall. It reminded me of an old station Jillane and I looked around in Grand Gorge, on the same line, but in bad shape. This one was in great shape through and through. They had tons of books to check out, and Jillane and I sifted through them a bit. There were lots of displays including a scale model of what the rail yard used to look like and where the predecessor to this station used to be.
The area also used to be a junction, though remains of such were obscured and not immediately apparent. This was something that had been abandoned for much longer. The branch line went across the Esopus Creek to head up to Tannersville and to Hunter.
Junction site at Phoenicia
We had a really nice break at this point, and got a group shot. The guy running the museum as I recall was Mr. Moorhead. A lot of us gave some donations to the museum, which keeps it going. We headed out from this point along the tracks heading to the north. They had a miniature train nearby on a small track, as well as other cars and an engine. One had alien faces painted in the window. The junction with the Kaaterskill Branch was somewhere in this vicinity, as we neared Bridge Street.
This road was the route of the Long Path, which we somehow missed on our previous trip. We walked across down and had to climb down the Rt 43 overpass that time.
Phoenicia Station
We checked out an old passenger car before turning right onto Bridge Street, our first time seeing the aqua colored Long Path blazes for the day. We crossed the creek, and there were tubers everywhere. An outfitter was immediately on the other side, with people lined up getting tubes and getting a talking to about river safety. I could see no signs of any former rail abutment in the creek from the bridge. We continued into Phoenicia and regrouped on the corner in town.
Near the Phoenicia junction point
Here, I gave everyone the option of heading off to get lunch in town, or doing a short loop with me on the base of Mount Tremper. There was a somewhat new trail called the Tanbark Trail that made a loop just outside of town, from a field with a playground. We would do the loop while others would take a longer break.
Justin, Cindy, Ed, Cathy, Justin, Carl, Rajan, and his son went with us. Two others headed partway up but turned back earlier because it was too steep.
Tanbark Trail
I went into a store to figure out where we had to go to get to the trail. The girl behind the counter didn't know, but a patron coming in did. She told me her husband ran an outfitter in town, and that it was a nice trail. She directed us down the street, to the field with the playground, behind which the trail went up the hill.
This particular trail is on private land, but is standard blazed. It has tags on trees rather than paint, and could use a little help, but overall was good. The stone work done on it was not just some mediocre job either. It was quite nice.
The trail went into the woods and immediately began climbing between rocks, formerly an area quarried for bluestone. It made it's way below a vertical ridge and switched back left and right a few times heading up. After several turns, we reached an old woods road, one of the original "Tanbark Trails" used by the earlier settlers to haul the hemlock bark down, the essential resource for tanning leather. The rest of the trees during that day in age were considered waste product. The trail continued up hill to a junction point, where we could go left or right. A sign on the trail recommended and suggested that it was designed to be walked in this clockwise method, so we turned left.
Phoenicia Overlook
Soon, we came to the Phoenicia Overlook. This was quite a great view of the town and valley, also with Romer Mountain and Mount Pleasant in view. I thought about how we'd climbed those and followed the Long Path across at one time. A sign on the trail said that this trail might one day connect to the Tremper Mountain Fire Tower. When that happens, that will probably become part of the Long Path.
After enjoying the view, we continued on the trail, which surprised me because it continued to ascend. We followed a woods road a bit more, then it turned off to the right as a foot path, sometimes picking up old faint woods roads along the way. The trail eventually leveled out and continued along the top of a level for a while. There were sometimes no blazes for a good while, probably because they were hammered to the trees, and nailed in all the way.
Rt 42 bridge in Phoenicia at Grandview Ledge
We descended rather steeply on woods road, then turned off woods road and descended even more steeply over often loose rocks. Fortunately everyone made it over them very well. My map was showing that this trail was only a 2.5 mile loop, but I've a notion that is inaccurate. The trail continued down over rocks, and somewhat obscured views first showed up from the Grandview Ledge. We moved on a little bit further and were treated to an absolutely fantastic view of the Esopus Valley.
View from Grandview Ledge
We continued on the trail, which descended to another old woods road, and followed that down hill. The trail turned off to the right again, and soon we closed in the loop we had done at the intersection next to a little stream crossing. I made sure everyone knew that that was our turn, and then hurried on ahead. Justin and I ended up ahead of the pack taking the switchbacks down to the bottom. We could see the others close to us on these steep switchbacks as we made our way down. We got to the playground, and I jogged back to the rest of the group at the store. I headed in for some refreshment before continuing on.
