Hike #1023; Warren Railroad 20th Anniversary
3/25/17 Warren Railroad 20th Anniversary Celebration Hike with Scott Helbing (Tea Biscuit),
The group
The day had finally come for the “big” twentieth anniversary hike. Everything going on in my life leading up to this was absolutely crazy. My stress level was through the roof, and the huge event I wanted to coincide with this was just falling through.
Up until a couple of weeks before, it was looking like our annual party was going to be at a local bar, but it was sprung on me last minute more or less that we’d be charged $700 for a room, which is a ripoff considering we’d be all buying dinner and drinks, and most places weren’t charging for such space.
The underlying stress was that despite having organized these hikes for twenty years, I was transferred back to Spruce Run where over the Summer I’d be forced to work every other weekend. For six years I’d been able to work the schedule out where I could continue the hikes weekly, but it was soon to become a major issue. The guys at work weren’t even talking to me hardly, and I was being made to think I was crazy with all of the insane stuff going on around me.
I had to put all of that behind me for this. This was too important to let it effect me.
Like so many times before, I headed to Port Colden Mall to meet the group and shuttle to the start. I was surprised to see so many near faces this time. One of the more surprising ones were a group of military guys. Lerch gave me a Metrotrails mug of sorts, and I had lots of other stuff going around. Pirate Dennis came and gave me Four Loco (haha).
NYS&W Junction with the Lackawanna
We shuttled to our start point, and others shuttled from Oxford near the central school. We all ended up in the same place we usually start south of the bridge, seen above in a Steamtown archives view.
Former railroad yard today
I greeted everyone and gave a little speech about the history of the area, as well as my own personal connections to all of it. I detailed that in the previous journal on the twentieth anniversary, which can be read here:
https://www.facebook.com/notes/mke-helbing/hike-1022-warren-railroad/1535532209791968/
Our starting point was about where the New York, Susquehanna, and Western Railroad used to break off of the Lackawanna main line to head north. Rt 46 mostly obliterated that to the north.
NYS&W alogn what is now Rt 46, from Fred Heilich's collection
I was really surprised to see some people there. Of course, my old friend and attorney Conrad was back from hike #1. To my great surprise, Eric Schneider came up and surprised me to attend. He came all the way up from Baltimore for it, which was great.
The other ones from hike #1 couldn’t make it. Andrew Hughes lives down south now. Jenna Marques just had a baby. I couldn’t talk Shayne into going. Derek Baker had work he couldn’t get out of.
It was disappointing that many of my more local friends couldn’t make it, but there were still so many to show up that it really didn’t matter much. It went great.
Delaware Station historic view from Steamtown Archives
We started by heading south through Delaware, then to the Clarence Road overpass site where we get our regular group photo at the old bridge abutment. The arm guys came up to me and said “In true army style, we’re going to lead the way, just show us the start of the trail!”.
Delaware Station site today
I laughed pretty hard. “No you won’t!” I said. “There’s no way you’ll find it!” After getting over my amusement, I told them I’d help direct them so they could go ahead without us, but I wanted them to stay for the group photo.
Historic postcard image of Delaware Station
Once we had the photo together, I went to them specifically and told them to go to www.metrotrails.org and then to go to the resource library. I instructed them that the bottom right corner should be a long distance trails link. In it, they found a basic guide to the Warren Railroad prepared by Matt Davis and myself at http://www.metrotrails.org/Metrotrails/Warren_Railroad.html
Historic postcard image of Delaware Station
They thanked me and went ahead on their way. I found out later from Rich Kowal, who was near the front of the group, that these folks stopped in and had some drinks at the Oxford fire house, and some girl was all over them trying to get them to stay! They did both tunnels, and the only trouble they had with the guide was finding the north portal of Oxford Tunnel. Rich pointed it out to them, and they were on their way to finish quite early.
Blasphemy!
We walked on along the rail bed to Smiddy’s Deli, where we’ve been going since 1997. We always get a warm welcome from the owners, and they graciously let the crazy group use their restroom.
I had really wanted to try to keep the group together, but no one wanted to wait for everyone to get done in the restroom, so most the group went ahead without me. I didn’t get to talk nearly enough to Conrad and Teresa, or his mom Mrs. G on this one, as they powered ahead. I got to catch up with Eric a bit, which was great. He also finally got to meet Dan Lurie, his favorite of my friends he’d never met because he’s just so ingeniously funny.
