Hike #819; Port Norris to Turkey Point

Hike #819; Port Norris to Turkey Point

12/28/14 Port Norris to Turkey Point with Jennifer Berndt, Lyz Hagenbuch, Ric Giantisco, and "Serious Sean" Dougherty.

The group at Turkey Point

Our next hike would be another point to point in the NJ Perimeter series, this time between where we last left off at Port Norris and Turkey Point. This trip was, from looking at the descriptions of all of them, one of the two I looked forward to the most of the remaining perimeter trips.

The bulk of the NJ perimeter trips remaining at this point are on the southwestern Delaware Bay area, and along the Delaware from Camden to Trenton. Much of these sections require long sections of back road walking because there are no other suitable routes to walk. This section appeared to be a bit different. There were several pathways out along the water, Estuary Enhancement Programs they're called, which are sort of berms set up near the start of the wetlands along the bay. I looked over aerial images tirelessly to find the best routes that were closes to the waterfronts. I did not expect to be able to follow nearly all of what looked walkable due to private land ownership, but we were pleasantly surprised when we found we could walk just about all of the projected route as planned.

NJ Perimeter completed as of this trip

We had last left off in this area in Port Norris, having walked from Thompson's Beach, the long gone bayside community. We met for the hike at Turkey Point, an estuary area down the end of a long road, which used to continue further but was abandoned. It had a nice bridge and viewing platform. It was sort of disappointing that there would only be five of us on this one, just because it turned out so good. I was thinking while  hiking it that this was a trip I could have even posted through Appalachian Mountain Club during my time there.

We shuttled with Lyz and Ric in their vehicle to Port Norris, and parked at the school where we had the previous time. We backtracked on Brown Street following the route we'd finished on the last hike to Memorial Ave and turned left to the cemetery we went by. The Port Norris Cemetery was kind of weird, with a sign above it that read JG SHINN POST NO 6 GAR. No clue what that could have meant. We cut to the left and followed the north side of the cemetery heading east.

Interesting name

It's always interesting walking through cemeteries because each area has it's own odd last names. We exited the cemetery and went right on Temperance Ave, then turned left again on Brown Street. We went right on Maurice Ave at the end, then left on Main Street heading out of town. Main St continued on to become a simple dirt road heading toward the river. This was the first section I was not counting on being able to follow, but knew it would be nice if we could.

Road along the Maurice River near Shell Pile.

The route turned out to be perfect. There were outstanding views of the Maurice River. I was ecstatic to see how beautiful it was. The river was serene and showed no movement. The weather was cloudy, but very nice, and it was warm. We took the road to the right when it hit the riverside and followed it down stream. Excellent views were had along the entire route.

We traveled far south and around a mass of land beside the river where we were afforded views of Matt's Landing, a small spot on the other side of the river we had visited the previous time. We could also see the old railroad grade we'd walked coming into view. It was part of the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines, and originally the Maurice River Branch of the West Jersey Railroad. The road took us out to some sort of port area and continued past a busted up old boat. We all started singing the "Gilligan's Island" theme song because it looked so much like "The Minnow" from the television show.

Historic view of Bivalve on Maurice River

We were now entering the village of Shell Pile, NJ, once the Oyster Capital of the world. It was named for the giant heaps of oyster shells that once lined the area. In it's heyday, Shell Pile and sister village of Bivalve were a huge center of commerce and boats completely filled the Maurice River.

We walked out behind some sort of building associated with boats or something and emerged on a more common road. It felt like we were walking out of someplace we weren't supposed to be, but it was fine.

Now that's an interesting bar...

I knew we were in a hole in the wall type of place when we passed by an old bar (not opened at this time in the morning, if ever) that simply had a plywood sign on a utility pole reading "BAR". I'd not seen the likes of this even in the deepest back woods parts of Sussex County. This was certainly NJ's forgotten town more than anyplace I'd ever been.

Hand's Landing Road came in from the right, in what would have been downtown Shell Pile. I didn't know it at the time, but there would have been houses lining the sides of all of these roads which have now been destroyed.