When everyone was caught up, we headed back the way we came, across Esopus Creek to the tracks. Unfortunately, the tracks beyond where we turned off were completely overgrown. They're in bad shape due to washouts and such, and most of it is beyond the railroad's control. We were forced to walk High Street parallel with the railroad here. These tracks had not seen service in many many years, and then the rails disappeared altogether when we neared the Rt 28 underpass. There seemed to be a well built right over where the railroad was. We kept following High Street, which is also the route of the Long Path. We hiked this back in September. When the Long Path turned off to the left, we continued on High Street. The tracks came into view again, in the weeds to the right. Bits of it were possible to walk, but in many cases the rails were covered over with vegetation and even earth. Ryan Lennox had told me that the rails were still in most the way, but that it's gotten obscured. He was right; when I got to a creek access point I could see the rails barely peeking through the surface. Siltation from past floods have certainly covered over some sections like here. We could see where the crossing was at Woodland Valley, and when we got to where the railroad would have crossed a bridge over Woodland Creek, there was no sign of it. I could not even make out the remains of abutments.
Rails
We continued walking along what was shown as Herdman Road on Google maps, and when it looked possible we would return to the tracks. We got on and back from them a few times. Before Woodland Valley, we all went down and walked them a bit, but then it got terrible so we had to climb back up. We went down again just after Woodland Valley, but then we came to a point where the rails were washed out into the Esopus Creek yet again.
Washout past Woodland Valley
I figured we'd best not try to get through this mess, we'll head on back up to the road and continue past this obstacle. We climbed on back up and turned right to follow the road west for a while.
The road gained some elevation, and then lost some. I kept my eyes on the creek below to see when the washout ended and if we could return to the tracks. No one seemed keen on going back to the often overgrown tracks in this area. As I began to see the tracks again, I noted that they looked different this time. They seemed clear. Totally clear. I announced to everyone that it looked like someone had been taking a speeder down these tracks. I climbed down and found the line to be totally cleared of trees and looking great. I called out for everyone to join me.
Ulster and Delaware line
Ryan Lennox had told me he lived off of this road, and I knew right away, that since he lives here he must have been bringing his speeder he owns out on this to do maintenance. I could see the marks on the rails of where a small vehicle had been using it. We followed the tracks with no problem from here to the west.
Metrotrails group meets Ryan Lennox
As we walked, we came to a grade driveway crossing. Everyone was continuing on the tracks, which remained pretty clear on the other side, when a guy came walking out of a house right across from us. I recognized him from facebook as being Ryan Lennox himself. He was originally planning to join this hike, but prior obligations kept him from joining. I called everyone back to meet him.
I was correct in assuming Ryan had been keeping the right of way clear with his speeder. He told us we'd find another mile of it pretty clear as we headed west, which was nice to hear. The rest of it was passable, but not as easy. He assured us that it was possible, but that we'd have to be somewhat intrepid. Once he said we could get through, I was less concerned, but he also told us that we were about the reach the absolute worst washouts on the entire corridor. I had thought the worst one was at Mt. Tremper prior to seeing this last one at Woodland Valley area. Ryan said "No...no, this is worse!". I was actually pretty excited to see it.
U&D corridor
We said goodbye and made our way along the tracks to the west more. It was all pretty passable, and there were some grading issues that would need to be fixed, but it wasn't too bad. There was also a giant old quarry boulder on the tracks that Ryan told us he'd already had a plan to remove.
As much as I'd like to see rail service continue all the way through, after seeing what they'd done in Phoenicia with the well, and then the missing bridge at Woodland Valley, I believe they won't be able to reactivate rail service west of Phoenicia, and not develop a trail either. If a trail were to go in, it should only be a simple thing along the right of way, a foot path like the rest of the NY NJ Trail Conference trails.
Washout!
We kept walking the tracks pleasantly along the Esopus Creek westbound without much issue until we got to the next washout point. This one was indeed very bad. The mangled rails went down into the creek, but were still connected along the slope. I got on the one rail and used it to climb down to the bottom, and then we used it as a guide to get past the washout. Justin and I went right down to trace the route, but most of the group stayed up above to walk around the washout.
Washout
I was trying to be a "purist" and actually walk the right of way on through. The water got rather deep, but the rails were not severed. I kept on them, with Justin right there with me, and we climbed up the tracks to the end of the washout. While climbing back up, one of the ties let loose, and I almost fell through. We managed to climb past it and got back to the level railroad again.
Washout
Even after we had regained regular track again, it was overgrown more due to it's inaccessibility, and there were some minor washouts that left sections of track teetering and nearly ready to fall off into the creek.
Soon, we reached yet ANOTHER washout, the bent tracks descending helplessly into the waters of Esopus Creek. The way Ryan described it to us, I had thought there would only be one more washout. This was already the second one. Some of the group went around again, and again I went down to try to follow it.
The tracks were literally in the creek bed, looking as if they had been intentionally laid there.
Washout
I walked these tracks through the water, in awe of how amazing it is that they stayed together. The floods that took this trackage out had rather obviously happened before Tropical Storms Irene and Sandy. It would be a huge undertaking to repair the railroad through this section. The entire right of way is in fact gone. The Esopus had shifted position and the former site of the railroad is now over twenty feet out into the waterway.
Railroad in the river
There really is just no way rail service or trail can be put back through this section any time in the near future. I know we need to try to push for keeping the rails in place from Kingston to Phoenicia, and maybe let them do the trail thing from there to Big Indian where the bridge was removed. The damage we saw here was absolutely immense.