It really didn’t take all that much time to get to the Manunka Chunk Tunnel. I didn’t do the Shrub of Might thing because the group was too big, and we’d done it on the previous Thursday.
Historic images of Manunka Chunk Tunnels and junction from above
Thankfully, much of the group was held up waiting for me at the mouths of the tunnels. I wanted to be sure to direct those who didn’t want to go through the tunnels over the top, while those going through would go with me.
Manunka Chunk Tunnels
This has always been one of the highlights of the hike. The former junction between the Belvidere Delaware Railroad and the Lackawanna, a double tunnel through the mountain in Vass Gap with a perpetual drainage problem. The creek, Catherine’s Run, flows through the tunnel today as much as it does around it. In the days of the railroad, a wooden trough followed by a man made waterway carried the creek high above the railroad. In the later years, it appears it was trenched out a different way nearer the tracks, and then directed beneath on a bridge.
Historic image showing Manunka Chunk Tunnels and station
There were always floods in the region, and I often mention the Pumpkin Flood of October 1903, but one of the most devastating, most photographed was the Flood of 1913, where pretty much the entire junction and rail yard were washed out, with only one track intact.
Manunka Chunk Tunnel, Flood of 1913
When the firs group started heading over the top, we started on our way through. Some already went ahead in front of me because they were getting impatient. I got pretty quickly past most everyone. Much of the ice that had been in the tunnel the previous Thursday had melted.
1963 view of Manunka Chunk Tunnels
Once I came out the other side, I was treated to a rather touching surprise. Lerch had gathered the group and instead of going to the path, they all lined up around the outside of the top of the tunnel and the cut to sing “Happy Birthday” to me as I emerged.
Manunka Chunk Tunnel today
We continued on through the cut to the path that makes it’s way up to the little falls on Catherine’s Run, where we had taken a break back on the first hike (and Jenna fell in). I thought that the weather condition and amount of snow was amazingly similar to that of the first hike.
Historic Flood of 1913 view
I felt at a loss for what to say during a lot of this thing. I still feel at a loss writing the journal for it. Twenty years is a really long time to commit to anything, especially consistently walking such long distances and still getting people to come out.
Historic image of Manunka Chunk Cut in the Flood of 1913
We reconvened on the other side and carefully headed up along Catherine’s Run, then crossed the same on the plank bridge to the fields of Beaver Brook Wildlife Management Area.
View during the Flood of 1913 from the Bel Del line
The boards are likely those used for the flume system that was once there, and they’re so substantial that they haven’t given out yet.
Historic image of Manunka Chunk Tunnel
Once in the fields, we turned right to make our way across Upper Sarepta Road and regained the railroad bed. It was a nice, long easy walk from here toward Bridgeville.
Manunka Chunk Tunnel
Lots of silliness ensued between Red Sean, Lerch, Justin, Brittany, and Crystal. At one point, Crystal had a plastic banana and Red Sean took a bite out of it, and broke it. It resulted in a brief “ginger war”.
Historic Manunka Chunk Tunnel scene
In the past, we often used to stay right on the railroad right of way south of the tunnel, but that was not going to go over well with much of the group, because it’s walking either in water or through weeds almost the entire time. I might do it again one of these days, but this was definitely not the time.
I had forgotten to mention that on the hike the previous Thursday, we met a gentleman who was walking the rail grade back to his home in Oxford, and we invited him on the big hike. Sure enough, he came out for it and did great! Just another one of those funny things that happens. I’m sure there are tons of other moments between Manunka Chunk and Bridgeville that I can’t even remember at the moment (that’s why the ability to comment is great).
Ginger war
The group remained segmented for most of the remainder of the hike, although we convened for a bit when we got to Bridgeville and Hot Dog Johnny’s.
We crossed over Sarepta Road, followed by Hope Crossing Road, and soon reached the old Bridgeville Station, which had sadly burnt very recently. Lots of the group was checking that out, while others went further on ahead. Just after, we crossed over Rt 519 and made our way toward the sand quarry.