Old oyster industry

The area also would have been full of oyster industry, but none of these businesses remain in Shell Pile. We continued past a state police barracks (probably located here because there was a huge illegal drag racing operation going on at this site in 2007 where hundreds of people were arrested). We wandered by on Miller Ave from here, and Memorial Ave came in on the right.

Memorial Ave is the flat former right of way of the Cumberland and Maurice River Branch of the Central Railroad of NJ. Probably most who drive it have no idea such a rail infrastructure once existed here. We entered the village of Bivalve next, another spot with little remaining. There were reportedly many homes lining the streets of the town, most of which have vanished today.

Abandoned house, Bivalve NJ

The road arced to the right slighty. We followed it, and passed a tiny little white building. It looked to be simply a shed. We didn't think much of it and moved on to the an intersection where Miller Ave hit Rt 631. The old railroad bed would have gone straight ahead at the corner toward the only remaining oyster business left in Bivalve.

Abandoned church, Bivalve

On the corner stood a haggard looking old abandoned church. It's siding was falling off, and it had boarded windows. They were removed in some areas making it somewhat accessible. There weren't any "no trespassing" signs, and hardly anyone was nearby that would tell us otherwise. We looked around, and began to continue to the left down the road. There was a house near the corner where a lady was apparently selling some random stuff from her house. It was kind of a mess; next to it was another even worse house. It had busted out windows, a bad roof, and curtains blowing in the wind. Lots of animal cages were stacked out front. I thought no one was around, and it was abandoned, and I was taking lots of pictures. Then, a voice called out to my great surprise, "No pictures please!". I was rather shocked. I put the camera down and we hastily walked down the road further.

NOT abandoned house in Bivalve

We turned left into a large lot with footings of old piers out on the Maurice River. We could see across at the old rail line we had walked the previous hike, and the foundations of the oyster industry that used to sit on the shores of the other side. We had tried to get to this on the previous one, but the right of way was too badly overgrown. We continued out to the road and walked onward, with the industry to the right, smashing up shells at the top of a large conveyor.

This was the only oyster industry remaining in Bivalve. The area had long been an area of this trade, and old USGS maps from the late 1800s show that the Central Railroad of NJ as well as the rail line on the other side of the river were both in place by then to serve the area. The business continued on until it's peak in 1955, but declined shortly after because an oyster pathogen known as Haplosporidium nelsoni killed off 90% of their population.

As we walked further beyond the buildings, there were giant crushed shell piles up along the river. My plan was to walk on by it and get on one of the estuary enhancement program trails from the end. I was prepared to have to turn back because the industry wouldn't let us pass.

Such was not the case; a man was walking toward us, with a truck parked nearby. It turns out he runs the place, the last remaining business of it's kind. He told us they had machines that cracked the shells and they sold to several different companies who used the oyster meat. He was very friendly and was genuinely interested in our initiative to hike the entire state perimeter.

We chatted for a while, and were treated to some amazing history of the area. The docks were pointed out to us, and we were told that two of the old railroad cars that serviced the plant were turned into offices. When the gentleman could tell we were into history, he told us more about what had gone on around town.

"Did you see that old shack over there?" he asked us. I thought of the abandoned house, and the shed we'd passed before the church. I asked if it was by the church, and he affirmed that it was the tiny place by the church. We confirmed having seen it, and so he went on to say the town was full of these old buildings, that they were family dwellings of the workers in the industry! He said they were very poor families, mostly black (he prefixed this admission telling us he was not racist), and entire families would live here. It was tougher times when racism was still more commonplace, and although NJ was always a Union state, we were still geographically below the Mason Dixon Line. He went on to tell us that the father and mother would go to work, and they had these little heaters in each place. They'd lock the kids in the houses, (and he said something about securing them in part by using the heater, I couldn't quite follow) and go on off to work. Sometimes, while they were working, the kid(s) would end up setting fire, and because they were locked in the fire departments had a hard time trying to save them. We were told in a very short period of time nine different homes were lost to fires in Bivalve.