Washout
I climbed back up the other side of this washout, and the tracks were even more overgrown. Ariel ran way ahead of the group at one time, and Cupcake and I ran too, as there was a sort of fishing trail along the route, but soon there was not even that. We had to leave the tracks and follow the slope of the mountainside to the left of the tracks in order to get through.
We came upon more smaller washouts as well, things that would require some more serious engineering in order to restore.
Washout
Sections of rail were suspended in the air, it was quite interesting to see. We continued fighting through this, and much of the group got far ahead of me and many others. We took a break at one point, and half the group went ahead because they wanted to get done earlier. When it got really weedy, they opted instead to bushwhack to the creek and then wade across the Esopus. As we moved ahead, they were across a small washout waterway in some thick stuff. We could hear but couldn't see them. I think it was Ed's head popped out and asked how we got over there. I didn't have any advise for them except to try to get over the creek. They soon disappeared into the weeds as we pushed ahead.
I found my way down the tracks a bit more after a period of keeping to the left of them, then found a way to get over them and to the shore of the creek, which was pretty easy to walk. We came out right across and up stream from where Jillane and I had had dinner the night before, a bar called Rocco's. We sort of decided to just wade across an take the road back because it was getting too tough. Cupcake called me names and kept going, because he wanted to follow the rail line through.
I decided after that I'd try to stick with him. I walked on and found an easy path, which led right out to the abandoned but easily walkable Station Road, parallel with the tracks! Jillane and Cindy were nearly across, but I told them what I'd just found, and they came to join Justin and I heading for that road. Cupcake was already way ahead and out of sight.
Crossing the Esopus
Most of the group opted not to take a gamble and went across the creek to continue on the road the last mile or so. I could also see some of the rest of the group farther down stream from one vantage point, also crossing.
We got on the old Station Road, and soon it became drivable. It started off as just a grassy woods road, but then went into the shade and it was quite easy. the tracks crossed over the road to the left side, and were in fine shape, then crossed again to the right side. On the next straightaway, we could see Cupcake and Ariel ahead. We made our way along the road, as the tracks went off behind some abandoned residences on the right, and hit Fox Hollow Road. We turned right here past a few more abandoned houses to cross the creek on a bridge. This was where Jillane and I had left the rail line when we backpacked through in 2011. It was nice to have succeeded in connecting this section of the railroad.
We got out to the main highway directly across from where we had met in the morning without a problem, and Justin I think it was took Jillane and I back to her car at Mt. Tremper Station. We had enough vehicles to get everyone back to where they needed to be.
The tracks looking a little better near Allaben
Jillane and I headed to Woodstock and had a nice pizza dinner at an outdoor seating spot, which was really nice. My mind was still processing what I'd seen on the old rail line. Such a great job had been done to preserve the rail line, and the passionate folks at Catskill Mountain Railroad and Empire State Railway Museum offer sweat equity the likes of which Ulster County could never emulate. I thought about Ryan Lennox and his speeder, performing countless hours of maintenance to keep the right of way clear, but is his work going to serve only to make Ulster's job of turning it into a trail only alignment easier? Certainly, everything from Phoenicia eastbound to Kingston should be retained for rail service, with replacement of Boiceville bridge and restoration of the bad washout at Mount Tremper. The other three washouts west of Phoenicia are beyond what can be repaired without major effort. I can only imagine regulations on Esopus Creek would keep such a project tied up for years, be it rail or trail or both. If anything, it should be opened as a foot path, not some monstrosity of a bike path because it will not be sustainable.
The entire right of way from Phoenicia to Kingston remains open and pretty clear thanks to the efforts of Catskill Mountain Railroad, at absolutely no cost to tax payers. If a trail were to be built on it only, it will fall on the county as managing agency to either maintain it or pay an outside contractor to do so. With Catskill Mountain Railroad interested in Rail with Trail rather than the county's trail only insistence, and offers to help maintain such a dual use trail, it obviously makes most sense to explore options in that regard.
Even if we cannot have a dual use rail with trail, I favor the rail only alignment in these parts, because it's something special, and there is always potential down the road when there are more free thinking politicians in place.
In so many cases this day in age, we have a battle between history and ecology, either fighting for government funds for a bigger piece of the pie, or to justify one cause over another. To me, the choice is obvious: this is not only an historic railroad, it is one of the most historic in NY state, and it's still there to a great extent. We have the Catskill Preserve, one of the largest swaths of preserved land in the northeast, almost completely surrounding it. We have a lot of trails, and it would be great to have more, but we don't have a lot of railroads, especially not in the Catskills. This is bigger than preserving an historic building, this is showing a bygone way of life, with direct public interpretation and experience. People want this, and Ulster County is trying to downplay how much through manipulative management of media. Their behavior is abhorrent and probably completely illegal, and one day, if this rail line is not saved, history will show how we failed. Let's try not to let that happen.
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