I think some of the group made their way out to Rt 46 rather than cross the sand quarry area, but we had no problem going across. The path started up on the other side and took us right back down to the rail bed as it always had.
1963 image of Bridgeville Station
Once on the other side, we were soon on the slope above Hot Dog Johnny’s. We headed down to get a bit to eat here, which looked just nuts. The line was already out the front of the place, and it was pretty much all Metrotrails people.
Bridgeville Station now
While there, we met up with Will Bullivant, who I’ve known for years, and my grandfather knew years before that because he lived across the street from him. I used to spend a lot of time with his daughters and hang around at his house when I was about 17. He later gave us tours at Millbrook Village and at the Asbury Graphite Mill.
1964 image in Buttsville
A lot of the group was pretty much done by the time they got to the hot dogs. I went down in back and got in the river as I recall, and a lot of us sat by it for a little bit.
Former LHR line passing beneath Lackawanna's Pequest span
I think I saw a few other people I knew there at the time, but I honestly can’t remember now. A lot of the group continued ahead yet again, and I stayed and ate a few hot dogs.
When we headed back, we went up the slope directly and then followed the rail bed out to the east across Green Pond Road. I forget if anyone went and climbed up that silo this time or not, but the rest of us continued on regardless.
We soon crossed over Rt 46 and then passed over the Pequest Viaduct, a three arch concrete span that replaced an earlier stone one. I often wonder if the original stone could be under that, because why would they build a new bridge and interrupt service for so long? There is no right of way parallel with it, so it’s possible I think.
Below is the former Lehigh and Hudson River Railroad, which was torn out in 1986. Much of that is now a trail, informally like the Lackawanna grade is, through Pequest Wildlife Management Area. We continued on it through a beautiful section out to the former site of Pequest Furnace, where a furnace railroad spur broke off.
Pequest Furnace
Pequest Furnace was built because of nearby iron mines, and to supplement the work being done at nearby Oxford Furnace. This one was much more short lived, disappearing sometime around the turn of the century.
We continued on to the south, and eventually crossed over Pequest Road. From there, the right and left turn led us to the paved trail portion of the rail bed, or right next to the rail bed. We were still moving along at a pretty good pace.
We soon emerged on Lower Denmark Road in Oxford, where the trail has to follow the road due to private property on it above.
Postcard view of later Oxford Furnace
The town of Oxford dates back to the 1700s. Actually, what is now known as Hazen, closer to Belvidere, was originally Oxford, and the area we know as Oxford was known as Oxford Furnace. The names switched after a short while; there was even a town in between known as Pittengerville, which we know as part of Oxford today.
Historic image of Oxford Station
The Oxford Furnace was built in 1741, and is believed to be the third mined iron furnace in the US. It was also the very first hot blast furnace, which employed a bellows.
Oxford was on the map from early on for the iron industry, and so it had to be a stop for the railroad when it arrived in 1856.
Historic image at Oxford Station
It was in the area of Lower Denmark Road that the earlier 1856 right of way separated from the later 1862 right of way, from after the Van Nest Gap Tunnel (Oxford Tunnel) was completed. It used a temporary track around the mountains while the tunnel was under construction.
The group at the liquor store in Oxford
A lot of the group was still at Mountain Valley Liquors in Oxford when we arrived, and others were moving on or cutting out early. Not many were interested in going through the tunnel at this point.
I went in, but apparently the clerk in the place was not happy with the group due to some sort of events that happened before I arrived. Who knows?
Historic Oxford Tunnel image
I got a phone call from Ron Lozowski, who I hear joined up with the group for a bit, but I never saw him on the hike. Some of the group photos I see look like a totally different group than the one I was with!
Historic image of the Gauntlet Track Oxford Tunnel
I don’t even recall who went through the tunnel with me at this point. I am pretty sure Red Sean did, as well as Matt I think? I was feeling far too happy at this point to remember, but I think Matt and I were more genuinely happy than the rest.
Historic late 1960s view of Oxford Tunnel
The group shrunk quite a lot at Oxford, and Shelly, who didn’t think she would make it two miles, made it over ten, which was awesome!
We made our way to the mouth of the tunnel, and I remember monkey barring through the fallen trees to get to the portal.