Fire at the Maurice River

Apparently fires were somewhat commonplace in the area, as on line resources show it also happened in the industrial buildings as well. The gentleman told us his dad would know the history a lot better than him. We were thankful that he came by and took the time out to talk to us about the history of the area. He acknowledged that it really was run down and quite an odd area. He pointed out for us to go further down the access road, parallel with the shell piles, and said we'd find an access point to the trail at the end of that lot. We thanked him and were on our way past the piles to the access point.

Bivalve Packing Co.

We turned left along the trail which headed further south onto the Maurice River wetlands. We followed it down to the end, where there was a little pool to the left, and the trail simply ended. We then backtracked and took a side path over to a set of stairs leading to an elevated observation platform where we could see the plant we'd walked by as well as down the Maurice River. It was a very nice spot for a little break before moving on.

Overlook area in Bivalve

We descended from the platform and continued onto the pathway heading back in the direction we'd come. The first section of the trail is coated with crushed shells, an interesting and odd surface. The trail curved away from it's parallel Rt 631 a bit and reached a long wooden observation deck that went way out into the wetlands. It said in literature that The Nature Conservancy was to maintain it. The deck was partially destroyed by Sandy and never repaired. We were able to walk it out as far as it was intact but had to turn back.

Trail in Bivalve

The mucky surface of the water and mud had these little trails on it that we assumed might have been made by the terrapins, which were mentioned on the interpretive signs. We headed back out to the trail and continued north. We had to pass behind the busted houses where the lady asked us not to take photos, so I kept the camera down, looking up to snap a couple here or there when no one would notice.

The trail turned to the left, west, and continued along the waterfront. There was an access from Church Street to the north, but we kept on paths that were closest to the wetlands.

The Nature Trail came out at the southern end of Strawberry Ave where there was a long dock going far out onto the water. We headed out to the end of it where we got some more great views of Bivalve area to the east. It was a great spot to just take a little break, relax, and enjoy the scenery. I suppose this was our lunch break. A waterway known as Dickey's Ditch was to the south of us.

Wooden walkway

We continued from here up Strawberry Lane north. The road was dirt at first, but then became paved. We barely had to follow any of this before reaching a small gate on the left side and another berm along the wetlands. There were no signs saying 'no trespassing', and this was just another piece of the estuary enhancement program, which a lot of is set up through local power companies. I was so happy to see that we'd be able to take this section. I had thought it'd be likely to be a road walk.

This path was not developed with any surfacing, it was simply mowed off. We followed it west, near the south end of a little development, then it turned north and west again. There were lovely estuary views along the entire thing. The pathway took us out by a field, and there were some side paths. I tried following some but they just led to the water. We continued to head to the left as closely as we could, and got on yet another section of raised berm along the waterfront. It was blowing me away that so much of this was perfectly accessible and none of it was trespassing.

The trail continued south and crossed over New England Creek, which flows on out into the bay. At an intersection with a farm road, we turned left to follow it out to the end of a peninsula. It was a neat little spot on this east facing swath of land, with a big lovely tree at the end. We stopped here briefly, then moved on back to where we turned off. The trail became sort of a simple farm road heading west. We emerged on Robinstown Road. The trail on the berm continued parallel with the road on the left side by a few feet. It remained mowed.

The road became dirt, and we passed some small commercial place as well as another one of those tiny houses, only this one was in good shape.

Berm pathway near Robinstown Rd

Robinstown Road turned to sand and dirt, but we were still able to stay on the berm path. We followed it as it turned away from the road. The road went right, but the path continued straight for a while. Maps show that it would have continued straight on through for a further distance, but we followed the cleared route to the right. The rest of it to the south looks rather inaccessible and it only gos to where the berm is blown out from water.

A foot bridge led across a wet area to the right as we continued, which would have continued back to the road. We just kept to the mowed berm further on, weaved back and forth, and came out to Berrytown Road. The dirt and sand road led to the left just a short distance out to Hansey Creek. There was a guy there in a truck trying to turn around when we walked out. We must have looked sort of crazy, as I was wearing a bright red blazer and green butterfly collar shirt. He got going and moved on before we could even say hi.

We followed Berryville Road to the right, which took us around some lovely fields. The sand road we were parallel to before came in on the right, and the road became paved. We continued to the north from here. We passed by some farms and soon came out to Rt 553. On the corner was a long abandoned farm house, something we can never resist the urge to explore, especially in such a secluded location.

Abandoned

The house was in rough shape. There were no windows. We could tell it was ready to collapse just about any time. The front door just didn't look feasible to enter. I almost passed it by but opted to try going around the left side where there was a side door. I went in, and found that the entire rear section, two stories, had collapsed into itself. It looked crazy. I turned right and entered the lower level front room, which was in deplorable shape, but could still be walked in. I was surprised to find stairs to the second floor in such a state that I was willing to walk up them.

Abandoned

The stairs were not strong, and I cautioned for only one of us at a time to go up them. I made my way to the top, and was able to look directly out the back doorway into the oblivion of the house. It was obvious that water began leaking through the roof, destroyed the top floor, then the second floor. It looked like a giant gaping open wound in the back part of the house. I walked on through to the front room of the top floor, but would not go anywhere near the center. I kept to the walls, as the entire middle was bowing down. Had I walked on it, I might have fallen through to the first floor. I was surprised again when I saw a Jersey Staircase (curving wooden) leading to the attic. I checked that out too, but there was nothing really to see.

Open house wound

The others checked out the up stairs behind me. With no idea who owns the ruins, we exited rather quickly. We were somewhat in view from the farm at closest distance, and in plain sight from the bigger road. We headed out and turned left on Rt 553 heading northwest. It was amazing that this was the first bit of walking on a larger road we had to do.

My next plan was to get into a section of woods to the left by way of some old roadways. We passed one old roadway on the left that was heavily posted with 'no trespassing' signs. We continued on, and I was thinking "oh well, I guess we can't get into EVERY place I was thinking". There was a sort of level grade parallel with the left side of the road which I thought looked like a railroad right of way. Perhaps a trolley? I couldn't tell for sure, but it was definitely something. None of the historic maps I looked at showed that there was every a railroad there though.

Glades Wildlife Refuge

Soon, we passed signs for NJ Natural Lands Trust. We had reached the boundary of their Glades Wildlife Refuge. A path led us into the woods to a lovely little swamp scene, but we couldn't really get through yet. We followed the road to another old woods road to the left, and we got through. It turned out we had reached the property I had planned to get into after all!

The woods road hadn't been used in a very long time. We made our way along it heading south, and then reached a larger abandoned road. From here, we turned left, heading toward the other abandoned road we weren't able to access before. This road was much wider, and was obviously at one time a public road, but now closed. We could tell however that someone was using it. Fortunately, we saw no one. The road took us through farm fields way out in the woods. We simply remained along the sides of the cut fields, and the woods road continued beyond. Then, we reached an intersection with three woods roads. I opted to take the one furthest to the left, just hoping it didn't lead us out into the estuaries. We got lucky on this one, but the woods road forked again. I again chose the left route, and it led us right out onto the water. We could see that the path would be passable possibly with a large farm tractor leading back to the farms we had passed on Berrytown Road, but there was no way we were walking through. Probably we would get stuck even if it were Summer, and it was private land.

We went back to the previous woods road and followed it to the south. There were some small tributaries crossing, but overall we were able to follow the muddy old road through to a hard right turn. It led us out to cultivated fields, and followed their right side. We passed through another section of woods, then came out to a gate (no signs saying to keep out) and reached Hansey Creek Road. The road dead ends at the creek to the left, and we went right on the sometimes paved, some times sandy road to the right.

The road was very pleasant, and again didn't feel like walking a road because it was mostly unpaved and in nice woods. We passed ruins of another collapsed house on the left, this one in horrible shape, and emerged again on Rt 553. We turned left to follow the road again and passed a beautiful abandoned house on the corner of Rt 614.