The abandoned tunnel before the plaque was removed
I recall coming out the other side and continuing to walk through the water. Several were still behind me at this point, and we waited up when we got to the old building foundation at the other side. I believe Lyz and Ric both went through with me, and they are always good about helping people who can’t do so well through the muck.
East portal of Oxford Tunnel historic view
Once through the other side, it was an easy shot to Washington. The right of way was kind of clear, and one of our friends had been out hacking away at the brush on it so it wasn’t nearly as bad as it might have been.
Once we got to the former bridge site at Jackson Valley Road, I think several got rides out. Those of us who continued climbed the other side and had to walk through a mess of mud that filled the right of way.
The mud dissipated shortly after the high school, but the weeds were still worse than it was back when I was in school there. No one really goes back there any more, and it should really be a public trail (it already is state park land).
Original Easton-Morristown Turnpike underpass, now Rt 57, replaced with concrete
The path emerged at the junction with the former spur to Warren Lumber, and the existing spur to the former American Can. We followed the tracks onward from here to the Rt 31 overpass, and then climbed down to go to Dicola’s Pizza.
Because we went there on the first hike, it was a tradition to follow through on and go again. I went in and ate a bit, then bought a large pie to have sent to the after party. I asked others to contribute whatever they wanted, and I don’t think anyone bought more! I know Brittany brought sandwiches and cookies though.
Historic view of Washington station and yard
We left Dicola’s and headed back up onto the tracks. A lot of people just opted to walk Rt 57 the entire way back. I think only a few of us went up onto the rail bed, and by the time we got to Port Colden, I recall it only being Tea Biscuit and I.
Historic view of the Washington Yard
It seemed appropriate. Tea Biscuit started coming out with us on these in April of 2000, and there were so many times it was just the two of us continuing on while everyone else in the group of us had quit.
We struggled a bit to get up the slope across from Port Colden Manor where we used to have a path down, but we got through. We headed to the back pasture, where my former step dad Mark and my brother Bobo live, and behind where my house burned down in 2010, to start our camp fire.
Campfire hootenanny
Even though I couldn’t have the “major celebration” I had wanted it to be, this was a really fitting thing. On the first hike, my friends and I rented the movie “Clue” and watched it in my bedroom. My mom made cupcakes or brownies or something. It was very simple.
This time, we were all there around the fire, and Jack played amazing guitar as we sang along. We could still do something else another time for sure, but this was probably the right thing.
Jillane and many other friends showed up for the camp fire party, and we ended up staying until almost sun up.
Jack playing around the fire
I really don’t know what else to say about the culmination of twenty years. It was the anniversary hike like any other year, but it was a milestone year.
I hear people say “Twenty years ago...” about so many different things, and it’s always felt like an antiquated thing. I still feel no different, but trees I saw on that rail bed as saplings are now thirty or more feet tall.
I was thinking much of the day of Bob Seger’s “Like a Rock”, but didn’t bring it up because I thought it sounded cliche. The rather muted last verse where he sings “ Twenty years now
Where'd they go? Twenty years... I don't know”.
Rather than get caught up in that lyric, I should probably have considered the others: “And I stood arrow straight-Unencumbered by the weight-Of all these hustlers and their schemes-I stood proud, I stood tall-High above it all-I still believed in my dreams
Twenty years now-Where'd they go?-Twenty years-I don't know-Sit and I wonder sometimes-Where they've gone
And sometimes late at night-When I'm bathed in the firelight-The moon comes callin' a-ghostly white-And I recall-I recall
Like a rock. standin' arrow straight-Like a rock, chargin' from the gate-Like a rock, carryin' the weight-Like a rock”
Despite all of the bad stuff that had been going on in my life, I have more extraordinary events consistently than many. I see amazing places and meet amazing people, both of which introduce amazing unheard of stories to the already unparalleled mix of experiences.
Butt shot
Regardless of how we celebrate, these experiences are worth celebrating. They are overall positive, rebellious but peaceful, obnoxious but lovable, ridiculous but meaningful manifestations of life. They just happen to be gift wrapped in the form of planned hikes that I want to do, and anyone who can walk so far is invited.
The hikes started out in lieu of a party for my 17th birthday 20 years ago. My best gift has been the company of all of these wonderful people, and the beauty of it is that it’s a gift we can all share.
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