Covered Bridge that used to span Dividing Creek

We continued on, 533, Main Street, and crossed over the bridge over Dividing Creek, into the actual settlement of Dividing Creek. It was an interesting little town; it was not nearly as depressed as Bivalve, but it definitely is beyond it's heyday. The opposite side of the Dividing Creek had some businesses, all closed, that were part of some sort of fishing industry.

Small building in Dividing Creek

More small buildings, some looking like houses, others businesses. The area was apparently once an oyster area as well, but must have declined at the same time as Shell Pile and Bivalve. The town was originally settled in 1755 when Baptists set up a meeting house there. The area was a stronghold for Torys during the American Revolution, and during the Civil War the town named one of it's streets "Union Street" to show it's sentiment.

shucking hut

We turned left on Marts Lane, then right on Campbell, and left on Maple Street. This was a great road, as it led through woods in a peaceful route with very few cars and onto a causeway with water on both sides. One side was fish and game commission land, the other Glades Wildlife Refuge. The cloudiness of the day shone an interesting hue on the water as we walked by. I got well ahead of the group and walked on the sandy shore briefly to the right of the road. I waited for everyone to catch up when I got to where the water connected between the two sides of the road.

Wet area

There was some sort of tidal movement between the two sides, as the south side was higher than the north. A pipe of some sort carried water from one to the other. We watched the whirlpool on the south side for a bit, then decided to throw some grass and sticks into it to see if it would suck it down and over to the other side. It did! This was mildly entertaining before we moved on.

At the other side, we found a sandy pull off in which pumpkins had been dumped. I of course had to pick one up and smash it all over the road. Just beyond, Gandy Road went to the left. We followed this for a short while; it goes to a dead end, and turned right from the road onto one of the trails of the Glades Wildlife Refuge. This section was the Maple Street Trail. The trail split in two near where we got on it, and obviously we kept to the one to the south in order to stay closest to the perimeter. The two trails came back together and we continued into woods.

Former homestead ruin on Maple Street Trail

The trail went over a nice little wooden plan footbridge with an estuarine tributary, then entered higher ground woods. We soon came to a former roadway and site of a former house. There was a concrete thing that looked sort of like a giant toilet, and then the foundations of the former house.

Upon closer examination, we could see the utility poles that used to carry electric to the site, which helped me to determine that this structure probably burned down. The one utility pole close to the side of the building bore serious burn marks that would not be consistent with a standard low level forest fire. The burn marks faced only toward where the structure would have been, and all wood and other materials were gone completely. We made our way from here to the north, back to Maple Ave.

We turned left on Turkey Point Road, now not so far from our end point. With the extra day light, we opted to do a little extra NJ perimeter: Bald Eagle Trail. This lollipop loop heads west from the road and to an interior loop around a pond. It was a nice route which had open area and a little woods.

Bald Eagle Trail

When the trail forked, it showed two routes on the map but three or four were actually clear out there. We tried to stick with the more obvious ones. Near the end of the loop, we could look over this strange pond, which must be man made we would think, and came back around toward the east again. There was a short side trail to the left which afforded us some views out across Oranoaken Creek. We could see some houses, and one might have been abandoned. Aerial images show this place at an inaccessible location and abandoned since the 1990s.

We continued back to the trail we followed in; Serious Sean did not join us for the lollipop loop, and he was waiting for us at the end of it. We all continued down Turkey Point Road to the right. We reached the open meadows and estuaries, and crossed the bridge over Weir Creek just before reaching the cars at Turkey Point, with the foot bridge and viewing platform. We finished out the trip by climbing to them and admiring the great view.

By the end of the trip, we had hiked at least 20.2 miles. It didn't really feel to me like we'd gone quite that far, because we ended up finishing relatively early.

Only 18 or so perimeter associated hikes remain, and hopefully they will build in popularity as they reach a close by the end of 2015. I recently did another newspaper interview on the series, and will be on the radio talking about it shortly, within hours of this writing. The experience has been nothing short of amazing and continues to improve.